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Misc Ideas

missenigma
missenigma
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Jazz Lover

Beth, you were so right my last house had glass tile! it is porcelain subway tile-And thanks flo. Here is the picture of the box. I hope it helps!

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Reply to: Beth, you were so right my last house had glass tile! it is porcelain subway tile-And thanks flo. Here is the picture of the box. I hope it helps!

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Patricia Colwell Consulting

I have a 1956 MCM ranch and the very first thing we did is do the kitchen those kitchens were awful and the function not really there . In face we moved the kitchen to the DR space and made the old kitchen out DR. I think the reason we redid the kitchen is because we do not live in 1956 and there are so many huge improvements in appliances, lighting cabinets why not move into this century but with some respect to the past. The 1 st pic is the old kitchen all closed in and the next is the DR we put in there after removing walls and then the new kitchen IMO a huge improvement without destroying the house . We added windows at the back where the kitchen was and patio doors but but kept all the other windows across the front and left the exterior alone.

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Reply to: I have a 1956 MCM ranch and the very first thing we did is do the kitchen those kitchens were awful and the function not really there . In face we moved the kitchen to the DR space and made the old kitchen out DR. I think the reason we redid the kitchen is because we do not live in 1956 and there are so many huge improvements in appliances, lighting cabinets why not move into this century but with some respect to the past. The 1 st pic is the old kitchen all closed in and the next is the DR we put in there after removing walls and then the new kitchen IMO a huge improvement without destroying the house . We added windows at the back where the kitchen was and patio doors but but kept all the other windows across the front and left the exterior alone.

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Joseph Corlett, LLC

"The cabinet designer warned me that there’s often a weird glitch when installing an undermount sink in a Dekton countertop. The builder already ordered the sink, the Elkay Crosstown 35” stainless farmhouse. I need to find out more about the problem of using Dekton with an undermount. Do any of you know what that’s about —- and if there is a fix? Can I even use Dekton with this sink?" That sink probably comes with mechanical clips that Elkay expects you to drill into the Dekton. You drill into Dekton and you've probably voided the warranty. Throw those clips out. Please. Elkay provides them with their Quartz Luxe too. I've installed more than 50 of those and threw out the clips every time. No callbacks; no leaks. Strap the sink in place with a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a Sink Strap or two from Gran Quartz. I don't care if the sink sets on a cabinet shelf. Tear out the shelf out and use the straps. Shelves can't push sinks up; straps can. No glitches; that ^ is the fix. You can use Dekton with this sink.

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Reply to: "The cabinet designer warned me that there’s often a weird glitch when installing an undermount sink in a Dekton countertop. The builder already ordered the sink, the Elkay Crosstown 35” stainless farmhouse. I need to find out more about the problem of using Dekton with an undermount. Do any of you know what that’s about —- and if there is a fix? Can I even use Dekton with this sink?" That sink probably comes with mechanical clips that Elkay expects you to drill into the Dekton. You drill into Dekton and you've probably voided the warranty. Throw those clips out. Please. Elkay provides them with their Quartz Luxe too. I've installed more than 50 of those and threw out the clips every time. No callbacks; no leaks. Strap the sink in place with a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a Sink Strap or two from Gran Quartz. I don't care if the sink sets on a cabinet shelf. Tear out the shelf out and use the straps. Shelves can't push sinks up; straps can. No glitches; that ^ is the fix. You can use Dekton with this sink.

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Flo Mangan

Here are some off whites for you as benchmarks.

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Reply to: Here are some off whites for you as benchmarks.

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SJ McCarthy

StreetShoe is used on Basket ball courts in the USA. I have no hands-on-knowledge of Pall-X. Personally I prefer Loba 2K Supra AT or Bona Traffic HD for their SUPERIOR wear characteristics. These are the best of the best. Even StreetShoe doesn't have the same properties.

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Reply to: StreetShoe is used on Basket ball courts in the USA. I have no hands-on-knowledge of Pall-X. Personally I prefer Loba 2K Supra AT or Bona Traffic HD for their SUPERIOR wear characteristics. These are the best of the best. Even StreetShoe doesn't have the same properties.

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jenj
140

Small 1928 Kitchen Reveal - Before/After Photos and ALL the Details

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darbuka

Same drawers, open. I have pulls on uppers and lowers. Pulls are more ergonomic than knobs, and do a much better job of keeping fingers from touching door and drawer fronts.

