10 Questions to Ask Yourself Before Designing a Front Garden
Make these decisions before you start to help you create a space that works hard and looks beautiful
From bin storage to parking, the design remit of the average front garden may seem restrictive, yet the possibilities for creating a beautiful, relaxing or wildlife-attracting outdoor space are plentiful, which is where landscaping expertise comes in.
To get the balance between practical and pretty just right, however, there are some key decisions to make. Here, three garden designers help you to prep for that all-important first consultation, giving you a head start in creating an inviting new outdoor space for your home.
Professional advice from: Terrey Maufe of Outerspace Creative Landscaping; Phil Hirst of Phil Hirst Garden Design; Simon Orchard of Simon Orchard Garden Design
To get the balance between practical and pretty just right, however, there are some key decisions to make. Here, three garden designers help you to prep for that all-important first consultation, giving you a head start in creating an inviting new outdoor space for your home.
Professional advice from: Terrey Maufe of Outerspace Creative Landscaping; Phil Hirst of Phil Hirst Garden Design; Simon Orchard of Simon Orchard Garden Design
What sort of planting would work?
“Even if you have a postage stamp-sized front garden, there’s always room for a few plant pots or window boxes, which will brighten up the space, attract the odd butterfly and, hopefully, put a smile on the face of a passer-by,” Simon says.
As front gardens tend to be smaller than back gardens, Terrey Maufe highlights that trees, shrubs and planting need to be proportionate. Trees in particular can be structurally problematic if they’re too large or planted too close to the house or boundaries.
Your choices will also be influenced by the aspect of your front garden. “If you have a north-facing back garden, you may want to make the most of the sunny aspect of your front garden,” Terrey says. “There’s nothing to stop a front plot being the primary garden if the aspect is favourable and the design requirements can be met. It can also be a productive space, with herbs, fruit or even vegetables being grown there.”
“Tradition has it that front gardens tend to be more formal and ordered – keeping up appearances and all that,” Simon says. “But the great thing about gardening is you can be free to experiment and choose plants that will give you the most pleasure. So if you’d prefer to turn your nose up at a double row of lavender either side of your path or topiary balls in planters by your front door in favour of a rambling cottage garden or a lush tropical oasis – go for it!” he says.
“The most important thing is doing something in your front garden rather than nothing,” he adds. “What better way to strike up pleasant conversations with neighbours than spending more time in there pottering about?”
“Even if you have a postage stamp-sized front garden, there’s always room for a few plant pots or window boxes, which will brighten up the space, attract the odd butterfly and, hopefully, put a smile on the face of a passer-by,” Simon says.
As front gardens tend to be smaller than back gardens, Terrey Maufe highlights that trees, shrubs and planting need to be proportionate. Trees in particular can be structurally problematic if they’re too large or planted too close to the house or boundaries.
Your choices will also be influenced by the aspect of your front garden. “If you have a north-facing back garden, you may want to make the most of the sunny aspect of your front garden,” Terrey says. “There’s nothing to stop a front plot being the primary garden if the aspect is favourable and the design requirements can be met. It can also be a productive space, with herbs, fruit or even vegetables being grown there.”
“Tradition has it that front gardens tend to be more formal and ordered – keeping up appearances and all that,” Simon says. “But the great thing about gardening is you can be free to experiment and choose plants that will give you the most pleasure. So if you’d prefer to turn your nose up at a double row of lavender either side of your path or topiary balls in planters by your front door in favour of a rambling cottage garden or a lush tropical oasis – go for it!” he says.
“The most important thing is doing something in your front garden rather than nothing,” he adds. “What better way to strike up pleasant conversations with neighbours than spending more time in there pottering about?”
“Bear in mind this will be the first impression visitors and passers-by get of your property,” Phil says. “Try to make the style of planting appropriate to the architectural style of the house. A contemporary garden with clean-cut paving and minimalist planting would look incongruous with a country cottage.”
Phil suggests considering evergreens, too, to provide year-round structure. “Topiary or low hedges can be a good way of defining a front garden,” he says.
Find a landscape architect or garden designer in your area.
Phil suggests considering evergreens, too, to provide year-round structure. “Topiary or low hedges can be a good way of defining a front garden,” he says.
Find a landscape architect or garden designer in your area.
Where should I site a path to the front door?
