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Comment
auroraborelis

I'm aware of the pitfalls to shopping online, however when there are significant savings to be found I'm more than willing to take the risk.

Q

Reply to: I'm aware of the pitfalls to shopping online, however when there are significant savings to be found I'm more than willing to take the risk.

Q

Comment
Heather N

Some things I’ve thought about since we moved to our new house a year ago: 1) Incorporate a mudroom - have it go from the garage or side door into the kitchen. Our old mudroom was off the family room, and it didn’t feel efficient 2) toekick lighting in kitchen and en suite bathrooms - super nice to have on at night 3) If you have a kitchen island with a sink on it, use one of the drawers (we used the one above the trash pullout) as a paper towel holder so you don’t have to have a paper towel holder on your island. Ours pulls out and then there is room to store extra rolls behind the roll that is in use. 4) If you have little kids - we built a pullout stool in front of the kitchen prep sink so the kids could easily access the sink to wash their hands and fill up their glasses of water. They also stand on it when they help me cook. 5) water filtration - consider what level of filtration you will need for your water supply and locate any filters appropriately. Our Reverse Osmosis filter is too big to put under our sink in the kitchen, so we are locating it in the basement below the kitchen. 6) Consider the depths of your window frames if you want to mount any shades inside the window frame - it looks nicer if they don’t stick out and are enclosed by the framing. If you want any automated shades, make sure you run electrical wires there 7) Lighting - if you go with LED lights, particularly for recessed lights, make sure you get lights that are dim-to-warm (whiter at high brightness and get warmer and less white when dimmed). Also make sure that they actually dim properly - many LED lights don’t dim very much 8) dimmer switches everywhere 9) run gas lines to your fireplaces even if you’re going with wood burning just so the option is there to convert in the future. We have a mix of gas log sets in some fireplaces that we use often and regular woodburning fireplaces in other places that aren’t used as frequently 10) radiant heat flooring 11) bench in master shower 12) get high ceilings in your basement if you can - we have some workout equipment that my husband couldn’t use at our old house with 7foot basement ceilings. High ceilings make it feel like a much more usable space 13) agree with earlier post about trying to get your main entertaining spaces with some south light. Evening entertainment spaces (such as a living room) should get south/west light, morning spaces (such as a kitchen) should get south/east light. Rooms that you don’t use frequently should get the worst light. 14) video camera doorbells 15) get a garage door opener that can be controlled from app on your phone - comes in very handy 16) have at least one keypad or smart lock on your house that can be controlled by your phone or by entering a code on your keypad. Really nice if you forget your keys. The ones with smartphone access are good for allowing people to enter your house if you’re not home. They don’t always look great, so maybe put on a side door instead of main front door. 17) either a whole-house generator, or a generator that only powers specific electric panel(s) - but know this in advance so you can wire the panels properly and have the essentials all on a single panel 18) if you have an in-ground pool, an automatic safety cover is amazing. Safer, keeps pool clean, keeps pool warm. 19) consider running the wiring for an electric car charger to your garage so that you can easily add one in the future if needed. 20) consider the WiFi coverage in your house and make sure you have a sufficient number of access points to provide coverage. Include your outdoor spaces as well so you have WiFi when you’re in your backyard 21) Nest thermostats or something similar that can be controlled remotely

Q

Reply to: Some things I’ve thought about since we moved to our new house a year ago: 1) Incorporate a mudroom - have it go from the garage or side door into the kitchen. Our old mudroom was off the family room, and it didn’t feel efficient 2) toekick lighting in kitchen and en suite bathrooms - super nice to have on at night 3) If you have a kitchen island with a sink on it, use one of the drawers (we used the one above the trash pullout) as a paper towel holder so you don’t have to have a paper towel holder on your island. Ours pulls out and then there is room to store extra rolls behind the roll that is in use. 4) If you have little kids - we built a pullout stool in front of the kitchen prep sink so the kids could easily access the sink to wash their hands and fill up their glasses of water. They also stand on it when they help me cook. 5) water filtration - consider what level of filtration you will need for your water supply and locate any filters appropriately. Our Reverse Osmosis filter is too big to put under our sink in the kitchen, so we are locating it in the basement below the kitchen. 6) Consider the depths of your window frames if you want to mount any shades inside the window frame - it looks nicer if they don’t stick out and are enclosed by the framing. If you want any automated shades, make sure you run electrical wires there 7) Lighting - if you go with LED lights, particularly for recessed lights, make sure you get lights that are dim-to-warm (whiter at high brightness and get warmer and less white when dimmed). Also make sure that they actually dim properly - many LED lights don’t dim very much 8) dimmer switches everywhere 9) run gas lines to your fireplaces even if you’re going with wood burning just so the option is there to convert in the future. We have a mix of gas log sets in some fireplaces that we use often and regular woodburning fireplaces in other places that aren’t used as frequently 10) radiant heat flooring 11) bench in master shower 12) get high ceilings in your basement if you can - we have some workout equipment that my husband couldn’t use at our old house with 7foot basement ceilings. High ceilings make it feel like a much more usable space 13) agree with earlier post about trying to get your main entertaining spaces with some south light. Evening entertainment spaces (such as a living room) should get south/west light, morning spaces (such as a kitchen) should get south/east light. Rooms that you don’t use frequently should get the worst light. 14) video camera doorbells 15) get a garage door opener that can be controlled from app on your phone - comes in very handy 16) have at least one keypad or smart lock on your house that can be controlled by your phone or by entering a code on your keypad. Really nice if you forget your keys. The ones with smartphone access are good for allowing people to enter your house if you’re not home. They don’t always look great, so maybe put on a side door instead of main front door. 17) either a whole-house generator, or a generator that only powers specific electric panel(s) - but know this in advance so you can wire the panels properly and have the essentials all on a single panel 18) if you have an in-ground pool, an automatic safety cover is amazing. Safer, keeps pool clean, keeps pool warm. 19) consider running the wiring for an electric car charger to your garage so that you can easily add one in the future if needed. 20) consider the WiFi coverage in your house and make sure you have a sufficient number of access points to provide coverage. Include your outdoor spaces as well so you have WiFi when you’re in your backyard 21) Nest thermostats or something similar that can be controlled remotely

Q

Comment
robin0919

athens.....you mentioned you are going to paint all of the trim instead of staining. You said you 'didn't want MDF but are going to use ALOT of crown. Go with MDF for crown and baseboard..not around windows and doors! MDF does not shrink or expand like wood(no gaps) and is 50% less(cost of material) than wood. Not alot of saving but some! It also 'should' save some on labor as it's easier to work with. If you do use this, be sure you let the GC KNOW that you KNOW this. Most would try to charge the same for both....I hate to say it!

