Under stairs drawer/shelves

4 years ago

Hi all. This is all very exciting. I've started making a frame under the stairs for three slide-out drawers hidden behind shelving. The first pic is what I'm aiming for, the rest is progress made today. Thanks to all for advice so far. I've learned that angled brackets are the bodger carpenter's friend. And that nothing is square in my house. I've used framing timber from Wickes so far (£15) . And I bought 3 sets of 90cm drawer runners (heavy duty, 80kg rated for £150). Most of the rest will be made of mdf (which I haven't bought yet, but won't be surprised if it costs around £100).
All advice gratefully received!

Featured Answer

Sam Potter
Original Author

4 years ago

Well that's done. Phew.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (61)

Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Sunday evening update on the understairs drawers.
Patrina
4 years ago
Coming along nicely :-)
Related Discussions
What shall I put on this wall?
Q
Comments (4)
You could do a bench with a top that opened for storage. This way family & guests have a place to sit and take off their shoes or boots when entering. You could also put hooks on the wall above the bench for a place to hang coats or keys. A second option could be a sideboard or dresser. This would also provide storage and you could put decorative accessories on the top of it and hang a nice picture on the wall.
...See More
under stair space
Q
Comments (4)
If it's done smartly, shelves and doors won't necessarily make the space feel closed in. You could have a built-in seating/platform with a couple of shelves above, or all shelves for different functions, maybe a small home office...? Or you could have a slim mirror (in the space between the door and top of stairs, and then just hooks for the little one(s) coats, rucksacks, etc. Or if you want storage, you could have cupboards recessed so they don't close off the front. Or, why not a small fancy bar? :))
...See More
Help with a boring bedroom
Q
Comments (23)
Adding width BEHIND THE BED - with a headboard (which doesn't have to be a "headboard"; it could be fabric, collection of mirrors, collection of pictures, a farm gate!, small chairs or stools) across the entire width. Matching bedside tables/bookcases/chests/ with LAMPS - useful storage for extra books, extra bedding, etc. CURTAINS always warm up a room. People will always feel colder away from home - provide an extra blanket or duvet to add to the bed. I notice there is no WARDROBE. Not really necessary for overnight guests (provide hooks on the back of the door) but useful for storing your out-of-season coats, etc. There is plenty of room behind the door. Buy one on eBay and paint it to suit your colour scheme.
...See More
Need help on decorating wall in entrance
Q
Comments (1)
Sorry ! Here are some pictures to give you an idea of the entrance
...See More
Carolina
4 years ago
Wow! So much storage :-) Looks really good
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Carolina, once it's done hopefully the storage will all be concealed and it'll just look like built-in bookshelves. I'm going to add rails to the shelves so stuff doesn't fall off when they are pulled out. I'm starting to think about how to divide the storage up now. The only things I definitely want to store are my Henry hoover and the ironing board. I already have coat storage but could make the utility neater by storing them here. Shoes aren't really an issue as we store them in our rooms. I do need DIY equipment storage so that will go in somewhere but not sure if shelves or some sort of peg board would be best.
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
This weekend I finished the monstrous large drawer (for coats and the ironing board) and fitted shelves. There's some sanding and filling to do, beading and architrave to add and a decision to make about the vertical gaps between the units. Do I try to fill them with more vertical framing timber or let them stay? I'm really hoping next weekend will see this all finished, and painted. I'm thinking about funky wallpaper or an accent colour at the back of the shelves.
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
Great job Sam! It looks very professional and almost as good as what we do... :-)

Mount Park, London · More Info
Carolina
4 years ago
Fab! Seriously, it looks so good from the front. And so practical too.
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Brandler, and ooh , those cupboards are so sleek! I didn't even see them at first! Joinery is fun. I'm extremely surprised mine have ended up looking as good as they do because I'm a notorious bodger. Though these drawers have dragged on for several weekends now so I will be glad when I can move on to the next thing, and I totally get why someone would pay a professional to get it done in a few days!
Can I ask your professional opinion on how to finish mine? I've got vertical gaps between the three set of shelves/drawer fronts, plus a gap above and below.
I could stick/pin beading on the shelf fronts which would cover the edge of the mdf and project out into the gap. I could add more vertical framing timber in the gap, with or without beading on the shelves.
Then on the slope of the wall I could add architrave, or leave a clean edge. And below the shelving I thought maybe I could install some skirting board, but fix it like a kitchen plinth, so it is removable to get at the innards/underneath the drawers when necessary.
Oh and I'm going to block the wonky hole above the fridge. What was the builder even thinking?
Any thoughts?
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Carolina,
Definitely my most successful diy endeavour so far (or at least joint first with the living room cornice porridge restoration). I'm very happy with it. But also less happy with the work my builder did last year, now I can see the flaws in it, eg wonky edge above fridge.
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Sam, having had a look at all the photographs that you have posted I would suggest the following to finish this installation and also to make sure that it lasts a long time with minimal risk of problems with the tracks, etc.