All the designers agree this is a key decision. “It should be clear to anyone entering the garden which route they need to take to get to the front door,” Phil says. “This might mean ensuring the door is visible from the entrance to the garden. If the area is large and has more than one path, make sure the one to the front door is wider or more direct.”
Simon adds that a winding path is a great way to slow down the journey, so you take the time to enjoy any planting as you walk from the gate to the front door. “However, that may not be so great if it’s pouring down,” he says.
“Also,” he adds, “we quite often take a short cut to get to our destination – known in the trade as ‘the desire line’ – whether this be straight across a lawn or hopping over a narrow bed, so you may find your winding path is sometimes ignored.” Your designer will help to ensure that this quick route doesn’t contain all your most delicate plants or features.
All the designers agree this is a key decision. “It should be clear to anyone entering the garden which route they need to take to get to the front door,” Phil says. “This might mean ensuring the door is visible from the entrance to the garden. If the area is large and has more than one path, make sure the one to the front door is wider or more direct.”
Simon adds that a winding path is a great way to slow down the journey, so you take the time to enjoy any planting as you walk from the gate to the front door. “However, that may not be so great if it’s pouring down,” he says.
“Also,” he adds, “we quite often take a short cut to get to our destination – known in the trade as ‘the desire line’ – whether this be straight across a lawn or hopping over a narrow bed, so you may find your winding path is sometimes ignored.” Your designer will help to ensure that this quick route doesn’t contain all your most delicate plants or features.
Which surface should I choose for the path?
“Try to avoid uneven materials that are difficult to walk on or ones that will soon need replacing, such as bark chippings,” Phil says. He and Simon both agree that gravel can potentially be a great choice for paths and driveways. “It’s cheap and feels nice underfoot, and the sound is a great burglar deterrent – plus there are lots of material and colour options,” Simon says.
He highlights some considerations, though. “Small-diameter gravel can get caught in shoe treads and car tyres. The trick is to go for a 20mm diameter gravel rather than 10mm.” Also talk to your designer about the available products, such as stabilising grids, to prevent gravel getting churned up and displaced.
Terrey, on the other hand, is not a fan of gravel – or other loose materials – for purely pedestrian routes, as the surface can take quite a bit of maintenance. For curved paths, she suggests smaller module pavers or setts, and for straight paths, larger paving slabs or modules.
Talk to your designer about functionality. “Some materials can become very slippery, especially in winter,” Phil warns. “Make sure, too, that the materials are easy to keep clean and won’t show up dirt that will inevitably get trodden across them.”
“Try to avoid uneven materials that are difficult to walk on or ones that will soon need replacing, such as bark chippings,” Phil says. He and Simon both agree that gravel can potentially be a great choice for paths and driveways. “It’s cheap and feels nice underfoot, and the sound is a great burglar deterrent – plus there are lots of material and colour options,” Simon says.
He highlights some considerations, though. “Small-diameter gravel can get caught in shoe treads and car tyres. The trick is to go for a 20mm diameter gravel rather than 10mm.” Also talk to your designer about the available products, such as stabilising grids, to prevent gravel getting churned up and displaced.
Terrey, on the other hand, is not a fan of gravel – or other loose materials – for purely pedestrian routes, as the surface can take quite a bit of maintenance. For curved paths, she suggests smaller module pavers or setts, and for straight paths, larger paving slabs or modules.
Talk to your designer about functionality. “Some materials can become very slippery, especially in winter,” Phil warns. “Make sure, too, that the materials are easy to keep clean and won’t show up dirt that will inevitably get trodden across them.”
How can I make the garden wildlife-friendly?
“If possible, include a range of different plants that have flowers attractive to pollinators, or evergreen leaves that will provide shelter for birds and insects,” Phil says. “Try to have as little bare soil as possible and consider using a gravel mulch, which will provide lots of nooks and crannies for mini-beasts. It may even be possible to incorporate a small pond [as in this front garden, pictured].”
“Water is a magnet for wildlife,” Terrey agrees. “Including a bird bath can provide a natural focal point to attract birds and other wildlife. Positioning it close to a hedge or trees can further increase the appeal, as birds are more likely to use it if there’s cover nearby. The same goes for bird feeders, which are another good front garden addition.”
More: 12 Ways to Create a Wildlife Haven in a Small Garden
“If possible, include a range of different plants that have flowers attractive to pollinators, or evergreen leaves that will provide shelter for birds and insects,” Phil says. “Try to have as little bare soil as possible and consider using a gravel mulch, which will provide lots of nooks and crannies for mini-beasts. It may even be possible to incorporate a small pond [as in this front garden, pictured].”