Q

Reply to: athens.....you mentioned you are going to paint all of the trim instead of staining. You said you 'didn't want MDF but are going to use ALOT of crown. Go with MDF for crown and baseboard..not around windows and doors! MDF does not shrink or expand like wood(no gaps) and is 50% less(cost of material) than wood. Not alot of saving but some! It also 'should' save some on labor as it's easier to work with. If you do use this, be sure you let the GC KNOW that you KNOW this. Most would try to charge the same for both....I hate to say it!

Q

Comment
Virgil Carter Fine Art

If you want a "complete list", then Google MasterSpec's Small Project or UDA Residential Specification. Good luck!

Q

Reply to: If you want a "complete list", then Google MasterSpec's Small Project or UDA Residential Specification. Good luck!

Q

Comment
loobab

Unless you are going to have a walk-in pantry or a butler's pantry in which you can store serving dishes, do not limit your cabinets to 12" in depth. Many serving dishes and platters have a circumference or depth of greater than 12". Most people say the hood should be wider than the range by 3 -6" on either side. What is also important is how much air it can move. A larger range (36") needs a larger hood, as does a larger kitchen, so you need a range hood that moves more air. How to Calculate Kitchen Range Hood Fan Size By: Danny Lipford Kitchen range hoods that are vented to the outside are a great way to remove heat, odors, moisture, and smoke from your home when cooking. The fans in range hoods are rated by the cubic feet of air they move per minute (CFM), and it’s important to buy a range hood that moves enough air to be effective. Below are several different ways to calculate the CFM for a range hood. Range Hood Fan Size The basic rule of thumb when determining the fan size of a range hood is that it should move a minimum of 100 CFM of air for every 12” of stove width. So if you have a 30” wide stove, you would need a range hood with a fan that moves at least 250 CFM of air: 2.5′ wide stove x 100 = 250 CFM minimum range hood fan size Room Size You should also take into account the size of your kitchen in cubic feet when calculating the size range hood fan needed, since a larger kitchen needs more venting to clear the air than a smaller room. A range hood should be able to exchange the air in the kitchen at least 15 times per hour or every four minutes. For example, if your kitchen is 16’ long x 16’ wide with an 8’ ceiling, it would contain 2,048 cubic feet of space: 16’ wide x 16’ long x 8’ high = 2,048 cubic feet To find the fan needed for your size kitchen, multiply the number of cubic feet in the room by the number of air exchanges (15), then divide by the number of minutes in an hour (60). For example: 2,048 cubic foot room x 15 air exchanges = 30,720 cubic feet moved per hour 30,720 cubic feet ÷ 60 minutes = 512 CFM range hood fan or higher An easier way to make the calculation above is to divide the number of cubic in the room by four minutes: 2,048 cubic foot room ÷ 4 minutes = 512 CFM range hood fan or higher Gas Stove The burners on a gas stove produce a lot more heat than those on an electric range, so a kitchen with a gas stove requires a larger capacity range hood vent fan. To calculate the fan sized needed for a gas stove, combine the BTU ratings for all the burners on your stove (gas burners range from 5,000-15,000 BTU per burner, with an average of about 10,000 BTU per burner and a total of about 40,000 for a standard 4-burner stove), then divide by 100 to find the minimum CFM needed for a kitchen with a gas stove. For example: 40,000 BTU gas stove ÷ 100 = 400 CFM range hood fan or higher Range Hood Ductwork The size, shape, length, turns, and cap on the range hood ductwork adds resistance which reduces the amount of air the vent fan can move, requiring additional CFM for the fan. When using smooth, round 8” diameter, metal pipe, add one CFM per foot of pipe, plus 25 CFM for each elbow, and 40 CFM for a roof cap. For example, if the vent pipe was 10’ long with two elbows and a roof cap, you would need to add 100 CFM more to the fan size ratings above: 10 pipe length + 25 elbow + 25 elbow + 40 roof cap = 100 CFM Calculating Range Hood CFM Vent Fan Size To make the final calculation, take the larger of the CFM rating for stove width, room size, and stove burner. Add the additional CFMs needed for the ductwork to arrive at the minimum CFM range hood to buy. In the examples used above, if your kitchen has a 30” stove (250 CFM minimum) in a 16’ x 16’ x 8’ room (512 CFM minimum), and a 40,000 BTU gas stove (400 CFM minimum) you would want a fan rated at 512 CFM or higher, plus 100 CFM for the ductwork for a total of 612 CFM or more. https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-calculate-kitchen-range-hood-fan-size/

