Looking for alternative to wood cladding cost effective

cadburya

5 years ago

Hello all !

Inwonder if anyone here can offer advice for an cost effective alternative to external wood cladding ?? Many thanks

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Need help on flooring!
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You should have a professional installer in your area take a look at your home so you can discuss what end result you are wanting. You may need to use an engineered wood. This is still an all wood product and is much more dimensionally stable than solid wood. This is a huge advantage if you are in an older home or in the midwest where humidity levels can drastically change from season to season. A solid wood will cup or curl if humidity and moisture levels are not managed. Your installer should do a moisture test before installation to make sure the installation does not fail. All warranties will be voided if this step is not taken. Also, your transitions will need to be considered. Is the new wood floor going to butt up to tile, carpet, or vinyl? The height difference in the two products will need to be taken into consideration. You will have a greater selection of thicknesses in the engineered woods. Engineered wood should be several plys, all wood. If you choose a solid wood, the hand scraped versions are fantastic for a high traffic area with children. Hickory, Red Oak, most Brazilian Species, and even Bamboo are hard enough to take everyday traffic and still look terrific. Good luck!
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These walls look too plain beside Red Brick wall, any ideas please?
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I agree deepen the color, don't change it and yes art art art! maybe lessen the presence of the brick with the earlier suggestion of the metal cogs its and use traditional artwork pics/nature/paintings on the painted wall. I also like the idea to paint the part of the wall that juts out in a darker shade of the same color. Now you have lots to consider and lots to dismiss as well. Good luck and have fun
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Floors
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Kitchen's suffer from extreme humidity variation, so you should fully adhere the solid or engineered flooring to avoid a bowing/warping floor in a few months time However, here's another viable option; luxury vinyl tiles (LVT). Generally, LVTs are 2.5mm thick, made from 100% pvc (therefore waterproof), come with a thick polyurethane wear layer that normally is backed up with a manufacturers warranty, with a wood or stone effect finish. LVTs are great with underfloor heating and unlike ceramics, they don't break when heavy objects are dropped on them and unlike wooden floors, once laid, LVTs need no further maintenance other than regular vacuuming and washing. LVTs are almost indestructible! There are many options available but us Flooring Gurus recommend going for a recognised brand. The whole idea about an LVT is for it to look authentic. They need to genuinely look like the wood or stone flooring they are mimicking. Cheap alternatives, when installed, look ... well ... awful! Try looking at Polyflor's Colonia and Camaro. We sell these products online at www.flooringmegastore.co.uk and if you made contact with us, we'd be happy to despatch a few free of charge samples to you, plus a glossy catalogue, to help you research the products a bit more. We're the Flooring Gurus!
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Need some ideas for my bathroom
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East Kent Eco - again thank you for your input. As a pro I wonder if you could offer your thoughts on a couple of scenarios 1 - Leave bath where it is - what would be involved in moving the shower 4-6 inches to the centre of the bath? I did consider the P shaped bath and will consider your suggestion for a shorter bath to allow room for the toilet, but I currently had to put in a door stop to protect the shower door from the entrance door handle and I would be concerned about a rounded door being even closer. If I left the bath where it is I have a couple of options, turning the toilet and cistern 90 degrees to the adjoining wall - see above for the considerations there, or I have also considered switching the toilet and sink. I would put the sink facing the wall where the cistern currently is have a large-ish vanity from the base of the bath to the wall, and the if the toilet was where the sink is it would not interfere with the doors for the hot press as the seat would be considerably lower than the sink is currently thus giving me the better access I want. In this scenario the main issue for me would be the toilet would be facing the entrance door, a bit unsightly but if it gave me the space I want I think I could live with the compromise. 2 - A bit more involved, but I have also considered moving the bath sideways along the short length of the room, shower end over the space where the cistern is currently and moving the sink and toilet to the space where the bath is currently. I think this would allow me room for a vanity and maybe also a tall storage cupboard for the towels and linens currently in the hot press. The obvious concern with this is the shower spray in the direction of the hot press, if I got the storage I needed elsewhere in the bathroom I wouldn't be concerned about those getting wet, but would want to ensure I don't end up with a leak over the stairs. Access would also be an issue if repairs were required for the shower pump or the hot water system. You would have to step into the bath to gain access. Is there a solution to waterproof the cupboard?
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Looking for alternative to wood cladding cost effective

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