Other spaces
Cupboard storage beneath the sink is generous, despite being shorter than standard height. The long draining board is a practical touch and there’s plenty of room for ceiling hanging at the far end, where there’s not much space for anything else to go. The whole room is also brightly lit with well-positioned spots, making the low ceiling almost a bonus
Don’t be daunted by dimensions A snug often requires less space than other rooms, as you’re usually only using it for relaxing. Consider adding a stud wall to a larger room to create a peaceful den that you can retreat to. If you’re worried it will feel too restricted, the size of your doorway is key. A wider entrance will add flexibility to the room and a feeling of space when needed. Here, RUHL STUDIO Architects has installed a bookcase wall, which provides a cavity for a sliding pocket door.
The new laundry room is cheerful and spacious. “I love the potential in a smaller space. You don’t need a big budget and it’s a good chance to do something interesting,” Alessia says. “We had some fun in here, like with the penny mosaics on the floor.” The colour palette inspiration came from a building she’d admired and photographed in Montreal. “It was this beautiful pale grey and ivory stone and all the trim and mouldings were senape [Italian for mustard]. I just loved the way it felt,” Alessia says.
Just beyond the dining table is a new, bespoke sliding glass door into the kitchen. Originally, the door had encroached into the kitchen, meaning you had to shut cupboard doors to open it.
Do be creative Shoes don’t have to only go on shoe racks. This fabulous bespoke MDF storage wall divides a hallway from a living room, and is used to hold everything from high heels to books and framed photos. Painting shelving a dark, dramatic colour (here Down Pipe by Farrow & Ball) gives it a more elegant effect that’s smarter and less workaday.
uck in some trays Avoid a pile of paperwork building up on your desk by incorporating trays into your office storage. The design here is super-efficient, as the cabinet shelves have each been fitted with individual trays. The owner can organise their paperwork into categories and simply pull each tray out when they need to find a particular item. If building them in isn’t an option, slot tiered letter trays onto a shelf for a similar effect.
Hide cupboards behind shelves Why have one storage idea, when you can have two? This playful solution combines a display cabinet with a secret cupboard behind. The designers cut the usual depth of the cupboard in half, which allowed them to make the door large enough for display shelves. It opens up to reveal shelving for those items the owners don’t want on display.
Utilise low areas Got a raised area with a small space below it? You’d be surprised how much storage you can fit in there. This platform at the end of a staircase is the ideal spot for shoe storage – three simple drawers have been built in with angled ledges inside for easy shoe stacking.
Utility room 5 Drying space and ventilation “Do you have enough space to hang washing if required, or could you house a dryer close to the washing machine?” Lorraine says. She also highlights the need for space to load and unload washing. “I love a pull-out shelf to sort and fold fresh laundry,” she says. The idea illustrated here shows a space-saving and discreet way to add a clothes horse to a utility cupboard. However, you’d need to ensure a cabinet like this wouldn’t get damp. Brian recommends a two-pronged solution. “We’ve previously put an electrical tube heater in the base of a cupboard, controlled manually, and an exhaust [extractor] fan to get the air out,” he says. In a utility room, he suggests underfloor heating – controlled independently to other areas in the house – and a ceiling-mounted, pull-down drying rack. “If you do a lot of washing and drying with the machines in almost constant use, a dehumidifier is a good idea,” he adds. “It means your extractor won’t have to work as hard.” Even without drying clothes to manage, a laundry room or cupboard should have at least passive ventilation, Brian says, such as “a window trickle vent or a grille in a door”.
What are the best materials to use? “If a building is erected under Permitted Development rights, there’s freedom with the choice of materials,” Angus says. “If Planning Permission is required, there may be more limitations in terms of materials.” He says choice will be determined by whether you want to complement the original building or create something different, and suggests you consider the lifespan, cost, embodied energy and maintenance of the materials. Wood is a popular choice for outbuildings, say our experts. “Timber is a natural, renewable material; it’s quicker to build and more forgiving to changes,” Andrew says. “Above all, it’s aesthetically softer and tends to fit into garden and rural surroundings.” “Some timber, such as cedar and larch, can be left ’natural’ to weather, so won’t require repeated maintenance, such as painting,” Angus says. “Kebony and accoya are modified softwoods from sustainable and renewable sources. They have very good durability, acting like hardwoods, and will last up to 80 years untreated.” Andrew highlights the longevity of seasoned oak and adds, “Timber properties from the 16th and 17th centuries are still standing, providing reassuran...
How do I make sure the area is suitable for an outbuilding? The first thing to consider is how much space you have and how close the outbuilding will be to other structures. “It’s best practice to leave a minimum of 1m between the new building and surrounding boundaries and structures,” Andrew says. Angus also highlights the importance of considering the position of trees to avoid damage to roots and to think about the impact on access and parking. “Ensure the ground is level and cut back any foliage,” Andrew says. “Also check if there are any underground or overhead services, such as power cables.” Find local contractors to help with your renovation in the Houzz Professionals Directory. Blankstone How are the foundations created? “Foundations are fairly straightforward for ‘light’, single-storey, timber-framed buildings and can be installed using ground screw systems, which reduces the cost,” Angus says. “This will be determined by site access and ground conditions.” Abbie recommends a traditional strip foundation, which involves filling shallow trenches along the perimeter of the house and load-bearing walls with concrete. “Our design team will create groundwork drawings for ...