Q

Reply to: Unless you are going to have a walk-in pantry or a butler's pantry in which you can store serving dishes, do not limit your cabinets to 12" in depth. Many serving dishes and platters have a circumference or depth of greater than 12". Most people say the hood should be wider than the range by 3 -6" on either side. What is also important is how much air it can move. A larger range (36") needs a larger hood, as does a larger kitchen, so you need a range hood that moves more air. How to Calculate Kitchen Range Hood Fan Size By: Danny Lipford Kitchen range hoods that are vented to the outside are a great way to remove heat, odors, moisture, and smoke from your home when cooking. The fans in range hoods are rated by the cubic feet of air they move per minute (CFM), and it’s important to buy a range hood that moves enough air to be effective. Below are several different ways to calculate the CFM for a range hood. Range Hood Fan Size The basic rule of thumb when determining the fan size of a range hood is that it should move a minimum of 100 CFM of air for every 12” of stove width. So if you have a 30” wide stove, you would need a range hood with a fan that moves at least 250 CFM of air: 2.5′ wide stove x 100 = 250 CFM minimum range hood fan size Room Size You should also take into account the size of your kitchen in cubic feet when calculating the size range hood fan needed, since a larger kitchen needs more venting to clear the air than a smaller room. A range hood should be able to exchange the air in the kitchen at least 15 times per hour or every four minutes. For example, if your kitchen is 16’ long x 16’ wide with an 8’ ceiling, it would contain 2,048 cubic feet of space: 16’ wide x 16’ long x 8’ high = 2,048 cubic feet To find the fan needed for your size kitchen, multiply the number of cubic feet in the room by the number of air exchanges (15), then divide by the number of minutes in an hour (60). For example: 2,048 cubic foot room x 15 air exchanges = 30,720 cubic feet moved per hour 30,720 cubic feet ÷ 60 minutes = 512 CFM range hood fan or higher An easier way to make the calculation above is to divide the number of cubic in the room by four minutes: 2,048 cubic foot room ÷ 4 minutes = 512 CFM range hood fan or higher Gas Stove The burners on a gas stove produce a lot more heat than those on an electric range, so a kitchen with a gas stove requires a larger capacity range hood vent fan. To calculate the fan sized needed for a gas stove, combine the BTU ratings for all the burners on your stove (gas burners range from 5,000-15,000 BTU per burner, with an average of about 10,000 BTU per burner and a total of about 40,000 for a standard 4-burner stove), then divide by 100 to find the minimum CFM needed for a kitchen with a gas stove. For example: 40,000 BTU gas stove ÷ 100 = 400 CFM range hood fan or higher Range Hood Ductwork The size, shape, length, turns, and cap on the range hood ductwork adds resistance which reduces the amount of air the vent fan can move, requiring additional CFM for the fan. When using smooth, round 8” diameter, metal pipe, add one CFM per foot of pipe, plus 25 CFM for each elbow, and 40 CFM for a roof cap. For example, if the vent pipe was 10’ long with two elbows and a roof cap, you would need to add 100 CFM more to the fan size ratings above: 10 pipe length + 25 elbow + 25 elbow + 40 roof cap = 100 CFM Calculating Range Hood CFM Vent Fan Size To make the final calculation, take the larger of the CFM rating for stove width, room size, and stove burner. Add the additional CFMs needed for the ductwork to arrive at the minimum CFM range hood to buy. In the examples used above, if your kitchen has a 30” stove (250 CFM minimum) in a 16’ x 16’ x 8’ room (512 CFM minimum), and a 40,000 BTU gas stove (400 CFM minimum) you would want a fan rated at 512 CFM or higher, plus 100 CFM for the ductwork for a total of 612 CFM or more. https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-calculate-kitchen-range-hood-fan-size/

Q

Comment
Eric Vecchiola

First time poster but I just read the entire thread and took down ideas that related to my style and location (Western PA). Thought I'd just copy/paste the whole list so you all can use it too. We are in the blueprint stages of our custom home and I'm collecting great ideas like those shared in this thread. Without further adieu.... KITCHEN Extra "drink fridge" in the kitchen Outlet above cabinets for LED lighting Under cabinet lighting Deep drawers instead of lower cabinets Magnetic light switch in kitchen pantry Gas line running to the deck for grill hookup Pet food drawers / storage ? Silgranit sink 220 line in garage (hybrid car or appliance) OUTSIDE / GARAGE Hose spigot near the front of the garage. Heavy-duty outlet outside of garage Utility sink in the garage with spray faucet Spot light between garage bays Cable outlet in garage Switched flood lights in rear and driveway Speaker wire runs in garage and outdoor speakers for driveway Conduit under sidewalk for running future lights Keypad entry wired on outside of garage door FAMILY ROOM Outlet above mantle One switched outlet in the living room for X-Mas tree Insulation in family room ceiling to dampen sound FOYER / HALLS / POWDER ROOM / STAIRS Outlet near the steps for garland lights on railing Taller toilet in powder room Taller vanity in powder room Deeper treads on stairs MASTER BED / BATH Plywood or other backing on bathroom wall where towel racks will go Outlet inside vanity for charging items (shaver, toothbrush, etc) Tall and elongated toilet Pocket door seperating toilet/shower from sink and tub Extra insulation on floor to prevent cold air from garage below Window in WIC to provide fresh air ? Cost of cast iron plumbing drops from upstairs drains LAUNDRY Utility sink with spray faucet Drain in floor Insulate floor as sound barrier (maybe sound-proof material under washer and dryer) DINING ROOM ? Tray ceiling 4 recessed lights - one in each corner of room Chandler in center ELECTRICAL Whole house surge protector Connection for generator (with LED to indicate power on) Access to power for future landscape lighting

Q

Reply to: First time poster but I just read the entire thread and took down ideas that related to my style and location (Western PA). Thought I'd just copy/paste the whole list so you all can use it too. We are in the blueprint stages of our custom home and I'm collecting great ideas like those shared in this thread. Without further adieu.... KITCHEN Extra "drink fridge" in the kitchen Outlet above cabinets for LED lighting Under cabinet lighting Deep drawers instead of lower cabinets Magnetic light switch in kitchen pantry Gas line running to the deck for grill hookup Pet food drawers / storage ? Silgranit sink 220 line in garage (hybrid car or appliance) OUTSIDE / GARAGE Hose spigot near the front of the garage. Heavy-duty outlet outside of garage Utility sink in the garage with spray faucet Spot light between garage bays Cable outlet in garage Switched flood lights in rear and driveway Speaker wire runs in garage and outdoor speakers for driveway Conduit under sidewalk for running future lights Keypad entry wired on outside of garage door FAMILY ROOM Outlet above mantle One switched outlet in the living room for X-Mas tree Insulation in family room ceiling to dampen sound FOYER / HALLS / POWDER ROOM / STAIRS Outlet near the steps for garland lights on railing Taller toilet in powder room Taller vanity in powder room Deeper treads on stairs MASTER BED / BATH Plywood or other backing on bathroom wall where towel racks will go Outlet inside vanity for charging items (shaver, toothbrush, etc) Tall and elongated toilet Pocket door seperating toilet/shower from sink and tub Extra insulation on floor to prevent cold air from garage below Window in WIC to provide fresh air ? Cost of cast iron plumbing drops from upstairs drains LAUNDRY Utility sink with spray faucet Drain in floor Insulate floor as sound barrier (maybe sound-proof material under washer and dryer) DINING ROOM ? Tray ceiling 4 recessed lights - one in each corner of room Chandler in center ELECTRICAL Whole house surge protector Connection for generator (with LED to indicate power on) Access to power for future landscape lighting

