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Reply to: @Nancy... and I am by no means an expert... but my dad and I just renovated a small investment condo and I picked origami white for the walls. It was tiny and only had two windows and a sliding glass door in the whole place. The origami white has a slight grey tint to it. It was a nice, modern white.

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Reply to: Laurel Bern Interiors recommends these six whites for trim that covers all the basics......Benjamin Moore Paints Simply White OC 117, White Dove OC 17, Cotton Balls OC 122, Linen White OC 912, Cloud White OC 967, Ivory White OC 925. Try these SIX sample colors and I think one will be perfect. Her Blog goes into greater detail and has pictures of rooms painted in these colors. Good luck. It really does get easier! Let us know what you think.

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Reply to: Agreeable Gray's hue family notation is 2.33 Y. If you locate it on the color wheel, it's at the top between Snowfall and Snowbound. The rules for partnering whites with near neutrals, like Agreeable Gray, is they both need to be from the same, immediate hue family neighborhood - OR - you need a white that lives in a hue family neighborhood that's farther away BUT not too far. Too far away and there's no hue family relationship and it looks weird (technically called discordant). In the case of Agreeable Gray, good options for white from its same hue family neighborhood would be Snowbound and Alabaster. Result is a lower contrast color relationship between white trim color and the wall color. Far enough away but not too far would be Simply White and Pure White. Result is a higher contrast color relationship and ya get more "pop" (as they say). Chroma also matters. Chroma answers the question 'how gray is a paint color'. Like LRV, there is a chroma scale that you can use to compare the grayness of colors. The lower the chroma number, the more grayness. When it comes to pairing whites with near neutrals, you have to get the chromaticity contrast right as well. If you don't, the result is either discordant or each color will make the other look sad and muddy. For example, I don't like Cotton Balls or Cloud White with Agreeable Gray. CB and CW have too much chroma, they're too colorful, not gray enough to harmonize well with Agreeable Gray. They're "ok" but in comparison Pure White or Snowbound are better options because they're more gray, they have less chroma (colorfulness). So, that's it. You just have to get the hue family right and the degree of chromaticity right. In terms of how they look in situ, the light is always boss. But odds are if you get the color relationship technically correct using spectral data, that harmony transfers to the 3-dimensional built environment and holds true. (and you're welcome :D)

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Reply to: Do a simple, cheap white granite add some hardware to the cabinets (they aren't that bad), Like this. do a cheap white tile. Done. hardware is like jewelry for cabinets. buy in the contractors pack for a better deal. Look at Cosmas over on Amazon. or, go for a honed black granite and a nice glass subway tile. change out your sink. Oh, remove those frilly curtains and get a nice blind (if you need one) And not a mini blind! change out the pendant light roman blind. so much better looking. check out her redo on this kitchen: https://nestingwithgrace.com/6-week-design-challenge-revel/ if you go w/granite/quartz, have them cut a piece to fit your window sill (remove that molding around the window). then do your tiling around the window, all the way up. grab a new sink too get a nice larger sisal or jute rug and cover the tiles. Here's a nice kitchen redo where she did white quartz, white tile splash (do NOT get the 4" piece if you plan on doing tile) and pretty rug to go in front of the sink area. New pendant. Here. look at this redo. pretend these are your wood cabinets. find some white quartz or granite (check some 1/2 slabs or Pre-fab countertops for a better price) Pulls on the cabinets, a nice roman blind (blinds.com) and a cool pendant light. bring in some sisal rugs. Or, can you paint those tiles? see the pic above? you could paint and stencil. time consuming, but it's a cool look. Give me 1500 bucks. I'll give you a brand new looking kitchen!

