jburr827

Old Cast Iron Tub, Small Tile Flange, and Tiling Question

jburr827
14 years ago

Hey Everyone,

I am hoping to get some opinions on a fundamental tiling question, my situation, as well as my plan. I did post this to the bathroom forum months ago, but didn't get a response there so I thought maybe I put it in the wrong place. If I am out of line in trying the same question here, I apologize.

I have an old cast iron tub in a second floor bathroom that I would like to keep. The tub does not have much of a tile flange (maybe a quarter of an inch at most) and it did leak past a 3-piece plastic surround (but I blame that more on the surround).

Anyway, I would like to tile around it and have read about different ways of dealing with the lack of much of a flange. My plan, if I can, is to put sheet metal down behind the tub on the three wall sides rising up 6 - 8 inches above the tub and then caulk between the tub and the metal. I then plan to use tar paper and asphalt roofing cement to create a vapor barrier which is sealed to the tub itself and then rises up the wall. Next would go the Durok (with an eigth or quarter of an inch of space left between it and the tub and then the tiles with a final bead of caulk seperating the tub from those materials.

My questions are: How does that sound? Has anyone had experience with this method? Is the metal a good idea? Is it necessary? Is it even wise to try and use a tub like this on the second floor given the difficulties the mini-flange presents?

The fundamental question I have about tiling is in regards to the vapor barrier placed behind the Durok. My understanding is that it is designed to catch any wayward moisture and direct it back towards the tub. What I don't understand is: If you caulk the space between the Durok / tile and the tub itself, how does the moisture get back to the tub? Logic tells me that keeping moisture in the tub is also going to keep it out. I don't understand where that moisture is supposed to go.

I appreciate your time and insights.

John

Comments (6)

  • jejvtr
    14 years ago

    John,

    Please post this on the bathroom forum on this site - there is a tile expert, Bill Vincent - just put calling Bill V in your subject line he always answers

    no expert but your solution sounds far more complicated than need be - ask bill

  • homebound
    14 years ago

    Good questions and concerns.

    But before the flange and new tiling is addressed, I'd try to understand the existing leaks thoroughly. Don't just assume it's the old surround - test everything: drain, diverter or valves, shower riser, etc. There could also have been a gap near one of the fixtures or trim plate around the diverter.

    As for the flange, I've never done it, but I'd probably try to extend it up one or two inches by "gluing" (epoxy or polyurethane, maybe) something rigid to it and the studs.

    This also sounds like a question for the john bridge tile forums. Do a search in their "liberry" first.

  • MongoCT
    14 years ago

    John,

    You don't necessarily need the z-trim.

    Use a 6-mil poly vapor barrier on the studs and bring that down to the flange. Seal it to the flange.

    Add your cement board. Now what you eventually want is for your tile to overhang the bottom edge of the cement board so the tile "covers" the face of your flange.

    To throw some silly numbers out as an example, if your flange was 3/4" thick and you used 1/2" cement board, the bottom edge of the bottom course of wall tile would be kicked out by the added 1/4" thickness of the tub flange. Make sense?

    If that's the case, then for the above example use 3/8" furring strips on the faces of the wall studs. Then the face of the cement board would project out 1/8" more than the flange, allowing the tile to hang over the front of the flange.

    So, with all that said...no, I don't think you need the z-flashing. Just seal the poly vapor barrier to the tub's flange.

    Regarding you last question about caulking the bottom course of tile to the tub. Most do it, but some don't. Some caulk but leave a couple of weep holes in the caulk.

    As convoluted as it might sound, any water that gets through the grout and is captured by the poly usually exits the wall by the way it entered...it dries back out through the grout. Sounds silly, but that's the way it goes.

  • jburr827
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I appreciate everyone's responses immensely. This really helped me a lot and gave me a lot more confidence that keeping the tub (which I really like) on the second floor was a viable option.

    I am gratefull for the step-by-step ideas and the insight to my broader question of how water escapes once it has passed the grout - I never thought about it drying back out again, but that does make a lot of sense particularly when you consider the small amount of water (more like water vapor actually I suppose) involved.

    Thanks again everyone...very much.

  • Sincerely Kristen
    6 years ago

    Hi @jburr827 - I am in the exact same predicament. We are redoing the tile in a bathroom, only to discover there is hardly ANY integrated tile flange. What did you end up doing and how has it held up? Thanks!!!

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