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Kitchen Venting

Whitney Lemons
Whitney Lemons
Discussion
Danielle
57

Building a minimalist range hood out of drywall or plaster

Q

Comment
deetle63

For the vent http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-RC12P-RC12P-Roof-Cap-Black-Painted-Steel-12-Duct For make up air http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-FML12-FML12-Fixed-Metal-Hood-for-Supply-or-Exhaust-12-Duct-Single-Unit

Q

Reply to: For the vent http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-RC12P-RC12P-Roof-Cap-Black-Painted-Steel-12-Duct For make up air http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-FML12-FML12-Fixed-Metal-Hood-for-Supply-or-Exhaust-12-Duct-Single-Unit

Q

Comment
deetle63

In respect to noise . I have a 2000 cfm fan with 12 duct for my 48" wolf with grill . Works great . But it was way to loude without a muffler . http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-LD12-Galvanized-Steel-Silencer-for-12-Duct after I added on of these it's quieter then many 400 cfm hoods .

Q

Reply to: In respect to noise . I have a 2000 cfm fan with 12 duct for my 48" wolf with grill . Works great . But it was way to loude without a muffler . http://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-LD12-Galvanized-Steel-Silencer-for-12-Duct after I added on of these it's quieter then many 400 cfm hoods .

Q

Comment
kaseki

katy-lou: I used Q-pads by Evercoat, Part No. 100116. These are lead-loaded vinyl [I think] and are about 5 lbs per square foot. One side is sticky with a peel-off sheet. They should be available from any automotive parts store that caters to body shops. They can also be found on-line, but shipping cost may be high. While capable of indefinite attachment to car doors when put on with a heat gun, they shouldn't be trusted to remain attached to a duct (likely still having a factory oil film) in all orientations without some help. I used very long nylon Ty-Wrap type straps to encircle the duct sections. For those expecting the assembly to endure a grease fire up the duct, stainless steel strapping also exists, and may be available from MSC. The q-pads can certainly stand any normal duct temperature. Another product reported on in this forum was Dynamat. I have no experience with it. kas

Q

Reply to: katy-lou: I used Q-pads by Evercoat, Part No. 100116. These are lead-loaded vinyl [I think] and are about 5 lbs per square foot. One side is sticky with a peel-off sheet. They should be available from any automotive parts store that caters to body shops. They can also be found on-line, but shipping cost may be high. While capable of indefinite attachment to car doors when put on with a heat gun, they shouldn't be trusted to remain attached to a duct (likely still having a factory oil film) in all orientations without some help. I used very long nylon Ty-Wrap type straps to encircle the duct sections. For those expecting the assembly to endure a grease fire up the duct, stainless steel strapping also exists, and may be available from MSC. The q-pads can certainly stand any normal duct temperature. Another product reported on in this forum was Dynamat. I have no experience with it. kas

Q

Comment
capecodcook

No pictures, I'm sorry-no digital camera; I'm too old school I guess. Ours is 34" above the stove top. The goal is to get the open part of the hood over the front of the front burner. Remember, the front two or three inches of the underside of the hood is taken up with light and fan switches and lights, so your capture area is only about 21" deep measured from the back. So how much you need to bump it out is a function of the size of the opening of the hood and the depth of your range. Our contractor built a rectangular frame of two layers of 2x6s the size of the perimeter of the back of the hood to which the hood could be screwed. Could be three layers for a 4.5" depth. We had a sheetmetal shop fab a long strip of stainless 3" wide the length of the frame (3 sides only, didn't need to cover the top.) This came with little "flanges" about 1/4" deep bent 90 degrees to the flat side along all one side that tucked behind the back of the hood so no wood would be exposed. The strip was secured to the frame with oval headed screws set into those little metal oval head finishing washers for a cleaner look. At a quick glance, you don't even know the hood is built out. I know this is not as clear as a picture, but I hope it helps.

Q

Reply to: No pictures, I'm sorry-no digital camera; I'm too old school I guess. Ours is 34" above the stove top. The goal is to get the open part of the hood over the front of the front burner. Remember, the front two or three inches of the underside of the hood is taken up with light and fan switches and lights, so your capture area is only about 21" deep measured from the back. So how much you need to bump it out is a function of the size of the opening of the hood and the depth of your range. Our contractor built a rectangular frame of two layers of 2x6s the size of the perimeter of the back of the hood to which the hood could be screwed. Could be three layers for a 4.5" depth. We had a sheetmetal shop fab a long strip of stainless 3" wide the length of the frame (3 sides only, didn't need to cover the top.) This came with little "flanges" about 1/4" deep bent 90 degrees to the flat side along all one side that tucked behind the back of the hood so no wood would be exposed. The strip was secured to the frame with oval headed screws set into those little metal oval head finishing washers for a cleaner look. At a quick glance, you don't even know the hood is built out. I know this is not as clear as a picture, but I hope it helps.

Q

Photo
Photo
Comment
sochi

You’re welcome, happy I can help. 1) drywall 2) yes, drywall again. Posted pics below 3) hmm, I’m not sure. Pretty sure it’s hallow. Uplights were an afterthought, we really like them. 4) I’ve never noticed a tackiness or grease, but just went and checked. Feels fine. We have three kids in the house at the moment, so cook perhaps a little more than average. Grease hasn’t been an issue, but we don’t pan fry much. 5) quartzite. I’ve used quartzite in two kitchens now, love love it and wouldn’t use anything else.

