How to Design a South-facing Garden
If your plot catches plenty of sunshine, make the most of it with this advice from gardening professionals
If you have a south-facing garden, you’ll want to maximise your sunny spot, and you may well be the envy of anyone with a gloomier space. However, there are challenges, including how to keep things thriving during our ever-hotter summers.
Winter can be a good time to start planning ahead, especially with design work, so you can ensure your garden looks its best during the warmer months. Here, three experts explain the challenges and benefits of having a south-facing garden, including the plants to invest in, creating shade and where to put your patio.
Professional advice from: Luke Roeder of Roeder Landscape Design; Katie Davies of Simply Garden Design; Simon Orchard of Simon Orchard Garden Design
Beginning your garden project? Read How to Start a Garden Redesign
Winter can be a good time to start planning ahead, especially with design work, so you can ensure your garden looks its best during the warmer months. Here, three experts explain the challenges and benefits of having a south-facing garden, including the plants to invest in, creating shade and where to put your patio.
Professional advice from: Luke Roeder of Roeder Landscape Design; Katie Davies of Simply Garden Design; Simon Orchard of Simon Orchard Garden Design
Beginning your garden project? Read How to Start a Garden Redesign
What are the challenges and benefits of a south-facing garden?
“If soil moisture is not an issue, then a south-facing garden is probably the easiest to plant, provided there’s some protection from the wind,” Luke says.
“The benefit is there’s plenty of direct sun, which generally allows for a wide choice of plants and also means paved areas dry out and are less likely to [develop] algae or black spot,” he adds.
But as you’d expect, south-facing gardens can get dry and hot, which will impact which plants flourish – as well as how comfy the garden is to relax in. “If you have a very open, sunny garden, then you may want to create shady areas to sit in on hot days,” Simon says.
Read reviews of garden designers in your area on Houzz.
“If soil moisture is not an issue, then a south-facing garden is probably the easiest to plant, provided there’s some protection from the wind,” Luke says.
“The benefit is there’s plenty of direct sun, which generally allows for a wide choice of plants and also means paved areas dry out and are less likely to [develop] algae or black spot,” he adds.
But as you’d expect, south-facing gardens can get dry and hot, which will impact which plants flourish – as well as how comfy the garden is to relax in. “If you have a very open, sunny garden, then you may want to create shady areas to sit in on hot days,” Simon says.
Read reviews of garden designers in your area on Houzz.
Which plants should I choose?
“Think of plants you see in the Mediterranean,” Katie Davies suggests. “These can survive direct sunlight.
“As a rule of thumb,” she continues, “consider plants with thin, silvery leaves, because less water evaporates from the surface and the light colour reflects the sun’s glare, so they can cope with more sunshine than average. Examples of plants like this include lavender and Santolina.”
“Salvias, particularly Salvia microphylla and Salvia greggii, Agapanthus and Phlomis varieties do well in hot, dry locations once established,” Luke adds.
Think about grasses, too, Katie says. “They are a good way of creating long-lasting interest into winter.” She suggests Stipa arundinacea and the grey-leafed Festuca glauca.
“If the soil is dry, Panicum copes with drier soil better than most of the ornamental grasses,” Luke adds.
“Think of plants you see in the Mediterranean,” Katie Davies suggests. “These can survive direct sunlight.
“As a rule of thumb,” she continues, “consider plants with thin, silvery leaves, because less water evaporates from the surface and the light colour reflects the sun’s glare, so they can cope with more sunshine than average. Examples of plants like this include lavender and Santolina.”
“Salvias, particularly Salvia microphylla and Salvia greggii, Agapanthus and Phlomis varieties do well in hot, dry locations once established,” Luke adds.
Think about grasses, too, Katie says. “They are a good way of creating long-lasting interest into winter.” She suggests Stipa arundinacea and the grey-leafed Festuca glauca.
“If the soil is dry, Panicum copes with drier soil better than most of the ornamental grasses,” Luke adds.
What about landscaping?
