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Ideas

Maureen
Maureen
Comment
YING1

I think this room already has a beautiful classic foundation, so I’d keep the updates simple and balanced rather than filling every empty wall. For the 11-ft wall, I’d choose one larger statement piece around 60–72 inches wide. It will feel more intentional and less busy than several small pieces. If you prefer a gallery look, three coordinated vertical pieces around 20 × 28 inches each would also work well. For the areas beside the windows, I’d keep things lighter — a pair of narrow botanical prints or tall greenery would add balance without competing with the windows. I wouldn’t add too much around the mirror either. A pair of small sconces or narrow framed pieces is enough; leaving some negative space will make the room feel more elegant. Since you already have white glazed cabinetry and Calacatta marble, I’d use antique brass/warm gold, medium natural wood, or a very thin black frame. Artwork with warm neutrals, muted blue-gray, soft olive, taupe, and touches of brown would tie everything together beautifully. I created a quick visualization to show how these ideas could work in your space. Hope this helps! 😊

Q

Reply to: I think this room already has a beautiful classic foundation, so I’d keep the updates simple and balanced rather than filling every empty wall. For the 11-ft wall, I’d choose one larger statement piece around 60–72 inches wide. It will feel more intentional and less busy than several small pieces. If you prefer a gallery look, three coordinated vertical pieces around 20 × 28 inches each would also work well. For the areas beside the windows, I’d keep things lighter — a pair of narrow botanical prints or tall greenery would add balance without competing with the windows. I wouldn’t add too much around the mirror either. A pair of small sconces or narrow framed pieces is enough; leaving some negative space will make the room feel more elegant. Since you already have white glazed cabinetry and Calacatta marble, I’d use antique brass/warm gold, medium natural wood, or a very thin black frame. Artwork with warm neutrals, muted blue-gray, soft olive, taupe, and touches of brown would tie everything together beautifully. I created a quick visualization to show how these ideas could work in your space. Hope this helps! 😊

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Comment
BeverlyFLADeziner

To accomplish this project you should use Limewash NOT Paint.

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Reply to: To accomplish this project you should use Limewash NOT Paint.

Q

Discussion
T M
20

Redoing our wood burning fireplace- help, advice please!

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Comment
Alex Lane

@Diana Bier this is really helpful. can i ask why no SW?! I picked alabaster over swiss coffee becasue it was less yellow in our home but still a warm white. But should i steer clear of SW ?!

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Reply to: @Diana Bier this is really helpful. can i ask why no SW?! I picked alabaster over swiss coffee becasue it was less yellow in our home but still a warm white. But should i steer clear of SW ?!

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Comment
Maureen

The wallpaper is lovely and solid drapes will allow the paper to remain the star. Suggest a brass rod and pinched pleats drapes. If you decide on a trim, choose something subtle/matches the paper’s background. Regarding the rug, maybe consider using both pink and green. I really like this one (sorry can’t provide the link). It’s wool and be sure whatever you decide on, use a high quality under padding to prolong its lifespan. The table will break it up, so it won’t be as prominent/fighting with the paper.

Q

Reply to: The wallpaper is lovely and solid drapes will allow the paper to remain the star. Suggest a brass rod and pinched pleats drapes. If you decide on a trim, choose something subtle/matches the paper’s background. Regarding the rug, maybe consider using both pink and green. I really like this one (sorry can’t provide the link). It’s wool and be sure whatever you decide on, use a high quality under padding to prolong its lifespan. The table will break it up, so it won’t be as prominent/fighting with the paper.

Q

Comment
Kendrah

This is a beautiful floor in cool colors. I don't automatically think alabaster and accessible beige when I think of something complementing cool. Paint the wall and wainscoting the same color. Painting them two different colors will create a long horizontal line which only emphasizes the long narrowness of this room. Resist the temptation to make this wall your focal point. Your wonderful floor is your focal point. The wainscoting adds sophisitication and interest to what should be your solid colored wall. I wouldn't factor in your shower tile color as it seems a curtain will be covering them the majority of the time. Are you painting the end cabinets the same color as the walls?

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Reply to: This is a beautiful floor in cool colors. I don't automatically think alabaster and accessible beige when I think of something complementing cool. Paint the wall and wainscoting the same color. Painting them two different colors will create a long horizontal line which only emphasizes the long narrowness of this room. Resist the temptation to make this wall your focal point. Your wonderful floor is your focal point. The wainscoting adds sophisitication and interest to what should be your solid colored wall. I wouldn't factor in your shower tile color as it seems a curtain will be covering them the majority of the time. Are you painting the end cabinets the same color as the walls?

