bathroom

Reply to: You could go with a 1.25 cubic ft softener, but it will be less slat-efficient than a 1 cubic ft. A 1 cuft would regen every 7 days at 6 lb salt per cuft of resin. A 1.25 cuft would theoretically regen every 9 days. However, your softener will operate better for a longer period of time if you regen every 7 days. The difference between the two, in terms of salt usage would be 3 lb per month. So, if you want the ability to have a slightly higher flow, go with the 1.25. The Fleck 5600sxt you mentioned is a good, reliable valve that should provide many years of service. Once your softener arrives I can help with programming for best efficiency. Things you need: 1) Top distribution basket 2) Gravel underbed 3) High quality American or German resin, 10% crosslinked (because you are on city water) 4) Noryl bypass. 5) Plumb the softener with a separate bypass so you can remove it, if necessary, without disrupting water flow to your home.

Q

Reply to: There is only one type of softener. A water softener is by definition an ion exchange that uses salt. Nothing else is a water softener. A "salt-free softener" isn't a thing. Reverse osmosis is a filter. It removes virtually everything. It is generally not practical beyond small amounts of drinking water - a few gallons a day. Same with a distiller. Magnetic and electromagnetic are completely bogus. There is something called template assisted crystallization that may or may not actually do what it says because the results aren't measurable. Even if / when it does what it says, it doesn't remove hardness. The only option for residential use that will remove hardness in the volume of water that you need for your entire house is an ion exchange water softener. The good news is a simple water softener is about $600 to $800 plus installation. They are very effective and you can prove that they are doing what they say by measuring the hardness level of the water after they treat it.

Q