Landscaping
3. How far apart? Harrison advises striding out the placement of the stones before you install them. “There’s nothing worse than steppers placed too close together, so you end up shuffling along the pathway,” he says. Tip: The average person’s stride is about 18 inches. If this is true for you — or for the people who will most often use the path — place the stones so their centers are 18 inches apart. Mark the locations on the ground with spray paint, a golf tee or similar.
4. Holly Isn't Just for the Holidays Keep holly (Ilex sp.) in your container and you have a jump start for every season. Year-round interest: • 'Gold Coast' holly (Ilex aquifolium) • Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus nigrescens) • Leatherleaf sedge (Carex buchananii) Fall and Thanksgiving accents: • Add colorful pumpkins. • Add stems of yellow and orange bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) Christmas cheer (shown): • Add pinecones, stems with berries and silver balls • Insert lengths of evergreens from the garden, such as fir and spruce.
2. Quick Summer-to-Fall Pot I often have leftover plants at the end of summer — this container idea is an easy way to put them to good use. These plants are still in their nursery pots and simply nestled into a decorative container. Milk cartons and empty pots are stacked inside the brown container to get the plants to the right height. You can always plant them properly when you have more time.
Le jardinet SaveEmail 1. Fall Container Garden Fall shades are the starting point for a Thanksgiving design that can easily be given mini makeovers to look great all year. Year-round interest: • Dwarf vine maple tree (Acer circinatum 'Little Gem') • 'Spellbound' coral bells (Heuchera hybrid), with gorgeous purple foliage • Dwarf evergreen conifer • Orange grass-like 'Goldfinger' New Zealand iris (Libertia ixioides) • Trailing 'Wojo's gem' periwinkle (Vinca maculata) Fall interest (shown): • Add deep red pansies. Thanksgiving accents: • The orange pot itself sets the scene. • Nestle orange and yellow gourds among the purple foliage. Christmas cheer: • The bare red stems of the maple add height and Christmas color. • Replace gourds you added in fall with gold accents, such as weatherproof ornaments.
Bird bath??
Burbling rock garden fountain. A natural rock fountain brings welcome movement and life to a water-wise garden of rocks and native plants. An inviting water feature like this one is also wonderful for attracting butterflies and birds.
Bocce may be an Italian pastime, but it’s becoming one of America’s too, complementing traditional and contemporary styles alike. Build the court and provide the bocce balls — anyone can bring the wine.
Cost: The price tag can vary based on conditions and design. The required materials won’t break the bank, but the costs of labor can bring the price tag to construct a sound court above $20,000.
Whom to hire: Your court could be a do-it-yourself project. Most materials are available locally at hardware stores and masonry yards, although you might need to find the oyster flour and oyster shell elsewhere. But when done right, construction is a time-consuming process that includes the grading, drainage, foundation and compaction processes described above. A landscape professional or general contractor with experience constructing bocce courts is the best place to start.
Surface: For truest roll play, top your court surface in 1 inch of oyster flour followed by a scattered layer of crushed oyster shells. Other top surface options include gravel and turf, which can serve well, but do not offer the same feel and tempo as a true oyster-based surface.
Borders: Border walls can be constructed either of concrete or a 6-inch by 8-inch cedar beam set on a concrete footing. The preferred method is concrete, and for the best effect, install a 2-inch by 6-inch cedar bumper board against the inside concrete wall as shown.
Site preparation: For your court to last, it must withstand the elements. Grading and drainage are critical, as failure to drain properly is one of the most common issues that can make your court unplayable and can even damage its long-term integrity. The subgrade must be flat from from end to end, sloping slightly from sides to spine. A trench-buried, perforated pipe should run lengthwise in Class 2, permeable rock, beneath 4 to 6 inches of non-expansive rock such as ¾-inch crushed, that is installed level. The crushed layer should be topped by an inch of decomposed granite, compacted to be dead level.
Seating areas, shade structures, fountains and heating elements all enhance the experience, ensuring players linger and enjoy the space, the game and one another.
Location: For some, bocce is an occasional activity best suited to a quaint corner, where it may be ignored except when in use. For others, bocce is the main draw, taking a proud place of honor just steps from the back door. Think about what you want from your court, and let the answer guide you as you consider placement as a focal point or as one that visually recedes into the landscape.
Size: The spacial requirement is the first detail to consider. I’ve seen bocce courts sized modestly, at around 45 feet long by 8 feet wide in some cases, but that’s a cramped court and play feels restricted. One of the game’s true joys is conceiving plays into lengthy arrangements, then watching rolls progress into its depths. A regulation bocce court is 91 feet by 13 feet, and the closer to that size you construct yours, the more authentic your experience will be. If possible, I recommend a minimum sizing of 70 feet by 10 feet.