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Reply to: Same drawers, open. I have pulls on uppers and lowers. Pulls are more ergonomic than knobs, and do a much better job of keeping fingers from touching door and drawer fronts.

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Beth H. :

those cabs are very nice. changing them to gray would be a huge mistake, as previously stated. And, do you have any idea what it would cost to get those done? prob in the 6-8K range. For that price you could get a brand new countertop and backsplash in a whiter shade, and solve your problem. That's a whole lot of golds/red/orange.... remove the two middle issues, replace w/cooler whites. also, for now, try to change the light bulbs to 4000K. bring in a natural jute rug to throw down in the middle of the wood floor to also break up the reds/yellows. look at these pics w/white countertops and splashes. doing the counters/splash will be night and day. (and your wall color) BTW, soapstone looks beautiful with cherry if you really must paint, you could do two tone cabs and just paint the fridge side cabinets. although I did find one w/gray cabinets on the side.

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Reply to: those cabs are very nice. changing them to gray would be a huge mistake, as previously stated. And, do you have any idea what it would cost to get those done? prob in the 6-8K range. For that price you could get a brand new countertop and backsplash in a whiter shade, and solve your problem. That's a whole lot of golds/red/orange.... remove the two middle issues, replace w/cooler whites. also, for now, try to change the light bulbs to 4000K. bring in a natural jute rug to throw down in the middle of the wood floor to also break up the reds/yellows. look at these pics w/white countertops and splashes. doing the counters/splash will be night and day. (and your wall color) BTW, soapstone looks beautiful with cherry if you really must paint, you could do two tone cabs and just paint the fridge side cabinets. although I did find one w/gray cabinets on the side.

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BM Sweet Spring is the wall color.

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Walls are Grant Beige

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Walls are Abingdon Putty

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Walls are Abingdon Putty

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Design Intervention

The other consideration is whether you live really close to the ocean or not. Our projects are almost all on the beach coast of California and because of the indoor-outdoor living prevalent in our design we take the salt air into consideration when picking. Because of the use of the large movable glass walls and bifold glass walls that we use on lots of projects, the entire living area is open to the ocean has effect on more than just exterior choices. Let’s take a look at some of the most common finishes available for architectural ironmongery, and assess whether they are suitable for exterior coastal use. Solid Brass: YES if unlacquered, NO if Lacquered. Polished Chrome: YES if used on a solid brass base metal, NO if used on a zamak base metal. Satin Chrome: YES if used on a solid brass base metal, NO if used on a zamak base metal. Satin Nickel: YES if used on a solid brass base metal, NO if used on a zamak base metal. Antique Brass: YES if the finish is created by oxidization, NO if it is a plated finish. Black Ironmongery: YES but with care and maintenance Porcelain and Ceramic: YES. Aluminium: NO. Wood and Timber: YES but with care and maintenance. Stainless Steel: Grade 316 only, may corrode by the sea. Solid Pewter: YES Plain Cast Iron: NO Glass: YES, but be aware of the base metal of the rose or backplate.

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Reply to: The other consideration is whether you live really close to the ocean or not. Our projects are almost all on the beach coast of California and because of the indoor-outdoor living prevalent in our design we take the salt air into consideration when picking. Because of the use of the large movable glass walls and bifold glass walls that we use on lots of projects, the entire living area is open to the ocean has effect on more than just exterior choices. Let’s take a look at some of the most common finishes available for architectural ironmongery, and assess whether they are suitable for exterior coastal use. Solid Brass: YES if unlacquered, NO if Lacquered. Polished Chrome: YES if used on a solid brass base metal, NO if used on a zamak base metal. Satin Chrome: YES if used on a solid brass base metal, NO if used on a zamak base metal. Satin Nickel: YES if used on a solid brass base metal, NO if used on a zamak base metal. Antique Brass: YES if the finish is created by oxidization, NO if it is a plated finish. Black Ironmongery: YES but with care and maintenance Porcelain and Ceramic: YES. Aluminium: NO. Wood and Timber: YES but with care and maintenance. Stainless Steel: Grade 316 only, may corrode by the sea. Solid Pewter: YES Plain Cast Iron: NO Glass: YES, but be aware of the base metal of the rose or backplate.

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