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Peninsula

sunrise50
sunrise50
Comment
azstoneconsulting

Sheila99 - Thanks for your very kind remarks! You have been very nice to work with, and it's always a peasure to help folks out when they are stressin out over stuff like this... In answer to your question - the rods need to run along the long axis of the countertop - example: you have a 98 inch long top that will have a sink opening somewhere in that 98 inch "run".... the rods need to run along the 98 inch axis. At sink openings the rods do NOT have to be on all four sides of the opening. The rod along the back edge should be held in from the back by about an inch. Any more, and the back rod runs the risk of laying in the path of where the holes for your faucets can get driled. As far as what kind of rods need to be used - I prefer the best stainless steel that I can buy, and flowing epoxy from either Bonstone, Chemical Concepts, or Integra Adhesives. ALL THREE companies make "bullet proof" products that have NEVER let me down. I am producing a video this week that will show the rodding process from start to finish.... when it's up on You Tube - I will post a link. In the mean time - here's a link to one on "No Drill Sink Fasteners" for Chemical Concepts.... hth kevin Here is a link that might be useful: No Drill Sink Fastener VIDEO

Q

Reply to: Sheila99 - Thanks for your very kind remarks! You have been very nice to work with, and it's always a peasure to help folks out when they are stressin out over stuff like this... In answer to your question - the rods need to run along the long axis of the countertop - example: you have a 98 inch long top that will have a sink opening somewhere in that 98 inch "run".... the rods need to run along the 98 inch axis. At sink openings the rods do NOT have to be on all four sides of the opening. The rod along the back edge should be held in from the back by about an inch. Any more, and the back rod runs the risk of laying in the path of where the holes for your faucets can get driled. As far as what kind of rods need to be used - I prefer the best stainless steel that I can buy, and flowing epoxy from either Bonstone, Chemical Concepts, or Integra Adhesives. ALL THREE companies make "bullet proof" products that have NEVER let me down. I am producing a video this week that will show the rodding process from start to finish.... when it's up on You Tube - I will post a link. In the mean time - here's a link to one on "No Drill Sink Fasteners" for Chemical Concepts.... hth kevin Here is a link that might be useful: No Drill Sink Fastener VIDEO

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No to these barstools.

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Boise

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Bali

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Discussion
Erica Shadoin
53

Not enough kitchen island overhang!

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K R

We have a 12 inch overhang and it’s plenty for seating. Even my 6’5” husband who’s all legs has no issues sitting at the counter.

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Reply to: We have a 12 inch overhang and it’s plenty for seating. Even my 6’5” husband who’s all legs has no issues sitting at the counter.

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Amisco Barry Swivel Stool 41445, 26", Counter Height

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Amisco Swan Swivel Stool 41496, 26", Counter Height

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Bookcase shelving idea

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Metal supports

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Small cabinets on ends with drawers in middle.

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Business_Name_Placeholder

Diagrams for spacing

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Reply to: Diagrams for spacing

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arch

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Like the end of cabinet

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JAN MOYER

An eight foot ceiling allows NO MORE THAN a total height for the light and its. mounting, chain, and fixture height......of 24 inches. ( 36 floor to counter top, 36 to to the bottom of the ficture leaves 24 to the ceiling ) A fixture 19 inches high is too large. you will have NO CHAIN at all. That is because the attachment at ceiling will use up four or five of those available 24 inches. Two fixtures , 14 inches high max, and 12 is even better.Two of these in the gilded finish, will look as exactly this ......on a nine foot island with an eight foot ceiling....it's te same light ( 14 inches h).....and see how little chain was used on install.,,,about three links. https://www.circalighting.com/darlana-mini-lantern-chc2175/ f These would also work as they are basically 12 high, 8.5 wide.......https://www.circalighting.com/hicks-small-pendant-tob5062/

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Reply to: An eight foot ceiling allows NO MORE THAN a total height for the light and its. mounting, chain, and fixture height......of 24 inches. ( 36 floor to counter top, 36 to to the bottom of the ficture leaves 24 to the ceiling ) A fixture 19 inches high is too large. you will have NO CHAIN at all. That is because the attachment at ceiling will use up four or five of those available 24 inches. Two fixtures , 14 inches high max, and 12 is even better.Two of these in the gilded finish, will look as exactly this ......on a nine foot island with an eight foot ceiling....it's te same light ( 14 inches h).....and see how little chain was used on install.,,,about three links. https://www.circalighting.com/darlana-mini-lantern-chc2175/ f These would also work as they are basically 12 high, 8.5 wide.......https://www.circalighting.com/hicks-small-pendant-tob5062/

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An eight foot ceiling allows NO MORE THAN a total height for the light and its. mounting, chain, and fixture height......of 24 inches. ( 36 floor to counter top, 36 to to the bottom of the ficture leaves 24 to the ceiling )

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DIY2Much2Do

We used 15" for counter height seating, and it's certainly not too much. Based on these guidelines, Rule #9... The Thirty-One Kitchen Design Rules, Illustrated

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Reply to: We used 15" for counter height seating, and it's certainly not too much. Based on these guidelines, Rule #9... The Thirty-One Kitchen Design Rules, Illustrated