1. Make sure that all of the uprights are firmly fixed especially to the floor and walls, etc.

2. Put some blocks under the rail that goes from front to back that has the track fitted to it. The reason for this is that the section of wooden support here is quite small and when your units are full there could be a lot of weight to it which could cause deflection to the track and or rail. Dont forget to fix into these blocks using screws and if possible have a screw that is long enough to go into the floor using a small rawl plug.

3. I can only see two screws at the end of the shelves. Personally I would have at least three and maybe even four. Again this is a support issue and I am assuming that you also used adhesive.

With regards to the gaps, we would have designed this somewhat differently in that we would have put the uprights flush with the staircase "wall" and used longer tracks to include the vertical frontal unit. By the way, make sure that you have enough fixings from the front section to the rear section as again this may carry quite a weight.

So as to a possible solution to the gaps I would firstly never fit anything to the units/shelf fronts as they will almost certainly be knocked or damaged. What I would do is to install two uprights flush with the unit facades and a thin section of wood running along the length of the underside of the staircase.

With regards to the unit adjacent to the fridge, again I would use an upright and then decide whether or not to install a filler panel behind it to close off the edge of the units.

With regards to what wood I would use for the uprights and trim I personally would use MDF as it takes a paint finish well. Also with regards to the trim, this is a case of wood meeting plaster and so I would use an acrylic sealant that can be painted. You can also use the acrylic sealer to the gaps between the wood joints although a wood sealer would be preferably but maybe a cost that you do not want to bear.

I hope that this helps, but if you have any other question then please feel free to write to Chris at cmanuel@brandler.london
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
By the way Sam, have you thought about fitting a door/doors to cover your fridge/freezer??

It is not an integrated one, however you may be able to get away with fixing the doors to the edge of the fridge/freezer doors using an integrated fridge kit.

You could hang these doors from a thin frame into which you can install kitchen door hinges. The wood section can be thin and you can fix into the wall on the side.

Just a thought ... :-)
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Brandler London, thank you SO much. Your post is my bible for next weekend! I knew you'd include, 'well I wouldn't have done it like that'!
I'll start by bringing the runners and uprights forwards to the front face of the staircase wall. It will mean the ends of the drawers will overhang the ends of the rails at the back, but presumably that's preferable as the backs are lighter than the fronts. You live and learn!
And re glue, my bf will love that. He's been nagging me about not using it. In fact I did use it for the big beast drawer, because the way it's constructed with a full height side to the drawer box meant I couldn't get many screws into the left side of the shelf unit. The smaller ones seemed pretty sturdy without it and I decided it probably wouldn't make much difference. Tbh I might not go back and fix this now, as I'd presumably have to reposition each screw, do a new guide hole etc, and the thought makes me want to cry, but I'll be sure to tell him he was right ;-)
Re blocks under the rails and extra screws in the shelves, I'll definitely do that.
And good to know about not using beading fixed to shelf fronts. That'll save me money too.
Thanks so much again for being so generous with your skills and advice.
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
lol... it is not a case of your way is wrong, but one where we always plan for the worst case scenario... :-)

Your solution of bringing the runners and uprights forward to the front face makes a lot of sense and this will leave the unit free of the danger of damage due to weight.

With regards to the screws, don't bother relocating any of the existing ones but I would add another in between the two existing.

To be honest with you, what you have done was very ambitious and well executed for a first time project of this type! All I have suggested are some tweaks to make the end result more stable and give you a cleaner finish...
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
And re fridge. I hadn't thought of this, no. I do think integrated fridges look nice, but all the ones I've opened have stiff and heavy feeling doors, and function wins over aesthetics on this for me. My sister's integrated fridge actually moves when it's opened. I open the fridge a surprisingly high number of times a day.
However I do have some ideas. Apart from closing the gaps around it, I might spray paint it to match or contrast with the walls, or possibly apply a printed decorative 'wrap' or sticky backed plastic to make it look like it's carved from marble or graffitied. Or I might even go full steampunk with it. It couldn't look much worse so I've got nothing to lose! Plus it was off freecycle so I have no problem vandalising it.
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
the issue with doors to integrated fridges is often a case of either poor installation or poor quality hinges. Mind you the steam punk finish sounds like fun! :-)
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
I might not go as far as this...
pmasmith3
4 years ago
Looks amazing!
Gabby Wong
4 years ago
Wow Sam!!! You must feel so proud of yourself, it looks incredible... I’ve been following from the sidelines and I’m blown away by your imagination and determination to have achieved this!
PRO
OnePlan
4 years ago
Lovely job Sam ! :-)
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks guys, it was a bit of an epic project for me. I learned so much though, and the advice and encouragement on here kept me going!
AMB
4 years ago
Looks great Sam. Well done!
Patrina
4 years ago
Well done sam looks great x
Milly Moo
4 years ago
Certainly not a bodger. Could do with you in my house. Congrats!
Victoria
4 years ago
Looks amazing Sam!
kazzh
4 years ago
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><md>What a fantastic job! Your ingenuity is inspirational , so enjoyed following your plans and progress on your projects. Thank you for sharing.
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
Nicely done Sam; great job!
Jules Mc
4 years ago
These are fantastic. I know they've been a labour (of love??!!) but can you imagine, what they would have cost to have had made bespoke? Plus the satisfaction of having DIY'd them. So impressive?!!
Carolina
4 years ago
I agree. Very impressive and they look fab.
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Brandler. And thanks so much for your invaluable advice. I'm really happy how it turned out, though I need a rest from heavy slabs of mdf and scary saws! I won't be applying for a job with you anytime soon! Just waiting for my fridge sticker to arrive...
E D
4 years ago
Haha Sam, expresses perfectly how you, rightly, must be feeling. :-)
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Jules, yes I agree re cost. The bloke who (badly) sanded my floors said he'd do it for 900. I'm glad I didn't go with him as I reckon they would've been abandoned halfway through (like my floors). Just for info my costs were £310(ish) in materials, mostly from Wickes (the runners were from ironmongery direct) and broken down like this:

£100 MDF
£20 framing timber
£150 runners
£20 trim
£10 screws and drill bit
£10 decorators caulk, grab adhesive, wood glue

Tools used were a circular saw (scary), a hand saw, and electric drill, sander and screwdriver.
A workmate, clamps or a table saw would have been useful. If I did it again I'd definitely try to acquire these first. But tbh I don't want to do it again ;-)
And I only started using a face mask halfway through which was stupid of me. I'll never work with mdf again without one.
Next mdf project is a built-in wardrobe. But I think I need a couple of months off mdf first...
Jonathan
4 years ago
When you come to do the wardrobe see if anyone is getting rid of any existing wardrobes. Reuse the carcasses, discard the doors but have new plain MDF doors cut to size at the builders merchants (plus fillers for each end)
Just a cheat I have done in the past and with a coat of paint and new handles they have looked great.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fitted-7-door-bedroom-wardrobes-light-maple-silver-handles-good-condition/153504349143?hash=item23bd927bd7:g:840AAOSwAmFc7CqZ
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Top tip Jonathan. Though not sure this would work for an alcove wardrobe unless the wardrobe I start with is the right width in the first place. I'm hoping the alcove will provide back and sides and all I have to do is fit doors at the front and a lid. But I haven't really thought too much about it yet. I'm going to paint my kitchen (your suggested colour scheme), fiddle with some under cabinet lighting and watch other people fit railings for a while instead.
Jonathan
4 years ago
I think you deserve some time off manual labour.
When you do come to do the wardrobes you will probably find your alcoves are not deep enough to hang clothes in which is why I suggested using an existing wardrobe which would build it forward.
Surjit Johal
4 years ago
You are very clever and I’m sure it will work out great Rachel
Surjit Johal
4 years ago
I meant to write Sam .... apologies
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
I'll probably put some more photos up if/when I get round to organising some internal storage for the drawers. Otherwise this is them all done and dusted, with the wall painted and and my fridge rebranded. The plaster, where it wasn't redone by the builders when they created the understairs hole, is in pretty bad nick and will need fixing at some point, but I painted it (complete with heinous cutting in) cos I couldnt bear living with bare plaster and Xmas wrapping as wallpaper any longer.
E D
4 years ago
Bet you’re feeling ‘smug’ now! :-)
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
The smug has worn off! I feel a bit frustrated. I'm definitely higher on ambition than energy at the moment. I painted the chair during the week, and that was fun, but anything more ambitious feels way too much. I need to get my mojo back for painting the whole room, sorting out the door, finishing the table and moving on to the rest of the house. Everything takes so long when you've only got weekends. I just want to say the magic word and have everything done!
AMB
4 years ago
It looks lovely Sam and I can see any dodgy plaster! I like that you have painted the fridge too.
rachelmidlands
4 years ago
Meant to say this a lot earlier on but Wowwee! You’ve done a fantastic job Sam. I love it! Think you’ve earned a break and put your feet up for a little bit:) Really love the chair and parrot/birds on the chandelier....awesome!
Patrina
4 years ago
Sam I bet you are feeling proud as punch. Looks fantastic :-)
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Patrina, how's your utility coming on?
Patrina
4 years ago
Paused at the moment Sam :-(
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
You'll get there Patrina.
Jonathan
4 years ago
https://www.wayfair.co.uk/home-decor/pdp/kult-kanvas-banksy-umbrella-girl-decal-vinyl-wall-sticker-kltu1507.html?piid=14727141#58xmd8xocbt-3

I bet you already have something to put on your lovely freshly painted wall- but if not what about a wall decal?
Sam Potter
Original Author
4 years ago
Funnily enough I was just thinking about kitchen artwork. My sis got custody of decorating with big Banksys so I'm not allowed any of that ;-)
I do like this artist https://www.google.com/search?q=Georgia+Cox+artist&client=ms-android-vf-gb-revc&prmd=isnv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiY_-zgvsriAhUoRBUIHaHeCoEQ_AUoAXoECA8QAQ&biw=360&bih=657
But originals might be a bit much for the kitchen (and my budget!)
AMB
4 years ago
Ooo, I love that artist's work!
Alix W
4 years ago
Late to the party, but I love this, though you’re putting my DIY skills to shame. Soooper impressed, Sam as ever. I might have to get that fridge sticker, too.