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Reply to: I just knew they were going to come in and do that. They're scrambling to placate you. Why would they suddenly do this? Because you complained?? That green board is not suitable for a shower, and that product should NOT, NEVER be applied onto green board. It's clearly states on it's technical data that it shouldn't be used in showers. EVER. Aquadefense can go over gypsum board, but only in "approved areas". Building code (IRC, etc) prohibits using paper-faced gypsum board products as tile backer boards in showers and tub surrounds, even if the paper facing and the gypsum core of the wallboard are moisture resistant. I've posted a slew of links and info for you to educate yourself. up to you if you want to read all of them. You really should. Notice,,it specifically says, "cementitious or masonry" and the last bullet,,,it's not a vapor barrier. so moisture will still penetrate that blue stuff into the green board. Is there a vapor barrier behind your green board? like tar paper and plastic sheeting over your studs? if not, moisture will still get through. You still have NO waterproofing. the green board lays on the wood studs. if the moisture gets through and wets the green board, and it's sitting on the wood studs that hold up your walls, what do you think will be the result in a few years? AQUAFIN®-2K/M Flexible Cementitious Protective & Waterproof Coating/Membrane Technical Datasheet Typical Applications: Above or below grade exterior applications. Horizontal, vertical, or overhead applications to concrete, cementitiousoverlays, masonry, brick and parging (render). Above grade block (CMU) and concrete substrates as a waterproofingbase coat under stucco/texture coats. Breathable (not a vapor barrier) https://www.aquafin.net/us/en/files/aquafin-2km-86218875-c865-4f30-8113-2c7ef4285236/TDS_Aquafin-2KM%20100219.pdf Look, right now these guys are scrambling for damage control and hoping you won't know the difference. Go look up the specs for green board. Go find the part that says, "green board can be used in wet areas and can be coated w/waterproofing membranes." I already know what it says but I'll wait here for you to find it. (i'll save you the time. It doesn't say you can do it) right here they talk about using the aqua stuff over green board. ALL of the pros there say nope. not approved. and mold will eventually become an issue. is that what you want? https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=121980 Most of the manufacturers of direct bonded waterproofing membranes will tell you, in a candid moment, that their products will work quite well over a gypsum backing board in a shower, they just can't publish that due to the current code restriction on the use of such gypsum products in wet areas. Shower might last a long time if the work was done well, but it's still not an acceptable installation according to building code and tile industry standards. The junction of the gypsum board and the tub is the most likely point of early failure and the place where your installer probably didn't do what would be necessary if he wasn't even aware that the MR Board wasn't correct for the application. (Meaning, all those places that weren't taped, and where silicone caulking was not used) And what about all the other goofs? nothing was taped and mortared. (not that it matters because this substrate is not suitable for a shower! please read this link as to why: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=126842 Is Greenboard Allowed for Wet Applications? another dilemma w/greeboard https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=80491 I'll say it again. You're getting hosed and they're taking advantage of you. the shower was built incorrectly. a year or two down the road when it begins to crumble and mold overtakes the bathroom, do you think they will come back to fix it for you? You're paying to have a shower tiled correctly. why should you pay for something that is doomed to fail and possibly be hazardous to your health? Not to mention the other issues w/water seepage that could occur to the rest of house. I've, We've, given you all the information. Up to you what you do with it.

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Reply to: I was adding more to my comment as you were writing, so make sure you reread. I posted a few links over at JohnBridge that deal exactly with your same materials. have a read over there. Do tilers use green board and get away with it? Yes. Is it approved by industry standards? NO. And that's really what it comes down to. Getting away with something. The manufacturer clearly states green board is not be used in showers. But tilers still do it. The Aquadefense clearly states it's not a vapor barrier and is to be used over cement products. But your tilers ignored that info and still used it. They never taped seams, they used wrong products, and they're building you an inferior shower. They're hoping you won't looking up the technical data for everything. That's why I posted it for you. I'm tired of homeowners getting hosed by unscrupulous and cheap-ass builders and contractors. Ask them to get out the TCNA handbook and show you exactly where it says green board is allowable for a shower/tub surround. Then ask them to show you where it says aqua defense can be applied to green board that's installed in a shower. Make them show it to you. https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook.html of course they won't be able to but they'll give you a song and dance of why it's still allowable. Uh, no. It's not. Codes exist for a reason. Imagine if they were building your house and fudged on the roof supports in the same manner. Would you allow that? BTW, in that video of IB membrane you posted? did you watch it? the guy is rolling it on the shower. but the shower doesn't have the green board in it. it has a black looking cement board product (with seams that have been taped and mortared). I don't know if this stuff can be applied over green board. you'd have to call and ask them. (you're in Canada?) (but standards and code still say that green board should not be used in shower, even with one of those membranes applied over it. ) And, it still doesn't excuse the part of the green board that was left uncovered and how they hastily applied this aqua stuff onto it. ( and I'm pretty sure that isn't doable) Ask them how confident they are. Will they sign a warranty? maybe 10 yrs? a well tiled shower should last a lifetime. Will they give you warranty? I bet he says "No'.

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Reply to: Here are some ideas. The black round would go in living room. The upper left one over round table. The star shaped one I am thinking possibly over the island and just do one. Squared one possibly for entry area.

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Reply to: I have that photo saved too. OK. I have gathered examples in the industrial contemporary styling which is hardest to do well. I found this pendant I love and you could build combination around that style. Then you post that dining photo! I can work on what I think would work well assuming you do 2 pendants over island, a 60” round table in dining area and you remove fan and replace with chandy but don’t move junction box. (I wish builder’s would get good lighting designs at the design stage!

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Reply to: For some reason I really love this look!

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Reply to: This!

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Reply to: Opps

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