Q

Comment
Custom Home Planning Center

1st quarter list for my custom home class: A. Site planning 1. Passive solar - know and use southeast to south west for most windows in climates that have a heating season 2. Clear all organics from the building zone 3. prepare site access for delivery trucks (use available crushed concrete from the ready mix yard as most will sell it for little or nothing to clean up their yard ask about water damaged bags of mortar & cement) B. Footing 1. Footing step down should lap to double depth by no less than 8" 2. Adding fiber to the concrete is cheap insurance against failure. 3. If adding steel to footings use chairs - rebar must be isolated from ground contact or it will rust out and weaken the footing not strengthen it. (metal grade stakes should not have direct contact with rebar) 4. Anticipate ordering slightly more yardage than you need, but be prepared to use the left overs (cutting sona tube concrete forming tubes in 4 or 5 inch deep slices let you make stepping stones for example) C. Foundation 1.Add PVC sleeves for utility passages 2.consider seismic spacers between top of foundation and sill plate (note: holes through plate should be larger than normal to reduce transfer of movement. 3.after applying weatherproofing where necessary, apply a hydrostatic spacer fabric to foundation and field drains 4.use a continuous Metal insect shield between between foundation and sill plate caulk penetrations and/or apply boric acid paste. D. Framing 1. drill drainage holes in floor deck as necessary to avoid standing water. 2. have field shop crown and mark all wall members and headers. (walls= all arrows pointing the same direction when assembled, Headers = crown pointed up) 3. be aware there are articulated top and bottom plates for forming curved walls 4. use California corners to avoid voids of un instated space or pre insulate corners and T's before sheeting. 5. check that point loads have studs and blocking all the way to foundation or properly sized beams. 6. remember if windows are less than 22 1/2 RO they do not require headers, just scrap material for nailers.$$ 7.consider using custom pre cut SIPs ( structural insulate panels) for circle or other custom shaped passages 8. Cantilevered trusses allow for full at the wall/ceiling insulation and a ready made soffits 9. .Use SIPs for exterior walls. 10. consider 2 x 6 interior walls where a ref area can be dropped back to 2 x 4 and eliminate the cost of cabinet deep ref. 11. keep select wall areas for use of stud cavities storage clear of wires and ducts. 12.add blocking for curtains, towel bars, handicap rails or any anticipated heavy wall loads 13. pre frame for pet doors, safes, ect. 14. use 5/4 plastic deck lumber exterior under door sills 15. up grade to screw shank 12cc framing and 16cc nails (high wind construction) 16.use foam sill sealers under exterior wall plates 17.use pre insulated box type headers or at least 1/2" foil faced foam board for spacer when construction headers. 18. use steel studs for kitchen walls or any wall with major cabinet work. 19. use full 8' not pre-cuts for wall members the extra 4 1/2 inches makes the rooms working better for ceiling fans and upgrades of door heights and wider trim. Fill space at bottom with 1/2 plywood for base trim. (true for 9' and 10' material as well) field shop should verify length when marking crowns. 20. double check wall plumb. (self leveling laser or string plumb) Rough Ins Plumbing 1. run crawl or under slab to out the roof pvc radon vent 2. run exit collars for utilities in the foundation 3. run pvc roof vent pipe with wire pull to future active solar panel locations. 4. consider double manifold installation to shorten supply runs when using cross linked polymer lines 5. run pvc and line pull to secondary circuit board for future generator 6. If using a gas tank-less unit (best choice) consider an elec. tankless unit at the 2nd manifold location to boost temperatures for longer runs 7.consider 30" counter tops on exterior sink walls to allow plumbing to run behind cabinets not in the wall. (colder climates) 8.consider trap clean outs on sink drains even if not required. 9.add outside bibs no less that 30' appart 10. consider a gray water and/or rain water capture and store for landscape and gardening use 11. consider running drip irragation to trees and landscape as as opposed to sprinklers. 12.rough in for future exterior uses. (water features, hot tub, mist coolers, outdoor shower, pet bathing area or future pool) 13. add garage drains at the garage door for washing out the garage and to prevent water coming into the garage for outside. 14.run recirculation plumbing for water feature. 15.roll in shower framed - double up joist tapered to meet drainage and span requirements roll in shower slab - hold fill down to allow shower floor to taper to linear drain on low end 16. large tub filler - chrome nipple on 3/4" hot and cold lines coming out of the ceiling and dropping into tub (save$$$ over expensive roman tub spouts) 17.run hot and cold lines to toilet / bidet mixer (remember you may need elec. outlet behind toilet) 18. wet bar and or tub filler line rough in 19. on 2nd floor baths run cast iron 2nd to 1st floor drains for sound reduction 20. remember refrigerator ice cub water supply 21. Install shower valves with built in diverted for switching from rain to hand shower (few available) 22. locate full house water shut off in easy to reach location (individual shut off exist per fixture, but don't forget an interior shut off for the water run to garden water bib. 23. Insulate hot water lines to reduce heat loss 24. Make sure copper lines do not have direct contact with slab or concrete work 25 if using copper lines throughout make sure to attach them to a grounding rod for lightning protection 26. add a drain line 3" plus to safe or storm room 27. make sure field drains gravity flow to downstream outliet. or are pumt to a pit with a sump pump. 29. add a reverse flow stop vlave in the main drain lines 30. roof vents should be out of site from the street. 31. consider a water fountain All the suggestions posted on this thread have been so valuable, though I'm sure many of you (like myself) find your head spinning with all the ideas, so I just sat down and categorized them all! Closet & Organization - Plugs in several closets - Make sure your closet has enough space for both double hung rods, and singles to accomadate long clothes - Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight. - More closet/linen space than you think you'll need - Cubbies in mudroom with an outlet in each one - Motion sensor on pantry and closet lights Bath - Plug in master toilet closet for night light - Outlets inside vanity cabinets (upper and lower) in bathroom for dryer etc. - Heated towels racks - Don't caulk the bottom of your toilet to the tile to hide potential leaks - Make use of the pony wall in a bathroom by turning it into storage. - Vac pans for hair - Appliance garage on counter Outdoor - Run conduit under the driveway for future wiring or plumbing needs - Prewire speakers both indoor and outdoor - Ensure you have hose outlets and power on all 4 sides of your house, and on top of any raised areas - Hot/cold outdoor water is good for washing pets - Motion sensor pre-wire for selected exterior lights - Keypad entry on garage door (Keypad entry on front door is great as well) - Gas line to grill Kitchen - Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there - Recess the fridge - With wide islands put cabinets on the both sides. While they are not easy to get to, they are good for storing seldomly used items. - Built in paper towel holder - Custom storage organization in kitchen drawers - Warming drawer in dining room - Pantry entrance near both kitchen and garage - Custom shelves and a place to plug in appliances in pantry - Plugs above cabinets for Christmas lighting - Set up for both gas and electric appliances - Pantry door on swivel - Pantry light on motion sensor - Copper tubing for your ice maker from the freezer and until it's out of the kitchen wall - Drawer microwave - Knife drawer - Pull-out garbage/recycling/laundry (for dirty dish towels/napkins/bibs!) - Paper towel holder in drawer slot - Drawers for all lower cabinets (more efficient use of space) - Two soap pumps at sink (one for handsoap, one for dish soap) - Easy-access place to store frequently used appliances - place to hang hand towels & aprons Electrical & Plumbing - Prewire security system & cameras - Run wire and prepare roof for future solar - Run a 2" PVC pipe up from the basement to the attic for future wiring needs, some suggested double conduits. - Seperate 20z circut with outlets at waist height in garage to plug in tools - Seperate 20z ciructe for TV and a/v equipment - Identify areas for low voltage can/rack - Pre-wring for music and speakers, inside and outside - iPad controllers in the walls to control whole house music systems - Pre-wire for generator to essential areas - Carbon monozide unit on the wall upstairs - Make sure plumbing in bathrooms are done correctly. One commenter's toilet was placed too close to the tub pipes so I couldn't get the deeper tub because they didn't allow room. - Cast iron pipes for the plumbing drops from the second floor cuts down on noise - Take pictures of all the walls before Sheetrock went up so you knew where all the wiring was in case you needed to add or change anything. - Include a 220V to garage (tools, future electric car etc) - Measure the location of anything under the slab, and various utilities out in the yard. - Run an