“Water is a magnet for wildlife,” Terrey agrees. “Including a bird bath can provide a natural focal point to attract birds and other wildlife. Positioning it close to a hedge or trees can further increase the appeal, as birds are more likely to use it if there’s cover nearby. The same goes for bird feeders, which are another good front garden addition.”
More: 12 Ways to Create a Wildlife Haven in a Small Garden
Do I need space for a car?
“Providing space for cars without them dominating or compromising the property’s front garden is a challenge designers frequently face,” Terrey says.
“If you’re having hard landscaping, drainage is very important,” Phil adds, advising that any hardstanding is designed so run-off doesn’t go into the public drain. Building Regulations changed in 2008 and rainwater run-off from new or modified driveways over a certain size must now be contained within a property’s boundaries. “Homeowners need to apply for Planning Permission if the new driveway is larger than 5 sq m, is not permeable, and allows water to drain off into the road,” Simon says.
As such, a permeable surface is often desirable. “If the ground is relatively level, gravel is often the most cost-effective surface [for cars],” Terrey says, “but attention should be given to creating good edges and borders to contain it.”
“If you opt for a material that isn’t permeable, then run-off water should be directed into planting beds or soakaways,” Simon says.
Terrey suggests another car-relevant idea. “Consider future-proofing your parking space with the provision of an electrical charging point,” she says.
“Providing space for cars without them dominating or compromising the property’s front garden is a challenge designers frequently face,” Terrey says.
“If you’re having hard landscaping, drainage is very important,” Phil adds, advising that any hardstanding is designed so run-off doesn’t go into the public drain. Building Regulations changed in 2008 and rainwater run-off from new or modified driveways over a certain size must now be contained within a property’s boundaries. “Homeowners need to apply for Planning Permission if the new driveway is larger than 5 sq m, is not permeable, and allows water to drain off into the road,” Simon says.
As such, a permeable surface is often desirable. “If the ground is relatively level, gravel is often the most cost-effective surface [for cars],” Terrey says, “but attention should be given to creating good edges and borders to contain it.”
“If you opt for a material that isn’t permeable, then run-off water should be directed into planting beds or soakaways,” Simon says.
Terrey suggests another car-relevant idea. “Consider future-proofing your parking space with the provision of an electrical charging point,” she says.
Which materials and colours should I pick?
“There are no hard and fast rules, but I try to keep the number of different hard landscaping materials in a scheme to three or less, where all the materials work in harmony,” Simon says.
Phil adds that materials should tie in with the colour of the house. Coordination with the back garden may also be a consideration. “That doesn’t mean colours have to be the same, but they should be complementary. Sometimes, it might be good to match the materials used in neighbouring gardens, particularly where houses are of a similar architectural style.”
In conservation areas, it may be necessary to obtain advice from the local planning authority to ensure materials used are in keeping with the character of the neighbourhood.
“There are no hard and fast rules, but I try to keep the number of different hard landscaping materials in a scheme to three or less, where all the materials work in harmony,” Simon says.
Phil adds that materials should tie in with the colour of the house. Coordination with the back garden may also be a consideration. “That doesn’t mean colours have to be the same, but they should be complementary. Sometimes, it might be good to match the materials used in neighbouring gardens, particularly where houses are of a similar architectural style.”
In conservation areas, it may be necessary to obtain advice from the local planning authority to ensure materials used are in keeping with the character of the neighbourhood.
What about privacy?
What does this mean to you in relation to your front garden? Do you want to stop passers-by peering into your living room, or prevent them from seeing you and your family using the space? Everyone will have their own preferences.
“An obvious way of achieving privacy is by having a hedge or fence at the boundary to prevent passers-by seeing in,” Phil says. “However, this can also mean light is excluded from the garden or even from the house. Hedges and fences can also mean intruders are not visible to passers-by.” He suggests that a well-positioned tree or large shrub could provide enough privacy to people in the house without these downsides.
“Direct paths from pavement to front door can be rerouted to avoid casual passers-by gaining a clear view into your home,” Terrey suggests.
In terms of spending time in your front garden, Terrey points out that an afternoon of vigorous pruning with the radio blaring out might not be as enjoyable out the front as it would be in a secluded back garden. In which case, consider how much upkeep your choices will require.
