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Reply to: It's from Brizo - the Solna in Brushed bronze.

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Reply to: the sink is Ceramica Tecla and I found it on Wayfair.com. The faucets are Kohler (Margaux single hole in chrome) The vanity was custom designed and built for SIR Development.

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Reply to: WHY YOU NEED FILLER IN CORNERS IF YOU DO NOT USE A STANDARD CORNER SOLUTION Corners in a kitchen have historically been handled by either a corner susan or blind corner cabinet - what I call "standard corner solutions". Over the last few years, we on GW Kitchens have been promoting other ideas for handling a corner: (1) Turning a standard cabinet 90 degrees to face outside the kitchen when the corner has at least one open side (e.g., peninsula) (2) Corner Drawers (3) Voiding out the corner completely Each has pros and cons (which I am not going to go into here at this time) and each has design considerations that need to be addressed. This topic will address the need for "filler" on the kitchen side when you decide to go with items (1) or (3). . When cabinets and/or appliances are in a corner, you need to be sure that all cabinets/appliances on each side of the corner are usable - that you can open doors/drawers/appliances fully without running into items on the other side of the corner. To ensure this, you will need "filler" in the corners - filler that is wide enough to allow doors/drawers/appliances to clear everything on the other side of the corner when those doors/drawers/appliances are opened. OK, this is probably a bit confusing, so let me clarify with an illustration and then an explanation. There are two sets of illustrations - the right way and the wrong way: First, the right way: . An appliance next to the corner: . . . Now, the wrong way (showing a drawer and door attempting to be opened): An appliance next to the corner: . . ********** EXPLANATION ********** Total depth of a cabinet...Cabinet boxes are 24" deep. Then, add 1" for the drawer front/door. Finally add another 1.5" for drawer pulls/door knobs (some are 1.25", some 2" deep). Your cabinets are now 26.5" total depth (at least). Add a bit for clearance (you'll see why in a minute), and you're now up to 27" depth (24" + 1" + 1.5" + 0.5" = 27") The actual depth will vary +/- an inch or so, depending on the particular cabinet line. Assume 27", though, to be safe. (You don't want an "Oh no, my XXX can't be opened!" moment!) So, you now have 27" deep cabinets on both sides of the corner. . Appliance in a corner...If you have an appliance within 6" to 9" or so of the corner, determine the depth for that side based on the total depth of the appliance (including doors & handles) + whatever space is needed behind it. E.g., most ranges are around 29" deep, including doors & handles. Looking at installation instructions of various ranges, it looks like there should be approximately 2" behind a range (check the specs or installation instructions to determine what your range requires). So, that brings you to approximately 31" total depth - for a range. Each appliance has its own specs. So, we know know that the total cabinets are 27" deep and a range, e.g., is 31" deep. . When you install these items in a corner, you need to have enough space for the drawers, doors, pulls/knobs, handles, whatever, clear the cabinets on the other side of the corner - see the illustrations above that show the right and wrong ways. . . [NOTE: The examples above were originally done in response to a member asking about IKEA cabinets - that's why IKEA is mentioned on the drawings. However, this information applies to ALL cabinet lines & type (stock/semi-custom/custom, framed/frameless, full overlay/partial overlay, etc.) In some cases, cabinets can be modified to include wider frames on the sides of the cabinets to act as filler. Talk to your cabinetmaker regarding pros/cons of both filler and extended frames.]

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Reply to: "Mongo, when you did the troughs with multiple faucets, did they have just 1 drain? If so, I might be back to the issue that makes me dislike 1 sink. " Excellent question. I've done both. If you want one drain per faucet, then you can use standard drain setups. They might be either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". Just make sure that underneath the sink, when the multiple flows joint together, that the drain pipe is at least 1-1/2" or even a 2". that goes for the trap and the horizontal branch drain that runs out of the trap and into the wall. If you want a single drain for two or three faucets, or two drains for three faucets, then do not use a 1-1/4" drain. Use a 1-1/2" drain in the sink itself. Then continue with 1-1/2" under the sink, or again, if you want to up it, you can go to 2". Typically, a bathroom faucet will supply 1DFU of water. A 1-1/2" system can handle 3DFU of water, 2" 6DFU. Some local codes can be different. So the safe thing would be to run the trough installation past your local inspector.

