My Plan (3)

Beth H. :

Thank you zebe. want to see my before? I was so over the 2004 tuscan look w/dark stain and gold tones. Your cabs will be easy enough to paint. make sure to mark the exact spot where they are before removing them, or they will never line up properly. mark the inside hinges. You have to sand them to get off all the grime/grease and old finish. Or apply a coat of stripper. (SoyGel is great, and it washes up w/water, no chemicals) I'm a pro furniture refinisher. I've worked w/tons of wood finishes and every paint you can imagine.I know what works and what process looks best. don't skip the fine details! Sand them w/100-150 grit. then switch to a 220, and finish w/320 grit. clean well between grits with mineral spirits or Naaptha . Oh, this is where you'll need to make your new holes, and fill up old ones. (obviously you need your new hardware on hand first) Use a good bondo if the holes are large. in a pinch, use a good wood filler. use enough because it will shrink. wait till dry and use an orbital sander to make it level. you should close your eyes and not feel where the hole is. make your new holes now for your new hardware. don't wait until after it's all painted. vacuum up well all around the area where youre going to paint (like a garage. throw down a clean plastic sheeting ala Dexter!. lol. If youre garage is super cold, the paint wont adhere properly. I think anything below 50 degrees is too cold. I like to use sawhorses and wood boards to set down the doors for painting. Mist the area w/water. (keeps the dust motes down) prime w/zinsser oil base primer. Use the spray cans. buy a contractors pack. it's so much easier than brushing. you don't have that much to do, so it's worth the extra cost. you'll need about 5-10 cans. Lay down an even, fine coat. when dry, fine sand w/a 220 grit paper or sponge block. (if you want a nice smooth coat, you must do this). vaccum and wipe clean w/mineral spirits. if you need another coat, do it. If the multiple cans are too expensive for you (contractors pack should be under 30 bucks or so, and you can use the canned primer for anything else youre painting) you can buy one can and a good brush for painting. you will for sure need to sand this primer when it's dry because it goes on a lot thicker than the spray. this is newer, water-base primer. I have not tried it. when you can wipe your clean hand across the surface and not feel any bumps or grit, you can paint. get a smooth sponge roller (unless you have a sprayer) and roll on your first coat. When it's dry, get yourself some wet/sand paper (600 grit or higher) wet it and lightly wet sand your coat. You can't believe the diff this makes in the final finish. wipe clean and give your second coat of paint. make it the last thing you do in the area because you don't want to walk around it while it's drying. it stirs up dust and debris. (mist the floor surface w/water before painting) when dry see if you need a fine sand. if not, you're good to go. The best paint I've found is Cabinet Coat, BM Advance or SW ProClassic. Don't cheap out on the paint or your brushes. (use the krud kutter first to de-grease everything. I wouldn't use it in place of sanding and priming) if you need to spray your hinges, degrease them first (you can boil them and then fine sand them.) and spray w/Rustoleum metallic paint. Kylie has the best info about paint colors. and she goes through some painting tips https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/painting-kitchen-cabinets-how-to-pick-the-best-paint-colour/ She also talks about the best white paint colors https://www.evolutionofstyleblog.com/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets-like But this one, has a step by step on how to paint (it's basically what I've just written) . She gives lots of pictures, how to tape off everything, and how to do it so it will last. (don't think this is only going to be for a year so you're just going to wing it. life happens and you don't know what will happen! We did this for my friend w/her old oak cabs. she just wanted something for a year or so. well, that was 13 years ago and her painted cabs have still held up because of the proper prep work we did. ) https://www.evolutionofstyleblog.com/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets-like If you can remove your soffit, have your husband fill it in w/boxes, or a large crown, like they did here. This is another really good painter. She did this kitchen in Alabaster https://www.paintedbykaylapayne.com/kitchen-cabinets-in-alabaster/ Check craigslist in a large city area. see if anyone is selling these older oak cabinets. Found similar cabs to yours that were painted "Benjamin Moore color match of Farrow & Ball Lamp Room Gray, a soft gray." They even did the metal strap hinges in the same color. (I don't like the knobs on this one.) get some diff ones for yours f