Q

Reply to: You’re welcome, happy I can help. 1) drywall 2) yes, drywall again. Posted pics below 3) hmm, I’m not sure. Pretty sure it’s hallow. Uplights were an afterthought, we really like them. 4) I’ve never noticed a tackiness or grease, but just went and checked. Feels fine. We have three kids in the house at the moment, so cook perhaps a little more than average. Grease hasn’t been an issue, but we don’t pan fry much. 5) quartzite. I’ve used quartzite in two kitchens now, love love it and wouldn’t use anything else.

Q

Discussion
sochi
28

Shelf or no shelf flanking hood fan?

Q

Comment
sochi

Hi there - yes I did do it in the end. Here is an iPhone pic, sorry about the light blobs!

Q

Reply to: Hi there - yes I did do it in the end. Here is an iPhone pic, sorry about the light blobs!

Q

Comment
sochi

Closer without the lights on

Q

Reply to: Closer without the lights on

Q

Comment
sochi

Q

Reply to:

Q

Comment
kaseki

Please review the first dozen pages or so of Greenheck's guide for general principles of kitchen venting. http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf.  Although this document addresses commercial kitchens, the principles addressed apply to residential pseudo-Pro cooking installations. You will find on page 9 that electric and gas char broilers require more specific air flow (feet per minute air velocity equals CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture) than general cooking does. If your hood is only as large as your cooktop, and say 24 inches of front-to-back entry aperture distance, then the opening is 8 square feet, and it would be appropriate to achieve 8 sq. ft x up-to-185 CFM/sq. ft. This value is nearly 1500 CFM by itself, and doesn't account for the fan curve reduction in flow pulling air past the baffles and other pressure losses. Note that the commercial units in the table of Greenheck's Figure 4 may be larger than your range's broiler, as will be the hood sizes, and depending on the unstated size relative to the broiler under consideration, may allow operation of a residential gas char broiler at less the 185 ft/min value. But it won't be as low as the 85 value in the Medium column. Silencers come from Fantech, and for a 10-inch duct are 14-inches in diameter and 3 ft long.. They won't fit in a wall between a hood and an exterior wall blower or wall cap. They need some duct length. It is a bad idea to dump the cooking effluent into an outside sitting area. You will get grease on everything in spite of conventional hood baffles or VaH magic lung blowers throwing the grease particulates at the hood structures hoping for impingement. VaH blowers are at best rated for their behavior in the hood, which doesn't for them have separate baffles. However, if significant ducting or MUA pressure losses are present, their claimed 1.5 X equivalent performance erodes faster than conventional blowers defined by their fan curves. Thus each option needs to be separately analyzed. I think for this relatively extravagant residential kitchen appliance, a more commercial approach to venting will be needed, and the vented air needs to be eliminated at a roof line using a down-slope centrifugal blower such as Wolf or Broan supply, or preferably upwards using a modest sized up-blast blower. This may require use of an outside chase to get out of the patio area. Generally, a remote blower with an in-line silencer will have the lowest noise at the cook's ear. I would like to see the size of the air exchange module that can handle 1500 CFM of MUA. Normally, the MUA is supplied either passively with limited heating and filtering, or with its own blower and control system. MUA issues can be researched here in many MUA related threads. I would just note that dealing with the MUA aspect is often more complex than the venting aspect.

Q

Reply to: Please review the first dozen pages or so of Greenheck's guide for general principles of kitchen venting. http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf.  Although this document addresses commercial kitchens, the principles addressed apply to residential pseudo-Pro cooking installations. You will find on page 9 that electric and gas char broilers require more specific air flow (feet per minute air velocity equals CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture) than general cooking does. If your hood is only as large as your cooktop, and say 24 inches of front-to-back entry aperture distance, then the opening is 8 square feet, and it would be appropriate to achieve 8 sq. ft x up-to-185 CFM/sq. ft. This value is nearly 1500 CFM by itself, and doesn't account for the fan curve reduction in flow pulling air past the baffles and other pressure losses. Note that the commercial units in the table of Greenheck's Figure 4 may be larger than your range's broiler, as will be the hood sizes, and depending on the unstated size relative to the broiler under consideration, may allow operation of a residential gas char broiler at less the 185 ft/min value. But it won't be as low as the 85 value in the Medium column. Silencers come from Fantech, and for a 10-inch duct are 14-inches in diameter and 3 ft long.. They won't fit in a wall between a hood and an exterior wall blower or wall cap. They need some duct length. It is a bad idea to dump the cooking effluent into an outside sitting area. You will get grease on everything in spite of conventional hood baffles or VaH magic lung blowers throwing the grease particulates at the hood structures hoping for impingement. VaH blowers are at best rated for their behavior in the hood, which doesn't for them have separate baffles. However, if significant ducting or MUA pressure losses are present, their claimed 1.5 X equivalent performance erodes faster than conventional blowers defined by their fan curves. Thus each option needs to be separately analyzed. I think for this relatively extravagant residential kitchen appliance, a more commercial approach to venting will be needed, and the vented air needs to be eliminated at a roof line using a down-slope centrifugal blower such as Wolf or Broan supply, or preferably upwards using a modest sized up-blast blower. This may require use of an outside chase to get out of the patio area. Generally, a remote blower with an in-line silencer will have the lowest noise at the cook's ear. I would like to see the size of the air exchange module that can handle 1500 CFM of MUA. Normally, the MUA is supplied either passively with limited heating and filtering, or with its own blower and control system. MUA issues can be researched here in many MUA related threads. I would just note that dealing with the MUA aspect is often more complex than the venting aspect.

Q

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