“Careful consideration should be given to hard-landscaping materials and colour,” Simon says. “Avoid very light paving or white-rendered walls in a very sunny garden, as they will give off glare, causing you to squint.
“However, be mindful that darker greys and black will soak up heat and can be unbearable to walk on in the height of summer,” he continues. “Opt for a slightly lighter colour, which will reflect heat more.”
Luke agrees, adding, “More porous paving types, such as sawn sandstone, do well. It dries out and doesn’t stay wet for long periods.”
You could also create a gravel garden, Katie suggests. “Add boulders, water features, seating and plants that are happy to self-seed, such as Verbena bonariensis and Lychnis coronaria,” she says.
“Careful consideration should be given to hard-landscaping materials and colour,” Simon says. “Avoid very light paving or white-rendered walls in a very sunny garden, as they will give off glare, causing you to squint.
“However, be mindful that darker greys and black will soak up heat and can be unbearable to walk on in the height of summer,” he continues. “Opt for a slightly lighter colour, which will reflect heat more.”
Luke agrees, adding, “More porous paving types, such as sawn sandstone, do well. It dries out and doesn’t stay wet for long periods.”
You could also create a gravel garden, Katie suggests. “Add boulders, water features, seating and plants that are happy to self-seed, such as Verbena bonariensis and Lychnis coronaria,” she says.
Where should I put my patio?
For practicality, alongside the house is still the general rule for a patio. In a south-facing garden, this will also benefit from day-long sunshine (read on for tips on mitigating the downsides of this).
“If there’s room for more than one terrace, I may place one or two by the east and west boundaries,” Luke says. “A larger terrace on the east side may enjoy some shade in the heat of the day, but also get the last of the afternoon and evening sun. A smaller terrace towards the west side receiving direct sunlight in the morning is ideal for those who like to get up early and sit outside.”
Still not sure of the best location? “Make notes for how the sun tracks across your garden through the day,” Simon advises. “This will help you decide how to plan out the space.”
For practicality, alongside the house is still the general rule for a patio. In a south-facing garden, this will also benefit from day-long sunshine (read on for tips on mitigating the downsides of this).
“If there’s room for more than one terrace, I may place one or two by the east and west boundaries,” Luke says. “A larger terrace on the east side may enjoy some shade in the heat of the day, but also get the last of the afternoon and evening sun. A smaller terrace towards the west side receiving direct sunlight in the morning is ideal for those who like to get up early and sit outside.”
Still not sure of the best location? “Make notes for how the sun tracks across your garden through the day,” Simon advises. “This will help you decide how to plan out the space.”
How can I create shade?
There are various options, from pergolas to sails to good old-fashioned foliage.
“Ensure trees and shrubs are in the right position so shade is where you want it to be during the main part of the day,” Katie says. “And remember that what you plant will need to be happy in full sunshine.”
Simon agrees, adding, “If you have an existing tree, try pruning off the lower branches to raise the crown enough to sit under. If you want shade in the afternoon when the sun is moving west, avoid planting on the east boundary, where only your neighbours will benefit. For dappled shade, opt for trees with smaller leaves, such as silver birch, Amelanchier or willow.” Luke suggests a cherry tree for a quick-growing option.
Considering a pergola? “A simple timber structure with climbers growing over it could be all you need,” Simon says. “Or, for a more versatile solution, look at aluminium designs with a louvred roof. Some models also come with pull-down side blinds, perfect for when the sun is lower in the sky.”
If you favour a sail, Luke points out these can be problematic in windy situations, so need a sheltered spot.
There are various options, from pergolas to sails to good old-fashioned foliage.
“Ensure trees and shrubs are in the right position so shade is where you want it to be during the main part of the day,” Katie says. “And remember that what you plant will need to be happy in full sunshine.”
Simon agrees, adding, “If you have an existing tree, try pruning off the lower branches to raise the crown enough to sit under. If you want shade in the afternoon when the sun is moving west, avoid planting on the east boundary, where only your neighbours will benefit. For dappled shade, opt for trees with smaller leaves, such as silver birch, Amelanchier or willow.” Luke suggests a cherry tree for a quick-growing option.
