Windows

Reply to: No tapered apron--all square cuts! I prefer the head trim to project an inch beyond the jamb trim, with a square cut, and an additional molding which projects beyond the head molding another inch. The additional molding can be below the head molding, below it, or both as the photos illustrate. Trim is a very personal thing for each architect, and, of course, should echo the architectural syle of the house. I like these approaches because, to me they have an interesting, somewhat historical and vernacular appearance without being overly complicated. and, Good luck!

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Reply to: The use of mullions in windows should be a carefully considered design issue. Aside from the need for them in the exterior composition of some kinds of houses they can help strike a balance between a sense of openness to the outside and a sense of enclosure and comfort especially in the storms that come with such open views. To me a balance is appropriate unless one condition is more important than the other which I have yet to encounter in single-family residential design. When there is a great view of the ocean or the mountains it is usually a horizontal view so horizontal elements in wide windows reinforce that idea and mullions in the upper sash are usually seen against the sky. If the double-hung windows cannot be tall, Cottage Style windows raise the horizontal rail as shown in the photo. Also, owners usually want to see the view from an exterior space like a deck and since casements interfere with safe use of a deck I don't find much opportunity to use them except for basement emergency escape windows and as double operating French casements but I stopped using those because of hardware problems. I usually use multiple awning windows above kitchen counters and in bathrooms because they look better than casements when open and can provide ventilation in the rain and they collect less detritus between the glass and the interior screen. Screens are another issue - they are less noticeable on the outside than on the inside and double/single-hung windows can have half screens that allow mullions in the upper sash to be visible from outside and be virtually invisible from inside.

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Reply to: The plygem Uniframe and Ecosmart are their top lines, but I'm guessing those are not an option. Your builder's top option is probably the Premium series, formerly the Great Lakes Grandview 5000. It was once a nice window IMO, but the beancounters got to it and time has passed it by. Air infiltration rate of .19cfm which is below average as vinyl windows go.

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Reply to: Here are some pics of our windows. In the first picture, that little plastic thingie is a pocket that the screen fits into with a spring-loaded plunger. With the top of our windows at 8', it puts them at 87" off of the floor- well out of my reach. I don't know if I could have ordered them installed lower down on the window/screen. The next picture is the interior of one of our front double-hungs with the SDL option. It was about $125 per window, so we only put them on the front of the house. Note the flared window returns, my own idea to mitigate the tunnel effect of the thick ICF walls. The last picture is the exterior of the same window. We will eventually paint the window in a deep red, as well as the front door. Need to finish up that siding......

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Reply to: Double hung means there are upper and lower sash and both can move. Single hung, ditto, except the upper sash is immobile. Two windows side by side is referred to as paired or coupled. The act of pairing (or tripling, etc.) windows by adding a molding (mullion strip) is called mulling; for instance a pair of mulled double hung windows, or a triple mulled casement arrangement, and so on. Mulled windows fit in a single rough opening in the framing. When another stud or studs separates the windows, they are referred to as grouped. Manufacturers will mull windows up to a certain size at the factory, but really large units are assembled on site. Trivia: there are triple hung windows, consisting of upper, middle and lower sash, each operable independently. Casey

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Reply to: Head to your local Marvin dealer and look at them yourself if it is a big enough to carry the full line. Otherwise, use this link: Marvin Windows Manufacturer Website Comparing Marvin Window Brands! If money is no object; go with Marvin Ultimates! That the window I have in my home! Just make sure the installer know what he/she is doing especially on brick and stucco homes. Good luck with your project.

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Reply to: Britta, Love2cavies, If you need granite, these guys in Decatur are worth the drive. I’m not kidding, we looked at Granite for 2 months. Ultra high end places, discount places and warehouses. its worth the drive to Decatur to visit them. Best selection, very competitive prices and top notch installation. https://www.constructionresourcesusa.com/atlanta-kitchen/ for cabinets we used Stan Hunt at The Caninet place in Lula Ga. Great design, custom builds and really competitive prices (Less than the high end stuff at Home Depot and tons better) http://www.cabinetplace.net

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Reply to: I can't speak to the other brands and/or which is better. However, since this is a "forever home" and you are wanting to invest in windows I recommend a wood-clad window. The powder-coated aluminum cladding on the exterior will outlast a vinyl (plastic) window and the wood interior will add thermal performance that far exceeds the vinyl options. Plus, the powder-coating on the exterior will protect from the high humidity environment of Georgia. Hope this helps!