Q

Comment
Kendrah

This is completely absurd. And, frustrating to hire someone who should have avoided this error. Sorry you are dealing with it. You approved a drawing with a narrow aisle. It isn't smart, but you agreed to it, so that part is on you. What is not on you is that the designer didn't calculate how far out the range would protrude. They need to eat the cost of removing a quart section all the way up to the ceiling, replacing with stainless, return and restocking fee for the current range, and pay for the amount of the new range above what the cost is of your original range. Why do they owe you this? Because they should have been able to show you exactly why this configuration would not work in the first place and let you know that the only range that would work is very expensive. At that point you might have said, I don't want a range that is this price, let's look at placing the range elsewhere, or not having an island, or working more feasibly in some fashion in this space. Your DK didn't provide you with the opportunity to have that conversation or review of the design with the new measurements. Please have someone take a picture of you standing in front of the range with the door all the way open. A picture speaks 1,000 words. Show it to your designer along with your request for this to be made right on their dime.

Q

Reply to: This is completely absurd. And, frustrating to hire someone who should have avoided this error. Sorry you are dealing with it. You approved a drawing with a narrow aisle. It isn't smart, but you agreed to it, so that part is on you. What is not on you is that the designer didn't calculate how far out the range would protrude. They need to eat the cost of removing a quart section all the way up to the ceiling, replacing with stainless, return and restocking fee for the current range, and pay for the amount of the new range above what the cost is of your original range. Why do they owe you this? Because they should have been able to show you exactly why this configuration would not work in the first place and let you know that the only range that would work is very expensive. At that point you might have said, I don't want a range that is this price, let's look at placing the range elsewhere, or not having an island, or working more feasibly in some fashion in this space. Your DK didn't provide you with the opportunity to have that conversation or review of the design with the new measurements. Please have someone take a picture of you standing in front of the range with the door all the way open. A picture speaks 1,000 words. Show it to your designer along with your request for this to be made right on their dime.

Q

Comment
Kendrah

I too have chosen in three kitchens to bypass a recessed light scheme in favor of flush and semi-flush mounts in a similar size and layout that you are proposing. I'm into your aesthetic. 1. Have you considered whether the depth of the ceiling beams will obscure some of the throw of these lights? 2. I do believe glare will be an issue. 3. Although these are not task lights, I still believe it is best for them to have a wide range from quite bright to dim. Have you exhausted all sources for lights that emulate the first picture, have a frosted glass, and a more common bulb? I love Urban Archeology lights though know how expensive they can be. Have you considered these from Marine flush mounts from Visual Comfort? They take an E26. Or these? At 8" they may be taller than you wish, but I'm wondering if that is not a bad thing given the depth of your beams. https://www.shiplights.com/product/industrial-flush-bulkhead-light-wo-cage/ Peared Creation These seem the right size and frosted. Not as high end as the ones in your first picture, but might look great none the less.

Q

Reply to: I too have chosen in three kitchens to bypass a recessed light scheme in favor of flush and semi-flush mounts in a similar size and layout that you are proposing. I'm into your aesthetic. 1. Have you considered whether the depth of the ceiling beams will obscure some of the throw of these lights? 2. I do believe glare will be an issue. 3. Although these are not task lights, I still believe it is best for them to have a wide range from quite bright to dim. Have you exhausted all sources for lights that emulate the first picture, have a frosted glass, and a more common bulb? I love Urban Archeology lights though know how expensive they can be. Have you considered these from Marine flush mounts from Visual Comfort? They take an E26. Or these? At 8" they may be taller than you wish, but I'm wondering if that is not a bad thing given the depth of your beams. https://www.shiplights.com/product/industrial-flush-bulkhead-light-wo-cage/ Peared Creation These seem the right size and frosted. Not as high end as the ones in your first picture, but might look great none the less.

Q

Comment
Celery. Visualization, Rendering images

I would not paint any furniture. I just would go with coastal airy style. Some kind of

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Reply to: I would not paint any furniture. I just would go with coastal airy style. Some kind of

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Comment
gardener123

oh my gosh. In my young and foolish days, and before GW, I was lured by stunning tiles (and encouraged by the tile shop) to do an elaborate crackle ceramic in a shower. Matching wall niche next to the sink. It cost a fortune. It was gorgeous. Rosettes. Ropes. Listellos. Capitals. Imported Ceramiche Grazia. 2 years later I ripped it all out and replaced it with in-stock Lowes porcelain. It now looked like an institutional shower but time was of the essence. Needed a shower, and the crackle tiles were sponges. One year after that, I replaced the entire bathroom. Again. Crackle? In a shower? Take heed. Do not do it. You will seal it. You will shower in it. You will let it dry for days. Then reseal. Then let the sealant dry for days.... It will not work. The tile will darken. That means it's holding water. You will wait for it to lighten. That means it's dry. Reseal. Wait for the sealant to dry. Repeat, and repeat. My apologies. I'm triggered lol. I hope this helps someone considering crackle tile for years to come. Jan and the generous posters who have already warned you here will undoubtedly correct me, but I won't even install regular ceramic in a shower. A backsplash yes, shower no. Never. Again.