In which circumstances could I erect an outbuilding without Planning Permission? “It is possible in certain circumstances to build annexe-type buildings under Permitted Development,” Abbie Elson says. The intended use of your outbuilding, as well as some other factors, will determine whether or not you need to apply for Planning Permission. “As long as the proposed use is incidental to the enjoyment of the dwelling house, then it would be acceptable,” Angus Eitel says. “In other words, it can’t be ‘primary’ accommodation. A home office, for example, falls within this proposed use.” Angus lists the following rules that buildings need to comply with for Permitted Development: No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation (ie not at the front of the house or jutting out from the side). Outbuildings to be single storey, with a maximum eaves height of 2.5m, and a maximum overall height of 4m for a dual-pitched roof or 3m for any other roof. A maximum height of 2.5m in the case of a building, enclosure or container within 2m of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwelling house. No verandas, balconies or raised platforms (a platform must not exceed 0.3m in hei...
The team salvaged the timber frame from the previous opening and reused it. “The pocket door sits inside the timber frame,” Tom says, “so it looks as if it’s always been there.” The original flooring can be seen through the glazed panels, with the new version working harmoniously next to it.
like these cupboard doors
Exploit vertical space So often shelving stops at dado or picture rail height, leaving the wall above as a wasted opportunity. So go high – right up to the ceiling and even over a doorway. The upside to putting shelves on the doorway wall? It will provide masses of storage, and as the shelves are hidden from view as you enter, the room will still feel airy and spacious.
Create a cupboard from scratch If you’re planning a new home or redesigning significantly, try to leave space for a dedicated closet, preferably located off a landing or bedroom corridor. Shelves just 45cm deep would be ideal, again spaced with 25cm clear between each. If you’d like a walk-in closet, allow a minimum of 70cm in front of the shelves for passage. Otherwise, tall doors, reaching from floor to ceiling, will allow good access to the whole space. Make sure everything has a home, with rarely used or out-of-season items on the uppermost shelves.
Linen The secret to great linen storage is shelving that is smaller in all dimensions than you might expect. A clearance of just 25cm vertically between each shelf works perfectly. This allows you to fit a large amount of sheets or towels on each shelf but without the toppling-over effect that results from shelves placed farther apart. Shelves 45cm deep work well, allowing you to stack your linen in one tidy pile. Deeper shelves can mean rummaging for stray items in the nether reaches.
Mops, brooms, vacuum cleaners… It’s the fiddly bits that can overwhelm a home, so try to create at least one cupboard for these miscellaneous household items. A closet 60cm wide and 40-50cm deep would be ideal. And a height of 160cm should suit most situations. Maximise every centimetre of space by strategically placing hooks and shelving baskets on every available surface, including the door.
Home office or study The most important thing with a home office is to make sure that any shelving is of a depth and height to accommodate your biggest files or books. Lever arch files, for example, need shelves 30cm deep and with a minimum clearance of 32cm. Leave a space of at least 50cm between the top of your desk and the underside of the first shelf. This can provide a useful zone for a pinboard, whiteboard or magnetic paint, should you wish to have an area for notes.
Books A key decision with shelving for books is whether to opt for fixed or adjustable shelves. Fixed shelves have the advantage of creating in-built, visual harmony. Adjustable shelves mean that each shelf can be positioned to suit books of differing heights. This might be important where space is limited and every centimetre needs to be maximised. Shelves 60cm wide will work well here and allow a single book to be removed without the rest collapsing. Adjustable shelves wider than 60cm run the risk also of sagging under the weight of heavy books Next is the matter of the types of books to be stored. Most books fit happily on shelves 23cm deep. And most books, including paperbacks, need a clearance (ie, the distance between each empty shelf, measured vertically) of just 23cm, with a clearance of 30cm accommodating all but oversize books. These need shelves 30-40cm deep and a vertical clearance of 50cm. While you’ll need to fine-tune the dimensions to suit the context and visual appearance of the shelving, good all-round dimensions for fixed shelving would be a depth of 23cm and a clearance of 30cm.
NB where the different coloured walls meet
The family’s laundry goes from bedroom to washing machine now, without having to be brought downstairs.
In the tiny single bedroom, Jo’s team built a bed in a nook with storage underneath. “The tongue-and-groove doors with Suffolk ironware give it some character,” she says. The windows are again uPVC, but the dark grey paint and new handles help to tie them in with the old house.
In the master bedroom, the back wall was plastered, so the team built a layer of Cotswold stone in front of it. “It takes up some space in the room, but creates more character,” Jo say
Demolishing the wall between the dining room and kitchen created one larger open space, and dark joinery provides a counterpoint to the light, bright interior, with yellow accents continuing the vibrant tone established at the front door. Nice idea to incorporate the colour of front door elsewhere in the house to give a finished thought out vibe
Ben removed the low ceiling in the dining and kitchen area to expose the trusses and raked roof. He lined the underside of the roof with v-joint cladding and added three large skylights. The lining and trusses are painted white to enhance the sense of light and volume, having an uplifting effect on the entire living area.
Deep Space Blue by Little Greene
Using a 'board' behind the TV brings it all together and zones the area perfectly
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