always_ot

Under cupbard LED lighting strips

always ot
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago

We have a galley style kitchen (old pic attached), with continuous cabinets 2.73m long down one side, and approx 2m long down other side (split across 3 separate cabinets) with cooker/cooker hood in between.

We used to have 9 x 20w halogen spot lights, that never really worked (often came loose, then started buzzing), and have been off for the past few years. This makes the kitchen dark, especially at the sink/washing up end.

I now want to fit LED under cupboard lighting, and am considering LED linkable stiplights (fixed kind, not flexible sticky tape), instead of spots.

My questions, in no particular order:

- When fitting strips, is it expected to run strips the entire length of all available cabinets, or should there be gaps in between (like with spots)?

- To fill all available space under the cabinets, would take 57-61W of LED (cool white) lighting. Is this likely to be too much?

- Are LED linkable stiplights a good idea for the kitchen below?



Comments (6)

  • cavgirl
    3 years ago

    Depending on your sockets, I’d have two runs of strips—assuming you mean the kind with the sticky tape back?—under each run of wall cupboard. If you already had lighting you may be able to wire them in; when I used them in my last house I used the fan plug, which was never used otherwise. I found them a very flexible and affordable method of installing under cupboard lighting. They run cold so there’s no risk of them overheating, and you can buy them in a range of colour options. Remember too that you can trim to suit the length you need.

  • always ot
    Original Author
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Sorry, I’ve edited original post to make clearer.


    I meant the fixed type that would be wired into the existing lighting (so both sides would be operated by the existing switch), not the flexible, sticky back type powered by a plug.

  • PRO
    Dual Designs
    3 years ago

    Hi, The LED lighting strips you refer to with the sticky back, that you don't want are actually very good, but do need to have an aluminium ducting profile, not just to stick on the underside of the unit. These you can run the whole length if you wish or break up, depending where your power supplies are located. They are great for so many different uses. Shown with milky profile strip.

    Hope that helps.


  • always ot
    Original Author
    3 years ago

    I have nothing against the tape strips really, other than the fact that due to our kitchen layout I’d need two separate sets, which would need to be operated independently.


    With the fixed light strips I can (I think) wire into old under cupboard wiring, to be operated from an existing switch on the wall.


    They‘re brighter too, though am not sure if they would be too bright, which is one of the reasons for my post.

  • Phil Scott
    3 years ago

    You can wire LED tape strips into any electrical supply. You just need to use an appropriate transformer to convert the AC mains into 12/24V DC which is what LED tape strips take.

    And then run the strips in parallel or series to get them both operated by the same switch.

    I’m not a qualified electrician in any way so if you’re not sure I would suggest getting an electrician to do the work.

  • always ot
    Original Author
    3 years ago

    Everyone really seems to be "pro" tape strips!


    When I've costed it up, it's roughly the same to do both sides with LED linkable striplights, as is to do tape ones (after factoring in extra drivers and aluminium ducting profiles etc).


    Given that the LED linkable stiplights put out loads more light (35W for the 2.7m cabinets) vs tape lights which seem to be 10-15W over 5m (so approx half that for my cabinets), why would I want to go with tape?


    Are there any advantages of tape over striplights (other than being able to fix it flexibly round bends)?

Ireland
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