What does this mean to you in relation to your front garden? Do you want to stop passers-by peering into your living room, or prevent them from seeing you and your family using the space? Everyone will have their own preferences.
“An obvious way of achieving privacy is by having a hedge or fence at the boundary to prevent passers-by seeing in,” Phil says. “However, this can also mean light is excluded from the garden or even from the house. Hedges and fences can also mean intruders are not visible to passers-by.” He suggests that a well-positioned tree or large shrub could provide enough privacy to people in the house without these downsides.
“Direct paths from pavement to front door can be rerouted to avoid casual passers-by gaining a clear view into your home,” Terrey suggests.
In terms of spending time in your front garden, Terrey points out that an afternoon of vigorous pruning with the radio blaring out might not be as enjoyable out the front as it would be in a secluded back garden. In which case, consider how much upkeep your choices will require.
Will I need to accommodate bins?
“Wheelie bins are a necessary evil in many of our front gardens,” Simon says. “If you have the space, try hiding them behind an evergreen hedge or tall planting – or create a screen from trellis panels, on which you could grow a climber.”
Terrey adds that they can be contained within a simple slatted timber housing to blend them into a scheme. “Planting can further help to soften the structure.”
Alternatively, you could buy a ready-made bin store. “But be aware they can be quite a bit bigger than your one or two wheelie bins,” Simon says, “so can attract even more attention.”
If this is your choice, Phil suggests positioning it so you look at it sideways on from the road. “In this way, it doesn’t become a feature as you look towards the house. Or locate it behind the front wall, fence or hedge, so you see over the top of it into the garden.” He suggests you could also give it a green roof, so the structure becomes part of your planting scheme.
“The other solution is to create something nice to look at in another corner of the front garden,” Simon suggests. “So the eye is drawn away from the ugly bins to some colourful planting or a beautiful multi-stemmed tree.”
“Wheelie bins are a necessary evil in many of our front gardens,” Simon says. “If you have the space, try hiding them behind an evergreen hedge or tall planting – or create a screen from trellis panels, on which you could grow a climber.”
Terrey adds that they can be contained within a simple slatted timber housing to blend them into a scheme. “Planting can further help to soften the structure.”
Alternatively, you could buy a ready-made bin store. “But be aware they can be quite a bit bigger than your one or two wheelie bins,” Simon says, “so can attract even more attention.”
If this is your choice, Phil suggests positioning it so you look at it sideways on from the road. “In this way, it doesn’t become a feature as you look towards the house. Or locate it behind the front wall, fence or hedge, so you see over the top of it into the garden.” He suggests you could also give it a green roof, so the structure becomes part of your planting scheme.
“The other solution is to create something nice to look at in another corner of the front garden,” Simon suggests. “So the eye is drawn away from the ugly bins to some colourful planting or a beautiful multi-stemmed tree.”
Would space to wash a dog be useful?
“If you are forever cleaning up muddy canine footprints from your hallway carpet after your morning dog walk,” Simon says, “why not build a doggy foot wash in your front garden?”
“If you are forever cleaning up muddy canine footprints from your hallway carpet after your morning dog walk,” Simon says, “why not build a doggy foot wash in your front garden?”
“However many practical considerations need to be met,” Terrey concludes, “one important aim not to lose sight of is that the space needs to feel like a garden. Unlike back gardens, we pass through our front gardens every time we leave or return to our homes, so they should feel welcoming and have the potential to provide as much pleasure and interest.”
Tell us…
Were these suggestions useful? What would be on your must-have list for a front garden design? Let us know in the Comments.
Tell us…
Were these suggestions useful? What would be on your must-have list for a front garden design? Let us know in the Comments.
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“Before getting carried away with planting or paving ideas, be clear what the space will be used for,” Simon Orchard says. “Parking? Bin storage? A bike shed? Screening for privacy? Providing a nice view from indoors? Impressing passers-by? Only then can you start thinking about how it will all fit together.”
Phil Hirst agrees. “The choice between the amount of paving and the amount of lawn or planting you have is often dictated by practical considerations,” he says. “How many vehicles need to be parked on the drive and, if you’re on a busy road, do you need to be able to turn, so you can drive in and out.”
This isn’t to say that if your front garden is used for parking, it can’t also include some plants. “A front garden always looks better with at least some planting, even if it’s in containers,” Phil says. He also suggests you might want to think about adding low-growing and shade-tolerant planting up the middle, where car wheels won’t run over it.