Window Trim

Reply to: No tapered apron--all square cuts! I prefer the head trim to project an inch beyond the jamb trim, with a square cut, and an additional molding which projects beyond the head molding another inch. The additional molding can be below the head molding, below it, or both as the photos illustrate. Trim is a very personal thing for each architect, and, of course, should echo the architectural syle of the house. I like these approaches because, to me they have an interesting, somewhat historical and vernacular appearance without being overly complicated. and, Good luck!

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Reply to: This room is vaulted so no cove crown but a pretty good pic of 9 inch base and 6 inch casing. Doors are 8 ft This is one of the upstairs bedrooms - 6 inch casings and cove crown, also 6 inches. For comparison, we went with 4 inch casings on these small windows to blend with B & B. This doorway was also ripped down for the tight space.

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Reply to: First of all, what's with the angled apron? It should follow straight down from the window trim. Have your trim guy try the trim with a 1 x 6 instead or even a full 6" piece. The sill size might be a bit beefy, but I like beefy. Have your finish guy slightly ease the edges of the sill. Also look up old craftsman houses as that trim you want was quite common in those older homes. While I'm not doing the backband you can see mine for comparison. I have 1 x 6 trim around all windows and the apron is I believe a 1 x 4. If you'd like I can measure my sill width later.

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Reply to: you can get double hungs that arent divided in the center, rather the bottom section is 2/3 of the window, that might allow the 'single row' format. otherwise i'd go with 2 over 2s.

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