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Buehl

Height is not the only factor...leg length is as well. Someone 6'4 could have shorter legs than someone 5'10" (speaking from experience here!) For me, at 5'10", I would absolutely not be comfortable w/a 9.5" overhang for either bar or counter height, especially if I were eating all meals there! My 6'5" DH originally told me our 15" counter-height overhang "was fine". But, when I pressed him, he finally admitted it was a bit too shallow . His reason for not saying so originally? There was nothing that could be done about it, so why mention it? I think we all sometimes tell ourselves that something is "OK" if there's nothing we can do about it. But, in the case of a kitchen remodel in progress, there often is something that can be done about it (assuming you're not trying to shoehorn seating into a space that's too small to handle it.) So, why "settle" for something that isn't the best. The NKBA recommends those minimum overhangs for a reason, not just to be difficult. People take up a certain amount of space regardless of the overhang. All you're doing by skimping on overhang is make it more uncomfortable for someone to sit at the counter, especially for an extended period of time. Why am I so emphatic about this? Because I think people should be given the best information out there, not what others have "made do with" for whatever reason. Go sit at counters to "try them out"...but do it for more than a minute or two and be sure you account for the height & leg length of everyone who will be using it, not just you. You should be able to sit straight in front of the counter w/your legs straight out from you (no putting them on an angle or spreading them to reach the counter). The overhang is too shallow if: You have to lean forward to reach the counter You have to sit sideways, even just a little. You have to "straddle" the cabinet (or wall) at all. I.e., if you have to spread your legs to allow yourself to move closer to the counter edge and cannot sit at the counter w/your legs together and straight in front of you If a shallow overhang works OK for you b/c you have short legs, you don't sit at and don't want others to sit at the counter for very long, or if you have no other choice b/c your kitchen size and/or layout cannot handle recommended seating measurements (be honest w/yourself), that's one thing...but I feel very strongly that we have a responsibility to tell people what the "best practices" are and what studies, etc. have shown works best in most situations. I had people, here and elsewhere, telling me over and over again that 12" would be fine for a counter-height overhang...I'm very glad I didn't listen to them! And remember, the NKBA recommendations are a minimum, if you have tall or long-legged people in your family, consider making it even deeper (I now wish we had made ours 18" even though it's counter height. It's OK for my DD & me, but not for my DH & DS.) [BTW, my KD was...

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Reply to: Height is not the only factor...leg length is as well. Someone 6'4 could have shorter legs than someone 5'10" (speaking from experience here!) For me, at 5'10", I would absolutely not be comfortable w/a 9.5" overhang for either bar or counter height, especially if I were eating all meals there! My 6'5" DH originally told me our 15" counter-height overhang "was fine". But, when I pressed him, he finally admitted it was a bit too shallow . His reason for not saying so originally? There was nothing that could be done about it, so why mention it? I think we all sometimes tell ourselves that something is "OK" if there's nothing we can do about it. But, in the case of a kitchen remodel in progress, there often is something that can be done about it (assuming you're not trying to shoehorn seating into a space that's too small to handle it.) So, why "settle" for something that isn't the best. The NKBA recommends those minimum overhangs for a reason, not just to be difficult. People take up a certain amount of space regardless of the overhang. All you're doing by skimping on overhang is make it more uncomfortable for someone to sit at the counter, especially for an extended period of time. Why am I so emphatic about this? Because I think people should be given the best information out there, not what others have "made do with" for whatever reason. Go sit at counters to "try them out"...but do it for more than a minute or two and be sure you account for the height & leg length of everyone who will be using it, not just you. You should be able to sit straight in front of the counter w/your legs straight out from you (no putting them on an angle or spreading them to reach the counter). The overhang is too shallow if: You have to lean forward to reach the counter You have to sit sideways, even just a little. You have to "straddle" the cabinet (or wall) at all. I.e., if you have to spread your legs to allow yourself to move closer to the counter edge and cannot sit at the counter w/your legs together and straight in front of you If a shallow overhang works OK for you b/c you have short legs, you don't sit at and don't want others to sit at the counter for very long, or if you have no other choice b/c your kitchen size and/or layout cannot handle recommended seating measurements (be honest w/yourself), that's one thing...but I feel very strongly that we have a responsibility to tell people what the "best practices" are and what studies, etc. have shown works best in most situations. I had people, here and elsewhere, telling me over and over again that 12" would be fine for a counter-height overhang...I'm very glad I didn't listen to them! And remember, the NKBA recommendations are a minimum, if you have tall or long-legged people in your family, consider making it even deeper (I now wish we had made ours 18" even though it's counter height. It's OK for my DD & me, but not for my DH & DS.) [BTW, my KD was...

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You should be able to sit straight in front of the counter w/your legs straight out from you (no putting them on an angle or spreading them to reach the counter). The overhang is too shallow if: You have to lean forward to reach the counter You have to sit sideways, even just a little. You have to "straddle" the cabinet (or wall) at all. I.e., if you have to spread your legs to allow yourself to move closer to the counter edge and cannot sit at the counter w/your legs together and straight in front of you

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Corbels

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