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Reply to: I agree in a general sort of way. Feel free to think that a 1.25" diameter pipe will work fine as well. A lot depends on local norms. Since the fixtures are never used all at the same time, UPC and IPC codes have a concept of "Bathroom Group" which compensates for the intermittent use of the fixtures. Straight adding the DFU numbers for all fixtures produces a higher number than ever, when you have more faucets. The notion of a Bathroom Group lowers this total. Take no action based on having learned this from me here. Find out more elsewhere. Post if you wish to share.

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Reply to: David, good point to bring up. My local interpretation of the code is that that the grouping value would be for the branch line that drains the group itself; the tub/shower, the toilet, the sink. It allows you to downsize the branch pipe that drains that group as a whole. However, if the group has something else added to it, say a second sink, then you lose the group efficiency and you have to go back to adding up the individual DFUs for each individual item in the bath. You can't just add another 1DFU for the extra sink to the previous group value. Example, if we have a standard bathroom with tub (2DFU), lav (1) and toilet (3), we add up the individual DFUs and get 6. However, just as David mentioned, it's unlikely that the three fixtures will be in use at the same time. So we can group the bathroom and the group as a whole only needs a drain capable of carrying 5DFUs. However, if we add a second lav to that setup, we lose the grouping and have to add things up individually. Now the drain would have to be sized for 7DFUs. Going onward, there are also group values for multiple bathrooms in a house. If a house has 2-1/2 standard bathrooms, with no grouping values at all the line that all three baths drain in to would have to be 6+6+4=16DFUs. Taking into account the single bathroom grouping efficiency, which drops a bathroom from 6 to 5DFUs, we'd need a line capable of draining 5+5+4=14DFUs. However, there is a 2-1/2 bathroom grouping as well that's calculated at 9DFUs. That takes into consideration that idea that it's not very likely that all three toilets, all three sinks, and the two tubs/showers will be in use at the same time. More info than requested, but hey...what the hey-hey. But again, as David mentioned, local code and interpretations can vary.

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Reply to: Similar to the ideas above, I would close in the entry to the buro/gast, and have the fireplace and television within that wall, perhaps two sided fireplace if you wish. (depending on the use of the buro/gast, whether a private or more public space). I suggest building in bookcase to surround the fireplace/television, there are many images on houzz of this type of arrangement. (FYI - fireplace is the orange star, all tables are shown in brown,and area rug is pink) Secondly I would eliminate altogether the doors from staircase into dining area, as they make the space less usable in general, and have no real function, and create an awkward little nook. Cutting out the doors makes room for a console table, creating a nice entry into your living/dining space. A china cabinet would also work here. Turning the dining table lengthwise makes a better use of space, and adding proper lighting as either one, two, or three light fixtures over the table to make it stand out as the specific dining area. It depends on the size of your table, and also the reference to the lighting you may have over your kitchen island. If you are planning pendants over the island, one chandelier will probably be all that is necessary over the dining table, however, if you have potlights over the island, a pair or triplet of lights over the table would be an excellent focal point. I've marked out the living space with a rug, it helps to create distinction, and a sectional will provide more efficient use of space, plus plenty of comfort. One other chair angled towards the sectional will complete the circle, and though the floor plan is still open, this is definitely a separate space from the dining area. I think creating two separate seating areas in the living space works well, I've shown two chairs and a table in behind the sectional. (I would angle the chairs, but I can't figure out how to do it only slightly) You would want these chairs to be more delicate in appearance, possibly even using extra dining chairs. Other options for this second seating area: have two chairs directly facing each other with an ottoman in between, OR a desk and chair, OR painter's easel and stool, OR children's play area. It's all about what works for you.

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Reply to: That's too funny! That's MY kitchen. I ended up using the organic white and I love it. Here's the finished product.

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Reply to: This would be the third option

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Reply to: I came up with this before you posted the whole house plan, so I'm not sure if it'll work for you or not. I don't have a separate pantry but several reach in closets. I think leaving a bigger room for the dining area may help when you have large gatherings.

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Reply to: Here are the house plans as they exist right now Here are the addition plans: I do not have to have 2 mudrooms but I would like some sort of place for all the kids to unload their things when they walk into the back door. I absolutely need a laundry room but it does not have to be located where I have placed it in the addition plans. Also I definitely need a door leading into the backyard. I am open to moving any rooms around. I am not happy with my addition plans, any help would be loved!!

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