Q

Reply to: oh my gosh. In my young and foolish days, and before GW, I was lured by stunning tiles (and encouraged by the tile shop) to do an elaborate crackle ceramic in a shower. Matching wall niche next to the sink. It cost a fortune. It was gorgeous. Rosettes. Ropes. Listellos. Capitals. Imported Ceramiche Grazia. 2 years later I ripped it all out and replaced it with in-stock Lowes porcelain. It now looked like an institutional shower but time was of the essence. Needed a shower, and the crackle tiles were sponges. One year after that, I replaced the entire bathroom. Again. Crackle? In a shower? Take heed. Do not do it. You will seal it. You will shower in it. You will let it dry for days. Then reseal. Then let the sealant dry for days.... It will not work. The tile will darken. That means it's holding water. You will wait for it to lighten. That means it's dry. Reseal. Wait for the sealant to dry. Repeat, and repeat. My apologies. I'm triggered lol. I hope this helps someone considering crackle tile for years to come. Jan and the generous posters who have already warned you here will undoubtedly correct me, but I won't even install regular ceramic in a shower. A backsplash yes, shower no. Never. Again.

Q

Comment
Jennifer Hogan

There is no way to know what counter will work well with the cabinets and floor tile without looking at them together. Have you ever gone out and saw that perfect coral colored shorts and think - those will be perfect with the blouse I bought that has blue and coral and green only to bring it home and see that the two corals are very different, one is much pinker than the other and could never been worn together. Same thing - you can't tell from memory - you have to see the colors and patterns together. Neutrals that really work together are difficult - one is a bit more yellow, the next one too beige, the next one too gray. Whites are the same - they are just light neutrals. You will need to take several of your tiles and a drawer front along to the stone yard to pick out the right countertop.

Q

Reply to: There is no way to know what counter will work well with the cabinets and floor tile without looking at them together. Have you ever gone out and saw that perfect coral colored shorts and think - those will be perfect with the blouse I bought that has blue and coral and green only to bring it home and see that the two corals are very different, one is much pinker than the other and could never been worn together. Same thing - you can't tell from memory - you have to see the colors and patterns together. Neutrals that really work together are difficult - one is a bit more yellow, the next one too beige, the next one too gray. Whites are the same - they are just light neutrals. You will need to take several of your tiles and a drawer front along to the stone yard to pick out the right countertop.

Q

Comment
rebunky

Nothing is going to be ideal unless you can move or change windows/doorways. What about putting the fridge on the end of short ”L”, then a corner prep sink, then range centered between the windows. 36” range with 42” hood for better capture area. No uppers next to the hood. That leaves the clean up sink and dish storage having to go on the left wall. 70% of time spent in the kitchen is prepping food, 10% is actually standing at the stove cooking, and 20% is on cleaning which is including wiping counters, sweeping, etc. So, if it was my choice, I would rather compromise with the clean up sink facing a wall, allowing a larger prep space in front of the window. Something like this?

Q

Reply to: Nothing is going to be ideal unless you can move or change windows/doorways. What about putting the fridge on the end of short ”L”, then a corner prep sink, then range centered between the windows. 36” range with 42” hood for better capture area. No uppers next to the hood. That leaves the clean up sink and dish storage having to go on the left wall. 70% of time spent in the kitchen is prepping food, 10% is actually standing at the stove cooking, and 20% is on cleaning which is including wiping counters, sweeping, etc. So, if it was my choice, I would rather compromise with the clean up sink facing a wall, allowing a larger prep space in front of the window. Something like this?

Q

Comment
Kendrah

The coffee table is too much look in a small room regardless of what is across from it. The bobbin legs appear much more bulbous than those of the console. They look inappropriately sized for a table that small. The console is great though. If you post pics of your livimg room we can help. I like a glass coffee table in a small room because it sort of disappears. They come in so many styles and can be incorporated with more traditional wood furniture too.

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Reply to: The coffee table is too much look in a small room regardless of what is across from it. The bobbin legs appear much more bulbous than those of the console. They look inappropriately sized for a table that small. The console is great though. If you post pics of your livimg room we can help. I like a glass coffee table in a small room because it sort of disappears. They come in so many styles and can be incorporated with more traditional wood furniture too.

Q

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