Advice on layout for 1930s kitchen/diner/snug extension.

3 years ago

We are starting a small extension of our 1930s detached house in the new year. We have approved plans, builder etc and we are now at the stage of planning/ordering our kitchen.

So far we have seen Wren and Magnet and got plans from both although we are seriously considering DIY kitchens. I prefer the Wren layout but am not feeling inspired by either really and can't quite put my finger on why. Any thoughts/comments will be gratefully received! There may be something obvious I am just not seeing.

I have attached the layout of the new kitchen/diner/snug. Just to note that the island is showing at a right angle to the garden in the plan as it was initially planned to incorporate a supporting post. That is now gone thanks to more beams, which allows us a bit more flexibility layout wise. In order to have a better view of the garden it seemed to make more sense to have the island parallel to the garden.

Plan.

The Wren plan is the first pic below (apart from the greater symmetry they were able to include a walk in larder corner cupboard for our budget which Magnet couldn't.) Only one view of this plan as they sent us duplicate shots of the same perspective :-s The flooring is likely to be mid-tone engineered oak herringbone but TBC. Also not wedded to the colour, maybe that is what is putting me off. It feels quite dark.

I don't know if it feels somehow cramped considering the footprint of the new space.

Magnet view 1

Magnet view 2

Magnet view 3 (ignore the TV that is not what we would put there)

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Comments (5)

CWD
3 years ago
First thing I noticed is the hob and vent hood is in a different position than on the architect drawings. It would be better where the architect has drawn it as it will be able to vent directly outside. I think both look like fairly standard uninspired kitchens and you are probably looking for something more 'wow'. Find some pictures of kitchens you love and compare them to the space you have. You have plenty of space to create your dream kitchen. For me, I'd have full wall of tall cabinets where the cooktop/vent is (on the wall that backs onto the living room) and then have the other run of cabinets more open so that the kitchen feels wider. The island could go either way - I think I prefer it as on the architects plans, although maybe a bit closer to the kitchen wall cabinets (looks like a lot of space, maybe that was due to the pillar though). Sink on island (facing the utility), hob behind on that wall with space on either side of hob. Integrate fridge/freezer if possible to hide it behind cabinet doors. Also, write a list of everything you own and go through each cabinet to figure out where you'd put things to help figure out how many cabinets you actually need. If you can get away with no uppers either side of hob, then keep that space free for art (or shelves if you don't mind dusting). We have used DIY Kitchens and the quality is great, service is great and they'll do a sense-check of your order to make sure you've ordered all the random bits that you don't think about normally, if you send them your plan and measurements. So much cheaper than other big box stores too.
Julia thanked CWD
Julia
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Thanks for your comments. Will have a more detailed look when my 3yo isn't demanding my attention but lots of food for thought. The integrated fridge/freezer ship has sailed I'm afraid as we have bought a US style FF already but am not massively bothered by that to be honest. Glad to hear you were happy with DIY kitchens, I have generally seen good feedback. Just a shame we are over 3 hours away from their showroom (if we weren't about to be locked down anyway!)
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Hiya, I agree about the extra bits on the back. I would remove them including the dining room bay but retain the existing external kitchen wall and square it off with the dining room, knocking through to make a kitchen diner. I'll paste my drawing in below. - the dimensions made me think you could create a loo and even fit a shower in the kitchen space but looking again at the photos make me doubt the shower idea! - retaining the kitchen windows and back door would reduce costs - the new downstairs loo area could have a sliding door that remained open when not in use so that the light from that window reached further in - you could fit a roof light above the utility space to draw more light into the remaining kitchen area - it would be tempting to fit bi-fold doors to the new dining room opening but I would research 1930s patio doors in case you could find some more in keeping with the rest of the house - with the same goal in mind, could bricks be reused for the new section of wall required to square off the utility area and dining room? You'd need advice on the dining and kitchen doors area, e.g, a pillar might be required (which could be built into the kitchen design?) so I've just left them as is. I hope this is helpful.
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Ellie
3 years ago
I haven't looked at the plan in detail but my first thought is that when sitting on the stools at the island you are facing a wall /extractor fan. And behind you is lovely big doors with no doubt a nice view of the garden. That would be a big thing for me, I'd want to be able to sit at the island and look outside. I'd consider turning the island.
Julia thanked Ellie
Ellie
3 years ago
And I wouldn't have a sink taking centre stage of the island. I'd not have the sink on it it at all. Sinks are for cleaning stuff thats dirty - I would have it as far away as possible!

And I would also integrate the fridge freezer, as I find the big ones just mess up what could be a lovely looking kitchen.

And I second DIY kitchens, mine was bought online by me, and installed by my builder
PRO
Room-by-Room (UK) Ltd
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Hi,

If i may I would like to ask about the extension first:

Why are you not building over the boundary with your neighbour. This would allow you to build the extension in line with the existing party wall. As you are building within 3M of the neighbours property you still need a party wall agreement. Judging by the single roof light can I assume the roof is pitched from existing rear wall to new rear extension wall.

If the side wall moved over then it would help to make the shape of the room more uniformed. The return nib could also be removed with the inclusion of a post of approx size 90mm x 90mm.

Will the extension roof be vaulted or will the existing ceiling run through into the extension?

Will the new support beams be inserted into the ceiling void or will they sit down under the ceiling?

It looks to me as though the brushes steel cooker hood does not suit either of the kitchen styles. The separation of the hood also breaks up the flow of the wall units which I find a bit distracting.

The island seating seems to be facing the wrong direction especially as you have removed the posts now. If I was designing the kitchen I would want the space to work for me. Currently there seems to be a lot of circulation space which could be better managed with a smarter kitchen layout. I would look at the island and write down what I want it to bring to the kitchen. Is is a focal point, where will my guests be looking from the stools, will I be cooking or prepping food on the island, how does the kitchen triangle rule work with this layout. It may be worth considering removing all of the kitchen units on the wall adjacent to the lounge and moving the island up by 600mm. Then I would looking at the position of the kitchen units on the other wall and consider only having only wall and floor units to stylise the design. The american fridge would need to be found a space.

Not much help but something to chew on.
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Advice on layout for 1930s kitchen/diner/snug extension.

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CWD

Julia
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Advice on layout for 1930s kitchen/diner/snug extension.

Comments (5)

CWD

JuliaOriginal Author

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Ellie

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