I've had a look at free offerings for floor planning software. It depends on the level you want to go to. Sweethome3D http://www.sweethome3d.com/ is truly free because it's open source (no fees if you want to draw more than one plan etc). I've found I can get reasonably detailed with it from layout perspective but I doubt it would be good enough for a drawings for a building permit (although I'm not certain of this). As a graphic designer you'll have an affinity for graphics software. If you want to be able to draw more detailed drawings Id take the time to learn Sketchup. I know some architects use this as their software of choice. I'm definitely with you @Jason Carter - the only way to really control your budget is to plan ahead and choose and price everything that you can think of before you break ground. Otherwise you're in a situation where you have to make quick compromises during the build which leads to mistakes etc. In my work we use requirements tracking tools. I think it would be really helpful to communicate to the contractors exactly what is going to go on in the room - why the extra outlets are there and in the position they're in. That way they have a deeper understanding of why the specs are the way they are and they don't make decisions that detract from the design - they might even come up with suggestions that support the ideas behind the designs.

Here is a "stone look" Armstrong product linoleum that will not compete with all the color of backsplash. It is slightly darker than the cabinets which will ground the room nicely. Agree that you probably don't need more tile lines.

Hi snan - to address your questions: 1 - yes, the lamps work very well. With regard to the height of the larger lamps: do you know how high they would be? If the bottom of the lampshade is even with the top of the pillows that should work. If they are taller than that I think you will be okay with the smaller lamps. Look back again at some of the pictures above to see what I mean. The thing that will look odd would be if the top of the lamps were taller than your headboard. The idea is that when you are in bed reading a book that you want the light to be able to reflect down. As far as the lampshade size goes on the smaller lamps I'm thinking the shorter ones since they don't seem to drop down as far as the larger ones. 2 & 3-Definitely chair by the mirrored bedside locker with one white locker on the other side. Without question. The chair to the left of the bed gave the room life. Use the extra white one in a closet or another room. You don't want to overcrowd your room when you are going for a tranquil setting. 4-Absolutely okay to have bedside tables that don't match and look good in the room. Whether or not you like that is a personal preference though. I would only put the mirrored one next to the bed though if you have the chair next to it. It's how they play off each other that makes it work. If you don't keep the chair next to the bed then I would use both white tables beside the bed. It is also fine that the pictures are off-centre to the wall as long as they are centered to the bed. :)

Melissa, when I said footboard, I meant this. It has a portion of the bed that extends beyond the mattress edge. You posted a bed that had something at the foot section of the bed. By platform, I mean a bed that has a hard area and only a mattress on it. Like this. It does not extend beyond the edge of the mattress, but does not have a box spring. It is also lower to the ground. The picture you posted was a high profile bed and box spring. It was not on a typical bed frame. A standard bed frame, used with box spring and mattress looks like this. Virtually invisible and does not extend out beyond the mattress/box spring set. That being said, I'd recommend you get a headboard that is not too big for your space. Neither in height or depth (distance from the wall). I would also not get a mattress frame that extends beyond the size of the mattress. Sorry to have not been clear before.