Q

Reply to: 1st quarter list for my custom home class: A. Site planning 1. Passive solar - know and use southeast to south west for most windows in climates that have a heating season 2. Clear all organics from the building zone 3. prepare site access for delivery trucks (use available crushed concrete from the ready mix yard as most will sell it for little or nothing to clean up their yard ask about water damaged bags of mortar & cement) B. Footing 1. Footing step down should lap to double depth by no less than 8" 2. Adding fiber to the concrete is cheap insurance against failure. 3. If adding steel to footings use chairs - rebar must be isolated from ground contact or it will rust out and weaken the footing not strengthen it. (metal grade stakes should not have direct contact with rebar) 4. Anticipate ordering slightly more yardage than you need, but be prepared to use the left overs (cutting sona tube concrete forming tubes in 4 or 5 inch deep slices let you make stepping stones for example) C. Foundation 1.Add PVC sleeves for utility passages 2.consider seismic spacers between top of foundation and sill plate (note: holes through plate should be larger than normal to reduce transfer of movement. 3.after applying weatherproofing where necessary, apply a hydrostatic spacer fabric to foundation and field drains 4.use a continuous Metal insect shield between between foundation and sill plate caulk penetrations and/or apply boric acid paste. D. Framing 1. drill drainage holes in floor deck as necessary to avoid standing water. 2. have field shop crown and mark all wall members and headers. (walls= all arrows pointing the same direction when assembled, Headers = crown pointed up) 3. be aware there are articulated top and bottom plates for forming curved walls 4. use California corners to avoid voids of un instated space or pre insulate corners and T's before sheeting. 5. check that point loads have studs and blocking all the way to foundation or properly sized beams. 6. remember if windows are less than 22 1/2 RO they do not require headers, just scrap material for nailers.$$ 7.consider using custom pre cut SIPs ( structural insulate panels) for circle or other custom shaped passages 8. Cantilevered trusses allow for full at the wall/ceiling insulation and a ready made soffits 9. .Use SIPs for exterior walls. 10. consider 2 x 6 interior walls where a ref area can be dropped back to 2 x 4 and eliminate the cost of cabinet deep ref. 11. keep select wall areas for use of stud cavities storage clear of wires and ducts. 12.add blocking for curtains, towel bars, handicap rails or any anticipated heavy wall loads 13. pre frame for pet doors, safes, ect. 14. use 5/4 plastic deck lumber exterior under door sills 15. up grade to screw shank 12cc framing and 16cc nails (high wind construction) 16.use foam sill sealers under exterior wall plates 17.use pre insulated box type headers or at least 1/2" foil faced foam board for spacer when construction headers. 18. use steel studs for kitchen walls or any wall with major cabinet work. 19. use full 8' not pre-cuts for wall members the extra 4 1/2 inches makes the rooms working better for ceiling fans and upgrades of door heights and wider trim. Fill space at bottom with 1/2 plywood for base trim. (true for 9' and 10' material as well) field shop should verify length when marking crowns. 20. double check wall plumb. (self leveling laser or string plumb) Rough Ins Plumbing 1. run crawl or under slab to out the roof pvc radon vent 2. run exit collars for utilities in the foundation 3. run pvc roof vent pipe with wire pull to future active solar panel locations. 4. consider double manifold installation to shorten supply runs when using cross linked polymer lines 5. run pvc and line pull to secondary circuit board for future generator 6. If using a gas tank-less unit (best choice) consider an elec. tankless unit at the 2nd manifold location to boost temperatures for longer runs 7.consider 30" counter tops on exterior sink walls to allow plumbing to run behind cabinets not in the wall. (colder climates) 8.consider trap clean outs on sink drains even if not required. 9.add outside bibs no less that 30' appart 10. consider a gray water and/or rain water capture and store for landscape and gardening use 11. consider running drip irragation to trees and landscape as as opposed to sprinklers. 12.rough in for future exterior uses. (water features, hot tub, mist coolers, outdoor shower, pet bathing area or future pool) 13. add garage drains at the garage door for washing out the garage and to prevent water coming into the garage for outside. 14.run recirculation plumbing for water feature. 