Before you begin, determine your expectations for your bocce court. To enjoy a few rolls, all you need is a flat surface, a little space and some good company. But if a regulation sporting experience is what you’re after, there’s a lot more design planning that goes into it.
As with the arbor, the plantings have been kept low so that they frame the building rather than hide it. The exception is a paperbark maple, which acts as a punctuation point. Its peeling bark adds to the vignette, while its taller slender silhouette prevents the design from becoming monotonous. Imagine this scene without the cabin and you are left with an interesting tapestry of shapes and textures. Yet with the structure, it’s a true winter garden with an enticing path drawing you toward an inviting focal point.
Arbors, archways and pergolas. This arbor is the entry point to a large mixed border; it’s composed of a trio of simple arches connected by swags of rope. While adding height and scale to the garden, this structure is transparent, allowing the plants beyond to be framed rather than obscured. The temptation is to use such structures as a support for climbing roses or vines, yet this unique design would not have such a significant impact if it were covered in this way. The open silhouette would be lost, and the interesting combination of materials hidden beneath a tangle of stems. Instead low-growing shrubs and perennials flank the pathway, framing the focal point rather than smothering it. In this frosty scene, the weathered wood and rope become a part of the monochromatic winter scene yet stand apart from it.
oe Pye Weed (Eupatorium purpureum) Native from Minnesota south to Arkansas and east to the East Coast Joe Pye Weed and butterfly milkweed (and their cultivars) are two of the most common “weeds” you’ll see for sale in nurseries. Joe Pye Weed reaches 5 to 7 feet tall and loves medium to moist soil in full sun to partial shade. Butterflies flock to it in mid to late summer while it’s in bloom, as do several bee species. Other Joe Pye Weeds include: spotted Joe Pye Weed (E. maculatum), native to most of the northern U.S., and hollow Joe Pye Weed (E. fistulosum), native from Maine to Florida and west to Indiana and Louisiana.
Ironweed (Vernonia spp) Native to most of the eastern half of the U.S. Its common name comes from the rusty color of its seed heads, not from its wind resistance — even though it is quite stout in a strong breeze. There are several species, but the most common might be tall ironweed (Vernonia altissima); it reaches 5 feet or taller in full sun and moist to medium soil and is a boon to late-season pollinators.
American bladdernut flowers earlier than many other woodland understory shrubs and small trees, providing an important source of forage for pollinators that are emerging from hibernation (social wasps) or from the nest as an adult (bees). If your garden or landscape is in the shade, you won’t be disappointed with the performance and three seasons of interest of American bladdernut.
Pollinator notes. The white flowers begin to open in early to mid-May in the upper Midwest and are attractive to bees and social wasps. The flowers are self-incompatible and require cross-pollination by pollinators. With the potential of fluctuating temperatures in May, pollinator visitation can vary, and this is likely why there are only a few seeds that develop to maturity in each seedpod.
Planting notes. American bladdernut thrives in average, loam soils with average moisture. In the wild it can be found growing on upland, shady woodland slopes near wetlands, creeks or rivers. The new, small stems are browsed by rabbits. Place plastic tree protection on the stems before snowfall to prevent browsing; remove the covers in spring. Bladdernut can be propagated from softwood cuttings in the spring, after flowering. The small brown seeds in the pods can be cold stratified in damp sand in the fridge for the winter, or collected and sown directly into the ground or pots in the fall. The seeds take two to three years to germinate, so patience and persistence are required for this propagation method. American bladdernut plants (1-, 2- or 5-gallon pots) are available from a few native plant nurseries in the upper Midwest. I do not know of availability outside the upper Midwest, but it would be worth asking your local nursery to consider growing this fabulous native shrub.
Holm Design & Consulting LLC SaveEmail How to use it. The upright, narrow stature, multistemmed habit and delicate form of American bladdernut make it ideal for a woodland understory or edge, anchoring the corner of a house foundation or featured in the center of a shady planting. Use this native shrub or small tree where you would use pagoda (alternate-leaved) dogwood (Cornus alternifolia).
