I've had a look at free offerings for floor planning software. It depends on the level you want to go to. Sweethome3D http://www.sweethome3d.com/ is truly free because it's open source (no fees if you want to draw more than one plan etc). I've found I can get reasonably detailed with it from layout perspective but I doubt it would be good enough for a drawings for a building permit (although I'm not certain of this). As a graphic designer you'll have an affinity for graphics software. If you want to be able to draw more detailed drawings Id take the time to learn Sketchup. I know some architects use this as their software of choice. I'm definitely with you @Jason Carter - the only way to really control your budget is to plan ahead and choose and price everything that you can think of before you break ground. Otherwise you're in a situation where you have to make quick compromises during the build which leads to mistakes etc. In my work we use requirements tracking tools. I think it would be really helpful to communicate to the contractors exactly what is going to go on in the room - why the extra outlets are there and in the position they're in. That way they have a deeper understanding of why the specs are the way they are and they don't make decisions that detract from the design - they might even come up with suggestions that support the ideas behind the designs.

It's difficult to provide decent advice with limited information. Issues to consider: - access to the front door of new house, is it level or on a low slope? - is there level access from all external doors? i.e. no steps up or down. Do you need a ramp building with handrails? - is there a toilet downstairs? Do you need mobility aids like grab rails and emergency call systems? - doors need to be wide enough to get through. Assuming you use a wheelchair you may need wider doors. - is the new house on a single storey only? Bungalow? Obviously better if it is as there are no stairs to navigate. - steps and stairs generally - try to avoid properties with these or make sure they are limited or have a low rise and large tread area. - age of new house. The newer it is the more likely it is to more suited for accessibility. The older it is the harder it will be. New houses have access requirement regulations to comply with. - do you need an accessible kitchen? Larger space needed with low worktops for wheelchairs? Not sure if this is any help but maybe it is..?

The sizes you mentioned for the flooring: 11mm or 8mm are not "widths" of the plank. It is the THICKNESS of the plank. Technically the thicker the laminate the "nicer" the laminate. Small rooms do well with lighter flooring. And please do not use laminate in the kitchen. It won't survive for very long. If you are going to do it, please purchase enough laminate to REMOVE AND REPLACE the kitchen TWICE. That way you can have the same floor throughout the house even if the kitchen is severely damaged....and the potential is VERY high that laminate in a kitchen will NOT survive a rental situation. Remember: in a rental, the life of a floor = 7 years on average. Laminate in a kitchen averages 3 years. That's why you want to buy enough laminate to install the kitchen TWICE....it's the only way you can get it to "live" for the full 7 years. Have fun.

If I understand correctly you are adding extra floor by bay window feature ? Have you thought as out a window seat to hide the floor issue, can give you more storage and a really useful seating feature (great with kids)