Considering a pergola? “A simple timber structure with climbers growing over it could be all you need,” Simon says. “Or, for a more versatile solution, look at aluminium designs with a louvred roof. Some models also come with pull-down side blinds, perfect for when the sun is lower in the sky.”
If you favour a sail, Luke points out these can be problematic in windy situations, so need a sheltered spot.
What about watering?
“With weeks going by without rain, even the toughest plants can suffer,” Simon says. “The best starting point is choosing drought-tolerant varieties. However, even these will need watering in dry spells for their first season while their roots get established.”
Water butts are an excellent idea: look beyond adding one to your house downpipe and consider ones on a shed, garage, greenhouse or other outbuilding. “On a larger scale, an underground water harvesting tank could be sited with a pump to draw out water when needed,” Simon suggests.
His top watering tip? “Always water at night when there’s less evaporation, and water more infrequently but for a longer time, rather than every day for a short period,” he says. “This ensures the water gets down to the roots, rather than evaporating in the first few centimetres of soil. Also, by allowing soil to dry out between watering periods, it encourages the plants to seek out water and makes them a lot tougher.”
More: How Do I Create a Drought-tolerant Garden?
“With weeks going by without rain, even the toughest plants can suffer,” Simon says. “The best starting point is choosing drought-tolerant varieties. However, even these will need watering in dry spells for their first season while their roots get established.”
Water butts are an excellent idea: look beyond adding one to your house downpipe and consider ones on a shed, garage, greenhouse or other outbuilding. “On a larger scale, an underground water harvesting tank could be sited with a pump to draw out water when needed,” Simon suggests.
His top watering tip? “Always water at night when there’s less evaporation, and water more infrequently but for a longer time, rather than every day for a short period,” he says. “This ensures the water gets down to the roots, rather than evaporating in the first few centimetres of soil. Also, by allowing soil to dry out between watering periods, it encourages the plants to seek out water and makes them a lot tougher.”
More: How Do I Create a Drought-tolerant Garden?
Anything else to consider?
“Know your soil,” Simon says. “While Mediterranean plants may love hot sun, they won’t tolerate having their roots in heavy wet clay throughout the winter.”
Think, too, about the smell as well as the look of plants. “There’s nothing better than sitting outside on a summer’s evening with the scent of star jasmine [Trachelospermum jasminoides], night-scented stocks [Matthiola longipetala] or honeysuckle heavy in the air,” he says.
Katie adds, “If you find certain plants thrive in a certain corner of the garden, consider adding more of the same, so you get a really vibrant splash of colour or foliage. Sometimes less is more: don’t fight what works.”
Tell us…
Do you have a south-facing garden? If so, what’s worked for you? Share your tips in the Comments.
“Know your soil,” Simon says. “While Mediterranean plants may love hot sun, they won’t tolerate having their roots in heavy wet clay throughout the winter.”
Think, too, about the smell as well as the look of plants. “There’s nothing better than sitting outside on a summer’s evening with the scent of star jasmine [Trachelospermum jasminoides], night-scented stocks [Matthiola longipetala] or honeysuckle heavy in the air,” he says.
Katie adds, “If you find certain plants thrive in a certain corner of the garden, consider adding more of the same, so you get a really vibrant splash of colour or foliage. Sometimes less is more: don’t fight what works.”
Tell us…
Do you have a south-facing garden? If so, what’s worked for you? Share your tips in the Comments.
“Generally, a south facing garden will receive full sun all day,” Luke Roeder says.
Simon Orchard adds, “As you stand with your back to the house, the sun will rise on the left-hand side and by midday will be at its highest point, directly overhead in summer or in front of you in winter. As the afternoon progresses, it will drop lower on your right-hand side.”
However, it all depends on your specific garden. “While a south-facing garden will get a lot more sun than a north-facing one, trees and neighbouring properties can have a big impact,” Simon says. “A detached property with no big trees in the vicinity may get full sun all day, whereas a small urban courtyard, surrounded by tall buildings, may get limited sun – especially in winter when the sun is low in the sky.”