Distinguishing traits. The clusters of white flowers dangle from the lateral branches and persist for several weeks in early spring. The flowers resemble the flowers of blueberries, with a nodding bell shape. The three-parted leaves begin to open partway through the flowering period and are held upright on the branches. The foliage resembles that of poison ivy leaves, with the center leaf having a longer petiole than the lateral leaves. Fortunately, bladdernut’s shrub form versus a poison ivy vine makes it easy to tell the two plants apart. The clusters of flowers develop into papery bladder-like seedpods in late summer, turning initially from light green to brown later in the fall. The pods dangle from the branches in clusters and rattle in the wind. American bladdernut is multistemmed, with a suckering habit. New stems will sucker from the original planted cluster, forming a larger cluster. The bark is an interesting light rusty brown color with subtle white streaks or stripes that run vertically down the stems.
Benefits and tolerances: Tolerates most soil types except extremely dry soil; shade tolerant — grows best in partial shade in the understory of large deciduous trees Seasonal interest: Light pink to white flower clusters that open in early spring; light brown striped bark, multistemmed habit and attractive papery bladder-like seed pods that persist into early winter When to plant: You can plant small plants in spring, but fall is the preferred season.
Soil requirement: Mesic to dry-mesic, sandy-loam to clay-loam soil Light requirement: Partial sun to partial shade Mature size: 8 to 15 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide
Botanical name: Staphylea trifolia Common name: American bladdernut Origin: Native to eastern North America, from the states bordering the Mississippi river eastward to New Hampshire in the north and Florida in the south; also occurs in eastern Nebraska, Kansas and Oklahoma; in Canada it occurs in Ontario and Quebec Where it will grow: Hardy to -35 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 3b to 8b; find your zone) Typical plant communities: Deciduous woodlands and openings
Rain gutter in landscaping
Wells Design Landscapes SaveEmail Wood The sustainable choice that blends into natural surroundings. Pros: Wood can be cheap and easy to install, and it comes in a wide range of styles. Used in combination with other materials, it can help visually merge areas such as decking and pathways. Also, large wooden railroad ties cut into sections and set vertically can create a sense of drama and scale. Cons: When it comes to longevity, wood can fall short. Even the hardest of woods will eventually be eaten by termites or rot, especially in wetter climate zones.
Balance Garden Design SaveEmail Price. We all know you get what you pay for, and garden edging isn’t any different. If it is cheap, then chances are that it won’t last or it won’t look good for very long. If you can’t afford to have the type of edging you want in your entire garden, then consider mixing it up with a cheaper option. Spend your money on tidying up the key areas, such as the home’s entry or entertainment areas, and always keep in mind making maintenance as easy as you can. A little money spent now will save you in the long run. Your existing space. When choosing the best material for you, look at the styles that already exist in your home and garden. Decide if you want the edging to be an important visual element of the garden (if not in all areas, then perhaps in some), or if it needs to blend in and be partly hidden by the plants. You don’t need to have the same type of edging in your entire garden, but all the styles do need to complement one another. Finally, consider how durable your edging needs to be. Investing in good edging will make all the difference, in the way that a new frame can bring a painting back to life.
sustainable garden design perth SaveEmail Top Considerations Your style. Aside from making maintenance easier, edging needs to reflect the style of your home and garden. It should work with your planting themes, color choices, outdoor furniture and garden ambience. Longevity. It’s wise to base your choice not on price but on the longevity of the product and how well it will hold up in your garden. Mowers and edge trimmers can be unforgiving on products such as bamboo, and some wooden edging doesn’t last long half buried in the soil. Wire may look good but will let the grass wander, and some plastics are not strong and will quickly buckle under pressure. That’s not to say these products don’t work, just that they might not in all situations. Wire can look great in cottage-style gardens with plantings near a path; bamboo in small areas is also effective to create a strong theme. Both make up in visual appeal what they lack in functionality or durability.
"Winter interest" is a landscape term that means there's something beautiful to look at during the cold season. Usually, that means grasses or redtwig dogwoods, but any old perennial will do — like the ones shown here. Winter interest isn't just for us, though; it's for birds, butterflies, frogs and soil microbes munching on leaves and making the garden healthier for summer. A lot will be going on if you leave the garden up until a spring cut-down — get out there and enjoy it this winter!
5. Enjoy new neighbors. Leaving up your plants welcomes all sorts of wildlife you'd never see, even though they're quite common. One year this sharp-shinned hawk visited because juncos were taking refuge in the thick garden cover. The hawk did eventually nab a meal, but that's OK — the garden was helping everyone, doing what nature does best and right out the back door. What a cure for seasonal affective disorder.
3. Protect your plants. Leaving the perennials standing will help them gather snow. That snow in turn will insulate the roots when it gets really cold and also add moisture to the soil. That’s a double win for low-maintenance gardening. Besides, isn’t this image just gorgeous? Viva snow!
Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens SaveEmail 2. Wildlife is hibernating. Lots and lots of insects and frogs, and who knows what else, are out there in your garden overwintering in leaf litter, on twigs, even in the top layer of soil. What happens when you "clean up" the leaves and chop down the plants? You might be tossing out a black swallowtail chrysalis or a mantis egg case, or stepping on a mourning cloak butterfly.
8. Creeping Thyme (Thymus praecox) This low-growing form of the common herb can spread over large areas. It is used as a ground cover or a substitute lawn in many gardens. Its leaves are tiny and aromatic, and its flowers are normally purple, mauve or white in summer. The plant is frost hardy, preferring moist, well-drained soil and a sunny position. There are many varieties of creeping thyme with different-colored leaves and width of spread, so choose one that suits the space you have available.
7. Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina) Grown for its carpet of fuzzy silver foliage, lamb’s ear is used extensively in gardens from cottage to contemporary. In spring and summer, it produces pretty pink or purple flowers, though some cultivars, such as ‘Silver Carpet’, are nonflowering. Lamb’s ear copes well with poor soil as long as it is well drained, and loves the sun, although it will tolerate shade. Divide plants every two to four years to prevent the centers of the clumps from browning.
Pod Garden Design & Landscape SaveEmail 4. Kidney Weed (Dichondra repens) This evergreen spreading perennial has shiny green heart-shaped leaves and inconspicuous green flowers, and is often used as a substitute lawn in low-traffic areas of the garden. It will grow in full sun or partial shade as long as it has plenty of moisture. When conditions are ideal, it will grow quite quickly.
1. Ajuga Also known as bugleweed, ajuga is a member of the mint family that grows well in shade. It will spread to form a dense carpet of rounded leaves in a variety of colors, including purple, bronze and green. There are also several variegated types. White, pink or blue flowers appear in spring and summer. Frost-hardy ajuga can smother other plants if conditions are ideal (moist shade), but the occasional trim will keep it under control. Well-known cultivars include ‘Catlins Giant’, ‘Burgundy Lace’, ‘Black Scallop’ and ‘Pink Elf’.
Cheddar Pink (Dianthus ‘Firewitch’) Lining this simple stone pathway is this unassuming evergreen perennial that packs a serious perfume punch. Cheddar pink is known primarily for its spring flowers, but I have found that many varieties reliably bloom repeatedly in autumn; Firewitch, shown here, is perhaps the most floriferous. Low, mounding cushions of finely textured gray leaves are studded with the hot-pink flowers that release a spicy, clove-like fragrance into the fall air. I use this both in the landscape and containers, where it looks especially pretty with silver and white foliage. Origin: Firewitch is a garden hybrid. Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 3 to 8) Water requirement: Average to little; needs well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 4 inches tall and 12 inches wide When to plant: Spring or late fall
Le jardinet SaveEmail Hillside Black Beauty Snakeroot (Actaea simplex, previously Cimicifuga simplex) With such an unfortunate name, it’s hard to imagine that snakeroot, also called black cohosh, could be either beautiful or fragrant — but in fact it’s both. There are several garden varieties of snakeroot that have almost black leaves, and one of my favorites is Hillside Black Beauty. Rich blue-black leaves form a large clump, which is stunning enough, especially when set off against golden foliage such as that of Golden Spirit smokebush. In late summer tall spires push skyward, each one tipped with long, white foxtail-like blooms that release a vanilla scent until fall. Origin: The species is native to Russia, China, Korea and Japan, but this is a garden hybrid. Where it will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 4 to 8) Soil requirement: Moisture retentive Light requirement: Partial shade Mature size: Flower spikes may reach 6 to 7 feet tall, but the basal foliage is about 2 feet tall and wide When to plant: Spring or fall
With coneflowers in shades of red, orange and yellow, as well as the better known pink and white, how do you choose? My solution is to include several, but I like to make sure at least one of them is fragrant, and I think Fragrant Angel is one of the best. I have heard its perfume described as that of baby powder and heliotrope — to me it leans more toward vanilla. Origin: While the species is native to the U.S., this is a garden hybrid. Where it will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 4 to 9) Water requirement: Drought tolerant once established Light requirement: Full sun but will tolerate partial shade Mature size: 30 inches tall and 20 inches wide when blooming When to plant: Spring or fall
Rock borders
3. Paint pots to match your door. This is quite possibly the easiest way to make your front entrance feel put together: Cluster flowerpots in the same hue as your front door on the stoop. Stick with odd numbers and vary the sizes of the pots for a more casual look. For a formal entrance, choose two giant, identical pots to flank the door.
plants inside drip edge
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