Reply to: Thank you zebe. want to see my before? I was so over the 2004 tuscan look w/dark stain and gold tones. Your cabs will be easy enough to paint. make sure to mark the exact spot where they are before removing them, or they will never line up properly. mark the inside hinges. You have to sand them to get off all the grime/grease and old finish. Or apply a coat of stripper. (SoyGel is great, and it washes up w/water, no chemicals) I'm a pro furniture refinisher. I've worked w/tons of wood finishes and every paint you can imagine.I know what works and what process looks best. don't skip the fine details! Sand them w/100-150 grit. then switch to a 220, and finish w/320 grit. clean well between grits with mineral spirits or Naaptha . Oh, this is where you'll need to make your new holes, and fill up old ones. (obviously you need your new hardware on hand first) Use a good bondo if the holes are large. in a pinch, use a good wood filler. use enough because it will shrink. wait till dry and use an orbital sander to make it level. you should close your eyes and not feel where the hole is. make your new holes now for your new hardware. don't wait until after it's all painted. vacuum up well all around the area where youre going to paint (like a garage. throw down a clean plastic sheeting ala Dexter!. lol. If youre garage is super cold, the paint wont adhere properly. I think anything below 50 degrees is too cold. I like to use sawhorses and wood boards to set down the doors for painting. Mist the area w/water. (keeps the dust motes down) prime w/zinsser oil base primer. Use the spray cans. buy a contractors pack. it's so much easier than brushing. you don't have that much to do, so it's worth the extra cost. you'll need about 5-10 cans. Lay down an even, fine coat. when dry, fine sand w/a 220 grit paper or sponge block. (if you want a nice smooth coat, you must do this). vaccum and wipe clean w/mineral spirits. if you need another coat, do it. If the multiple cans are too expensive for you (contractors pack should be under 30 bucks or so, and you can use the canned primer for anything else youre painting) you can buy one can and a good brush for painting. you will for sure need to sand this primer when it's dry because it goes on a lot thicker than the spray. this is newer, water-base primer. I have not tried it. when you can wipe your clean hand across the surface and not feel any bumps or grit, you can paint. get a smooth sponge roller (unless you have a sprayer) and roll on your first coat. When it's dry, get yourself some wet/sand paper (600 grit or higher) wet it and lightly wet sand your coat. You can't believe the diff this makes in the final finish. wipe clean and give your second coat of paint. make it the last thing you do in the area because you don't want to walk around it while it's drying. it stirs up dust and debris. (mist the floor surface w/water before painting) when dry see if you need a fine sand. if not, you're good to go. The best paint I've found is Cabinet Coat, BM Advance or SW ProClassic. Don't cheap out on the paint or your brushes. (use the krud kutter first to de-grease everything. I wouldn't use it in place of sanding and priming) if you need to spray your hinges, degrease them first (you can boil them and then fine sand them.) and spray w/Rustoleum metallic paint. Kylie has the best info about paint colors. and she goes through some painting tips https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/painting-kitchen-cabinets-how-to-pick-the-best-paint-colour/ She also talks about the best white paint colors https://www.evolutionofstyleblog.com/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets-like But this one, has a step by step on how to paint (it's basically what I've just written) . She gives lots of pictures, how to tape off everything, and how to do it so it will last. (don't think this is only going to be for a year so you're just going to wing it. life happens and you don't know what will happen! We did this for my friend w/her old oak cabs. she just wanted something for a year or so. well, that was 13 years ago and her painted cabs have still held up because of the proper prep work we did. ) https://www.evolutionofstyleblog.com/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets-like If you can remove your soffit, have your husband fill it in w/boxes, or a large crown, like they did here. This is another really good painter. She did this kitchen in Alabaster https://www.paintedbykaylapayne.com/kitchen-cabinets-in-alabaster/ Check craigslist in a large city area. see if anyone is selling these older oak cabinets. Found similar cabs to yours that were painted "Benjamin Moore color match of Farrow & Ball Lamp Room Gray, a soft gray." They even did the metal strap hinges in the same color. (I don't like the knobs on this one.) get some diff ones for yours f

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