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kitchen

dmann33
dmann33
Comment
davidro1

What I have found in general about IKEA Kitchens: Adds useable space to a kitchen by going frameless. Sleek full overlay look; Euro-style metabox drawer. Ikea's $ priority is hardware (hinges, sliders). Full extension drawers, and soft close doors / drawers. Dampers ARE available for the 153 degree hinges, not from IKEA, but from a Blum hardware rep. A flat fluorescent light panel can replace the floor of the 30" and the 39" upper cabinets. (It's an IKEA Rationell lighting product). Tall wall oven cabinets are the same depth as base cabinets. Cabinet sides are joined by cam locks and dowels. Finishing quality is good. Backs are not solid and that is fine, A-OK. The Depth of an IKEA cabinet can be cut back to less than 22" deep because the sliders are not longer than 21.5" (Mod not warrantee'd by IKEA). White face frames can be dealt with pretty easily. To Use Available Space under the 30"high Base Cabinets, put drawer boxes between the legs and cover the front as you wish. Drawer fronts come in 6" / 6.25" / 11.25" + 12.75" / 12"+12" heights. A 15" high ("deep") drawer front can be made from a 15"x30" door turned sideways. Steep learning curve not friendly for first-timers, to uncover the above info. Ordering and assembly is easy, even with modifications and customizing orders (deselecting components, adding others). Regardless of images seen on the web or in store documents, anything can be bought separately. --- Except for certain drawer fronts which come only in kits of 4 (and not 4 of the same). --- Except for the drawer front facing which you need for interior drawers: these are specific hardware pieces connected to the remaining portion of the drawer; these must be specified to be included in orders for interior drawers. ... and still learning: You can make your own Pull-Outs (18"w, 21"w, 24"w, 30"w, 36"w) --- Also, you can install a wire basket instead of an interior drawer. --- Also, you can install a Variera "pullout basket" instead of an interior drawer. E.g. under a sink, depending on shape of sink. A Pull-Out can have 2 Attached drawers instead of just One. The Top one's attachment can be removable, with compatible Blum hardware, not available from IKEA. (See Blum site). To get a Two-Level Cutlery Drawer, put a shallow interior drawer inside a regular drawer. Some Finishing Panels are 3/8" thick, some 1/2", some 5/8", some 3/4". To get a handle-less look A.) Use Strecket handles, or make your own handles even more discrete than Strecket. B.) Use no handles and plan for only two high drawers, with a gap above the top drawer. The gap allows one to reach the top of the drawer front in order to pull from there. Under the lower drawer one uses a foot to pull that drawer. Not optimal but it works. C.) Use Solar drawer fronts. Please confirm or comment if anything above is inaccurate or not true. Thank you for your comments! -- David

Q

Reply to: What I have found in general about IKEA Kitchens: Adds useable space to a kitchen by going frameless. Sleek full overlay look; Euro-style metabox drawer. Ikea's $ priority is hardware (hinges, sliders). Full extension drawers, and soft close doors / drawers. Dampers ARE available for the 153 degree hinges, not from IKEA, but from a Blum hardware rep. A flat fluorescent light panel can replace the floor of the 30" and the 39" upper cabinets. (It's an IKEA Rationell lighting product). Tall wall oven cabinets are the same depth as base cabinets. Cabinet sides are joined by cam locks and dowels. Finishing quality is good. Backs are not solid and that is fine, A-OK. The Depth of an IKEA cabinet can be cut back to less than 22" deep because the sliders are not longer than 21.5" (Mod not warrantee'd by IKEA). White face frames can be dealt with pretty easily. To Use Available Space under the 30"high Base Cabinets, put drawer boxes between the legs and cover the front as you wish. Drawer fronts come in 6" / 6.25" / 11.25" + 12.75" / 12"+12" heights. A 15" high ("deep") drawer front can be made from a 15"x30" door turned sideways. Steep learning curve not friendly for first-timers, to uncover the above info. Ordering and assembly is easy, even with modifications and customizing orders (deselecting components, adding others). Regardless of images seen on the web or in store documents, anything can be bought separately. --- Except for certain drawer fronts which come only in kits of 4 (and not 4 of the same). --- Except for the drawer front facing which you need for interior drawers: these are specific hardware pieces connected to the remaining portion of the drawer; these must be specified to be included in orders for interior drawers. ... and still learning: You can make your own Pull-Outs (18"w, 21"w, 24"w, 30"w, 36"w) --- Also, you can install a wire basket instead of an interior drawer. --- Also, you can install a Variera "pullout basket" instead of an interior drawer. E.g. under a sink, depending on shape of sink. A Pull-Out can have 2 Attached drawers instead of just One. The Top one's attachment can be removable, with compatible Blum hardware, not available from IKEA. (See Blum site). To get a Two-Level Cutlery Drawer, put a shallow interior drawer inside a regular drawer. Some Finishing Panels are 3/8" thick, some 1/2", some 5/8", some 3/4". To get a handle-less look A.) Use Strecket handles, or make your own handles even more discrete than Strecket. B.) Use no handles and plan for only two high drawers, with a gap above the top drawer. The gap allows one to reach the top of the drawer front in order to pull from there. Under the lower drawer one uses a foot to pull that drawer. Not optimal but it works. C.) Use Solar drawer fronts. Please confirm or comment if anything above is inaccurate or not true. Thank you for your comments! -- David