15.roll in shower framed - double up joist tapered to meet drainage and span requirements roll in shower slab - hold fill down to allow shower floor to taper to linear drain on low end 16. large tub filler - chrome nipple on 3/4" hot and cold lines coming out of the ceiling and dropping into tub (save$$$ over expensive roman tub spouts) 17.run hot and cold lines to toilet / bidet mixer (remember you may need elec. outlet behind toilet) 18. wet bar and or tub filler line rough in 19. on 2nd floor baths run cast iron 2nd to 1st floor drains for sound reduction 20. remember refrigerator ice cub water supply 21. Install shower valves with built in diverted for switching from rain to hand shower (few available) 22. locate full house water shut off in easy to reach location (individual shut off exist per fixture, but don't forget an interior shut off for the water run to garden water bib. 23. Insulate hot water lines to reduce heat loss 24. Make sure copper lines do not have direct contact with slab or concrete work 25 if using copper lines throughout make sure to attach them to a grounding rod for lightning protection 26. add a drain line 3" plus to safe or storm room 27. make sure field drains gravity flow to downstream outliet. or are pumt to a pit with a sump pump. 29. add a reverse flow stop vlave in the main drain lines 30. roof vents should be out of site from the street. 31. consider a water fountain All the suggestions posted on this thread have been so valuable, though I'm sure many of you (like myself) find your head spinning with all the ideas, so I just sat down and categorized them all! Closet & Organization - Plugs in several closets - Make sure your closet has enough space for both double hung rods, and singles to accomadate long clothes - Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight. - More closet/linen space than you think you'll need - Cubbies in mudroom with an outlet in each one - Motion sensor on pantry and closet lights Bath - Plug in master toilet closet for night light - Outlets inside vanity cabinets (upper and lower) in bathroom for dryer etc. - Heated towels racks - Don't caulk the bottom of your toilet to the tile to hide potential leaks - Make use of the pony wall in a bathroom by turning it into storage. - Vac pans for hair - Appliance garage on counter Outdoor - Run conduit under the driveway for future wiring or plumbing needs - Prewire speakers both indoor and outdoor - Ensure you have hose outlets and power on all 4 sides of your house, and on top of any raised areas - Hot/cold outdoor water is good for washing pets - Motion sensor pre-wire for selected exterior lights - Keypad entry on garage door (Keypad entry on front door is great as well) - Gas line to grill Kitchen - Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there - Recess the fridge - With wide islands put cabinets on the both sides. While they are not easy to get to, they are good for storing seldomly used items. - Built in paper towel holder - Custom storage organization in kitchen drawers - Warming drawer in dining room - Pantry entrance near both kitchen and garage - Custom shelves and a place to plug in appliances in pantry - Plugs above cabinets for Christmas lighting - Set up for both gas and electric appliances - Pantry door on swivel - Pantry light on motion sensor - Copper tubing for your ice maker from the freezer and until it's out of the kitchen wall - Drawer microwave - Knife drawer - Pull-out garbage/recycling/laundry (for dirty dish towels/napkins/bibs!) - Paper towel holder in drawer slot - Drawers for all lower cabinets (more efficient use of space) - Two soap pumps at sink (one for handsoap, one for dish soap) - Easy-access place to store frequently used appliances - place to hang hand towels & aprons Electrical & Plumbing - Prewire security system & cameras - Run wire and prepare roof for future solar - Run a 2" PVC pipe up from the basement to the attic for future wiring needs, some suggested double conduits. - Seperate 20z circut with outlets at waist height in garage to plug in tools - Seperate 20z ciructe for TV and a/v equipment - Identify areas for low voltage can/rack - Pre-wring for music and speakers, inside and outside - iPad controllers in the walls to control whole house music systems - Pre-wire for generator to essential areas - Carbon monozide unit on the wall upstairs - Make sure plumbing in bathrooms are done correctly. One commenter's toilet was placed too close to the tub pipes so I couldn't get the deeper tub because they didn't allow room. - Cast iron pipes for the plumbing drops from the second floor cuts down on noise - Take pictures of all the walls before Sheetrock went up so you knew where all the wiring was in case you needed to add or change anything. - Include a 220V to garage (tools, future electric car etc) - Measure the location of anything under the slab, and various utilities out in the yard. - Run an

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bdpeck-charlotte

Here's how our percentage broke down, the land was not included, and all of our miscellaneous equipment rentals and trips to the store fell under Framing. So many trips would've fallen into multiple buckets and I didn't have time to seperate the receipt. Sorry, the spacing and formatting is not sticking... Estimate Actual Framing 14.8% 15.4% Structured Wiring 0.9% 0.6% Windows and Doors 10.0% 9.0% Countertops 2.0% 2.0% Finish Work 7.2% 8.7% Plumbing Fixtures 2.3% 2.9% Site Prep 5.9% 7.1% Flooring 2.6% 2.7% HVAC 4.0% 3.7% Tile 3.5% 3.9% Drywall 3.4% 1.7% Insulation 2.7% 3.4% Appliances 4.9% 4.6% Lighting Fixtures 2.5% 1.6% Cabinets 6.1% 6.8% Electrical 2.2% 2.9% Foundation 8.9% 7.6% Plumbing 2.1% 1.5% Exterior 12.2% 11.1% Landscaping 1.6% 2.8% Total 10.8%