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Reply to: I would roll with the integrity Wood Ultrex if you want a woon interior but if you want an all white window I would look into Okna, Soft-lite, Sunrise or Vytex as they are a premimum vinyl window with much better oerfromance values.

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Reply to: We used Andersen 400 windows for our mountain home.

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Reply to: Simonton is an average contractor window but still much better than both jeldwin and silverline which are total garbage and cheap looking. i would see if there is an Okna window dealer in state or Soft lite, Sunrise, or Kensington dealer. Okna, Soft lite, Sunrise, or Kensington are MUCH better and nicer than the brands you saw.

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Reply to: That's going to look really sharp trimmed out that way! Everyone I know who has the 100 series loves them. We are actually going to do a mix of 100 and 400series (400 on windows that require sizing that the 100 didn't offer, or where we really care about how the interior looks, like our great room and kitchen)....I'm hoping that with the exteriors trimmed the same way and SDL grilles on both that it won't be too noticeable from the exterior that we have some 400's mixed with the 100's on our house!

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Reply to: @kawerkamp -I agree, I like the exterior of the 100 series and the interior of the 200 series. We have to order this week, and I’ve pretty much decided to go with the 100 series. I actually like the fact that the 100s are single hung, less potential risk for leaking air or something tearing up. We have a few casements, but switching them to double hungs was not a deal breaker for me when considering the 200 series. I’m going to do an exterior trim something like the attached photo, I think it improves the look of the flat profile on the 100s.

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Reply to: I mentioned the brands Okna, Softlite, Vytex, Polaris, Himark are the vinyl brands preferred by most professionals I personally know. Some Andersen series, Marvin Integrity and Ultimates, Kolbe and Loewen in a wood or wood clad window. I would not put anything Jeldwen or Pella in my doghouse. Milgard is a very regional decent product but not available in the east. I have been in the window and door business 30 plus years the last 10 commercial.

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Reply to: We have vinyl windows throughout our house. We went with Atrium. Lifetime warranty (except glass breakage, obviously). Double pane, 1/2" air space, low-E, argon gas between the panes. They factory-mulled (I think that's the word the rep used) transoms to our living room windows and DR window (with is 5' x 7' with a 1' eyebrow transom) for ease of installation. Now, the DR window weighed about 400lbs just because of the sheer size. Anyway, they look good -- we went with the champagne color, and work well. Our inspector stated on his inspection report that the windows are of a better quality that would be expected in similar homes. We priced a wood window for the dining room, and it was going to cost 50% more and have a lot more upkeep.

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Reply to: macv always recommends the Anderson Woodwright 400 (not the tilt wash 400). A step up from the 200 which is builders grade.

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Reply to: Again as many have stated before windows are a tricky purchase for many people. There are so many options /prices/ quality. You really need to get out and visit showrooms on these. See the various features, benefits. Then price them to see how they fit your budget. Look at how each operates,locks, cleans etc. Be sure they have local reps who can service them after installation and should there be any problems. While not pushing them I would suggest you include the Windsor Legend series in your search since they meet many of your criteria. It has PVC sashes and exterior trim( pre attached) So you get white interior and exterior. Its pretty maintainence free however I dont see any window as free of maintanance as cleaning is required. Thats why you should be comfortable with how they operate etc. Their energy efficiency is in the range most are. They look pretty nice as well as you can get several different trims/ brick mouldings applied. Costs are also reasonable.

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Reply to: Sunrise and Soft-Lite should both be available as is Okna in those parts.

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Reply to: Alside is NOT quality, either is Alco or Silverline. Okna, Soft Lite, Gorell, and Sunrise are all very high quality. However, i am not sure which of those brands are available in your area. I would contact each company.

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Reply to: izzydixie....I thought you had left us forever :) My windows are vinyl...and cheap. I needed so many of them, that to get better ones was going to cost 80K more just to upgrade them all. I really agonized over that decision because I truly disliked the viynl windows (I still dislike them) with their thin and skimpy trim. So I told my builder to do whatever he could to beef them up. The trim he added is some kind of Hardie board trim material (not vinyl), so it needs to be painted. I don’t know the exact sizes and styles of all the pieces he used. Here are some pics to show where the window material ends and the Hardie trim begins. The red outline with the “T” in the middle is all extra trim that was added (you can see how thin the original window is). You can also tell where the vinyl on the window ends and the Hardie trim begins by the color difference (the vinyl is much whiter). Not that noticeable in person. Not sure if this info helps you any :)

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