Q

Story
Mitchell Parker
Mitchell Parker

35 Home Design Trends on the Rise in 2023

Q

Comment
User

Standard operating procedures; frame a door opening where the refrigerator goes without disturbing the sheetrock on the other side of the wall, then add an 1 1/2 thick wall in the door opening for support of sheetrock and electrical. Then purchase 27" deep refrigerator end panels for each side. Pull the upper cabinet out to be flush with end panels. These panels stick out 3" past your lower cabinets. This gives you the proper finished look so your counter top overhang has something to stop against.

Q

Reply to: Standard operating procedures; frame a door opening where the refrigerator goes without disturbing the sheetrock on the other side of the wall, then add an 1 1/2 thick wall in the door opening for support of sheetrock and electrical. Then purchase 27" deep refrigerator end panels for each side. Pull the upper cabinet out to be flush with end panels. These panels stick out 3" past your lower cabinets. This gives you the proper finished look so your counter top overhang has something to stop against.

Q

Comment
Wow Great Place

Two options: Build the cabinets (or at least their side panels) around the fridge at 30" deep, which will make the fridge appear more built-in (fridge doors only would project past the cabinets) Photo below shows how we did just that in a recent kitchen project. OR, you can remove the drywall behind the fridge, and change the framing, to make a niche, sort of a hidden, deeper area JUST behind the fridge area, no need to move the entire wall, and the fridge then recesses back about 3-4" into the wall, making it appear more built-in.

Q

Reply to: Two options: Build the cabinets (or at least their side panels) around the fridge at 30" deep, which will make the fridge appear more built-in (fridge doors only would project past the cabinets) Photo below shows how we did just that in a recent kitchen project. OR, you can remove the drywall behind the fridge, and change the framing, to make a niche, sort of a hidden, deeper area JUST behind the fridge area, no need to move the entire wall, and the fridge then recesses back about 3-4" into the wall, making it appear more built-in.

Q

Comment
Bill Fry Construction - Wm. H. Fry Const. Co.

Here's an example where we got a built-in look without the built-in cost: :) Rhoda

Q

Reply to: Here's an example where we got a built-in look without the built-in cost: :) Rhoda

Q

Comment
rkwrightj

This was less expensive than buying a new fridge. Sure, it extends the existing cabinet profile, but it's a much cleaner look. I did the labor myself, so this project only cost about $50 in materials (2x3's, drywall, screws, tape, mud, corner bead, paint.)

Q

Reply to: This was less expensive than buying a new fridge. Sure, it extends the existing cabinet profile, but it's a much cleaner look. I did the labor myself, so this project only cost about $50 in materials (2x3's, drywall, screws, tape, mud, corner bead, paint.)

Q

Comment
cpartist

You say layout won't change but I hope you ditch that corner cabinet and the over the stove microwave for a proper range hood that's safer. Having an over a gas stove MW is an accident waiting to happen. :( As for the corner cabinet, you'd be better off with a cabinet that dies into the wall and keep the window wall open without uppers. Additionally if you make all your lowers drawers, you'll be able to store so much more in them, including your everyday dishes. I did all drawers in my new build and now I'm sold on how much more functional and easy they are to use. As for color, take a look at your wardrobe to give yourself an idea of what you lean towards. Is it the same as the colors in your house? If so, I'm guessing you won't tire of them in a few years. Or have you consistantly throughout your adult life used these colors in your houses? In the last 25 years, I realized I consistantly pick variations of the same couple of colors for my houses. The shades may change slightly but my houses have all been shades of tans, lighter greens and accents of reds.

Q

Reply to: You say layout won't change but I hope you ditch that corner cabinet and the over the stove microwave for a proper range hood that's safer. Having an over a gas stove MW is an accident waiting to happen. :( As for the corner cabinet, you'd be better off with a cabinet that dies into the wall and keep the window wall open without uppers. Additionally if you make all your lowers drawers, you'll be able to store so much more in them, including your everyday dishes. I did all drawers in my new build and now I'm sold on how much more functional and easy they are to use. As for color, take a look at your wardrobe to give yourself an idea of what you lean towards. Is it the same as the colors in your house? If so, I'm guessing you won't tire of them in a few years. Or have you consistantly throughout your adult life used these colors in your houses? In the last 25 years, I realized I consistantly pick variations of the same couple of colors for my houses. The shades may change slightly but my houses have all been shades of tans, lighter greens and accents of reds.

Q

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