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Reply to: Here's how our percentage broke down, the land was not included, and all of our miscellaneous equipment rentals and trips to the store fell under Framing. So many trips would've fallen into multiple buckets and I didn't have time to seperate the receipt. Sorry, the spacing and formatting is not sticking... Estimate Actual Framing 14.8% 15.4% Structured Wiring 0.9% 0.6% Windows and Doors 10.0% 9.0% Countertops 2.0% 2.0% Finish Work 7.2% 8.7% Plumbing Fixtures 2.3% 2.9% Site Prep 5.9% 7.1% Flooring 2.6% 2.7% HVAC 4.0% 3.7% Tile 3.5% 3.9% Drywall 3.4% 1.7% Insulation 2.7% 3.4% Appliances 4.9% 4.6% Lighting Fixtures 2.5% 1.6% Cabinets 6.1% 6.8% Electrical 2.2% 2.9% Foundation 8.9% 7.6% Plumbing 2.1% 1.5% Exterior 12.2% 11.1% Landscaping 1.6% 2.8% Total 10.8%

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cpartist

Here are some really excellent threads to help: Designing a Custom Home Book Suggestions How to Design Your Own Home What Makes a House Have Good Design? 5 Rules of Thumb for Better Home Design House Plans Using Bubbles I Just Read This On Sarah Susanka's Blog Beginning Bubble Design

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Reply to: Here are some really excellent threads to help: Designing a Custom Home Book Suggestions How to Design Your Own Home What Makes a House Have Good Design? 5 Rules of Thumb for Better Home Design House Plans Using Bubbles I Just Read This On Sarah Susanka's Blog Beginning Bubble Design

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skw1009

I have purchased two kitchen faucets from www.danzefaucetwarehouse.com.........their price was less than 1/2 of what our local plumbing company wanted for the same faucet and the shipping time was super...the first faucet was received the very next day after placing the order.....the second faucet was received two days after ordering.....everything new in unopened boxes......no seconds or returns....shipping is free....it is a wholesale company out of atlanta, ga.....the name of the company is HM Wallace.....www.hmwallace.com.....they sell toto, grohe, kohler, delta and others....I could not find a company anywhere on the internet that had a better price for danze faucets..........

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Reply to: I have purchased two kitchen faucets from www.danzefaucetwarehouse.com.........their price was less than 1/2 of what our local plumbing company wanted for the same faucet and the shipping time was super...the first faucet was received the very next day after placing the order.....the second faucet was received two days after ordering.....everything new in unopened boxes......no seconds or returns....shipping is free....it is a wholesale company out of atlanta, ga.....the name of the company is HM Wallace.....www.hmwallace.com.....they sell toto, grohe, kohler, delta and others....I could not find a company anywhere on the internet that had a better price for danze faucets..........

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casualexec

Consider a true commercial under counter ice maker in your kitchen. We have a Hoshizaki AM50BAE 15" wide. You will never use traditional refrigerator/freezer ice again. These units flow water over a chill plate and the impurities run off so you get crystal clear ice. Putting in an outlet and a floor drain where it will go will make a huge difference. We had to install the optional pump to connect it to our sink drain. In the last 10 years we have had no issues with the ice maker, but have put in 2 or 3 pumps. They run around $250 for the pump. The ice maker is around $1,500. It makes a great cube shape. Stay away from the home brands of under counter ice makers and stick with the commercial brands. Hoshizaki, Scottsman or Manitowoc are all good choices.

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Reply to: Consider a true commercial under counter ice maker in your kitchen. We have a Hoshizaki AM50BAE 15" wide. You will never use traditional refrigerator/freezer ice again. These units flow water over a chill plate and the impurities run off so you get crystal clear ice. Putting in an outlet and a floor drain where it will go will make a huge difference. We had to install the optional pump to connect it to our sink drain. In the last 10 years we have had no issues with the ice maker, but have put in 2 or 3 pumps. They run around $250 for the pump. The ice maker is around $1,500. It makes a great cube shape. Stay away from the home brands of under counter ice makers and stick with the commercial brands. Hoshizaki, Scottsman or Manitowoc are all good choices.

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Comment
One Devoted Dame

Things I'm glad we're doing (new tract/production home): 200 amp electrical service in our 2000 sqft house. For a larger home, depending on electricity needs, 320 amp may be more appropriate. Extra exterior outlets on the perimeter. Dedicated outlet in garage for refrigerator/freezer. Outlets in hall closet and pantry. I basically keep the vacuum plugged in all the time, and wanted it plugged into its "home base" closet. Minimal recessed lighting. Ceiling lighting, in general, just isn't my cup of tea. Ceiling fan in laundry room to assist in hang-drying clothes. Carpet in non-wet, non-eating, areas. I hate carpet, absolutely despise the stuff. But I don't like little ones falling off of things and busting their heads/faces open on hard floors, either (too much of that going on in the current house we're in). So carpet now, hard floor later, unfortunately. A nice kitchen, with a decent pantry, and at least one window. We always seem to splurge in the kitchen and never regret it. We cook everything from scratch, and have 5 homeschooled kids, so we spend a lot of time in the kitchen and need great storage. Now, "nice" doesn't have to mean "enormous," but it definitely means "efficient" and "really darn pretty to look at." Gas range. Electric oven. Counter height island seating. Bathrooms with double-wide countertop vanities, but only a single sink. Laundry room, not a laundry closet. You can imagine how much laundry I have, lol. Not going through the laundry room to get into the house -- from any entry point. I disliked this even before we had kids. Now it's just a deal breaker. Not going through the kitchen to get to anywhere/anything else in the house. No front street-facing bedrooms. I prefer backyard access only for bedrooms. All living areas have gorgeous southern exposure, with the bedrooms all blissfully along the cold northern side. The short sides of the house are east-west, with the backyard facing east, so we can actually enjoy it (we have a western backyard now, and it's awful). We have a front-facing garage (I strongly prefer detached), so it absorbs most of the western heat of the sun, along with the foyer and one small room in the front that we'll use as a mudroom/away space/nighttime movie watching room. Coming into the foyer from either the front door or the garage. Since we had to have an attached garage, I wanted to come home and be dumped into the foyer. Mail drop zone outside the kitchen. Consistent, single-material siding/masonry/whatever around the entire house. We have variegated red/black brick. Doggie turf patch in backyard, surrounded by boxwood hedge on three sides, for pup(s) to do their business without me searching the entire yard for messes. (I don't plan on having a grassy yard for very long -- I prefer garden-like spaces over golf-course-like spaces.) In-ground tornado shelter out back. Decent sight-lines throughout. Things I wish we could've/would've done ("saving for the custom"): Heavily wooded 1+ acre. Historically-inspired architectural style. 1-room deep house. Maybe stretch to 1.5 or 2 rooms deep in certain areas. An extra bedroom or two. (Have 3 now, will have 3 in the new house, want 4-5 in the custom.) Powder room. Kids' bath with 2 toilets, 1 tub/shower, 2 sinks. Zero recessed can lighting and nearly non-existent ceiling-mounted lighting. Tile & wood everywhere, without transition strips. Wall niches for art/photos/pottery. Built-in gas range and electric wall oven. Recessed, dedicated fridge/dedicated freezer set. Windows flanking the range. Zero upper cabinets. Larger dining space. Bar in family/away room. More/slightly larger closets. More windows. Pretty much everywhere, lol. In-swing casement windows. True divided lite or simulated divided lite windows. I dislike grills between the glass. Stained glass accent windows. Window seats. Lots of 'em. Dutch doors for laundry room and backyard doors. Frosted doors for bathrooms/water closets. Laundry room on exterior wall, so that it can have a window, and the dryer can vent directly to the outside. Sink in laundry room. Detached garage with utility sink. Additional hose bibs along each side of the house. Water softener and reverse osmosis system. Zero glass in the shower. I prefer 360* fabric shower curtains over glass or tile, functionally as well as aesthetically. Freestanding tubs. In copper. ;-) Backyard access from master suite. Tornado safe room. Wrought iron fencing. Awesome sight-lines throughout. I'll shut up now, lol. :-D

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Reply to: Things I'm glad we're doing (new tract/production home): 200 amp electrical service in our 2000 sqft house. For a larger home, depending on electricity needs, 320 amp may be more appropriate. Extra exterior outlets on the perimeter. Dedicated outlet in garage for refrigerator/freezer. Outlets in hall closet and pantry. I basically keep the vacuum plugged in all the time, and wanted it plugged into its "home base" closet. Minimal recessed lighting. Ceiling lighting, in general, just isn't my cup of tea. Ceiling fan in laundry room to assist in hang-drying clothes. Carpet in non-wet, non-eating, areas. I hate carpet, absolutely despise the stuff. But I don't like little ones falling off of things and busting their heads/faces open on hard floors, either (too much of that going on in the current house we're in). So carpet now, hard floor later, unfortunately. A nice kitchen, with a decent pantry, and at least one window. We always seem to splurge in the kitchen and never regret it. We cook everything from scratch, and have 5 homeschooled kids, so we spend a lot of time in the kitchen and need great storage. Now, "nice" doesn't have to mean "enormous," but it definitely means "efficient" and "really darn pretty to look at." Gas range. Electric oven. Counter height island seating. Bathrooms with double-wide countertop vanities, but only a single sink. Laundry room, not a laundry closet. You can imagine how much laundry I have, lol. Not going through the laundry room to get into the house -- from any entry point. I disliked this even before we had kids. Now it's just a deal breaker. Not going through the kitchen to get to anywhere/anything else in the house. No front street-facing bedrooms. I prefer backyard access only for bedrooms. All living areas have gorgeous southern exposure, with the bedrooms all blissfully along the cold northern side. The short sides of the house are east-west, with the backyard facing east, so we can actually enjoy it (we have a western backyard now, and it's awful). We have a front-facing garage (I strongly prefer detached), so it absorbs most of the western heat of the sun, along with the foyer and one small room in the front that we'll use as a mudroom/away space/nighttime movie watching room. Coming into the foyer from either the front door or the garage. Since we had to have an attached garage, I wanted to come home and be dumped into the foyer. Mail drop zone outside the kitchen. Consistent, single-material siding/masonry/whatever around the entire house. We have variegated red/black brick. Doggie turf patch in backyard, surrounded by boxwood hedge on three sides, for pup(s) to do their business without me searching the entire yard for messes. (I don't plan on having a grassy yard for very long -- I prefer garden-like spaces over golf-course-like spaces.) In-ground tornado shelter out back. Decent sight-lines throughout. Things I wish we could've/would've done ("saving for the custom"): Heavily wooded 1+ acre. Historically-inspired architectural style. 1-room deep house. Maybe stretch to 1.5 or 2 rooms deep in certain areas. An extra bedroom or two. (Have 3 now, will have 3 in the new house, want 4-5 in the custom.) Powder room. Kids' bath with 2 toilets, 1 tub/shower, 2 sinks. Zero recessed can lighting and nearly non-existent ceiling-mounted lighting. Tile & wood everywhere, without transition strips. Wall niches for art/photos/pottery. Built-in gas range and electric wall oven. Recessed, dedicated fridge/dedicated freezer set. Windows flanking the range. Zero upper cabinets. Larger dining space. Bar in family/away room. More/slightly larger closets. More windows. Pretty much everywhere, lol. In-swing casement windows. True divided lite or simulated divided lite windows. I dislike grills between the glass. Stained glass accent windows. Window seats. Lots of 'em. Dutch doors for laundry room and backyard doors. Frosted doors for bathrooms/water closets. Laundry room on exterior wall, so that it can have a window, and the dryer can vent directly to the outside. Sink in laundry room. Detached garage with utility sink. Additional hose bibs along each side of the house. Water softener and reverse osmosis system. Zero glass in the shower. I prefer 360* fabric shower curtains over glass or tile, functionally as well as aesthetically. Freestanding tubs. In copper. ;-) Backyard access from master suite. Tornado safe room. Wrought iron fencing. Awesome sight-lines throughout. I'll shut up now, lol. :-D

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