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Renovating DIY Design Dilemma

how to seal bare plaster if NOT painting

5 years ago

I have weirdly fallen for my newly plastered walls/ceiling which are that kind of pale peachy cement colour. It seems to glow in my new extension (south facing) even when there is no sun and I think it might work with our semi industrial style in some parts of the room.

Ideally I would leave the ceiling and maybe the dining room wall but paint the kitchen one perhaps (or some of it - not sure yet!)
BUT
I’ve spend ages looking online for something to put on it that would stop the dust (when you touch it) and also that I could paint over in the future?

When I google plaster sealer, it just shows about doing a wash of paint. I don’t want to paint it the same colour (impossible to replicate the varied patchy tones in it!) and pva is not an option.

Any solutions out there?? (Ps colour is lighter than on the image of the windows)

- only issue is that you can still see the outline of some of the boards so it has dark lines running down.

Am I stupid to want to keep some of the raw plaster?

Featured Answer

Ribena Drinker

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

Dare I add a note of caution on this?

Whilst you love it and appreciate the aesthetics of it, with it's gentle colour and mottled hues, others may just look and see unfinished, unpainted, plastered walls and although I'm an advocate for having houses looking as you want them, not for other people, I would question if that was truly the impression that you wanted the room to make?

I would further say that at the moment, this is a big step forward with your development. Up until this point the extension has just been a building site, it is now looking like a proper room and perhaps you're a little in love with just having the wall finally plastered, looking like a proper wall and even if the plaster had been a totally different colour, you'd still be in love with it.

I'd hazard a guess that it will be a lot harder to paint once the kitchen and flooring are in than now - especially the ceiling, so I would think carefully about this if I were in your position.

Also if you were to have any work done, even moving a picture hook, you wont be able to just fill it and cover it up with a coat of paint, you'd have to get that area re-plastered and then you couldn't guarantee the finish would match and the repair wouldn't show.

Do you really want the room to look unfinished forever? And would it match with the style of the rest of the house?

Comments (54)

Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
I meant it is ducted and not recirculating so there shouldn’t be much dirt/grease as it should all get sucked up
Danielle H
5 years ago
Decorators varnish?

https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polyvine-decorators-varnish-dead-flat-1-litre-casdvdf1l
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks @ Danielle. I might get some and test it behind the kitchen units to see if it changes the colour
Danielle H
5 years ago
I used it on my emulsion and it didn't change it at all, even to touch you can barely tell. It's a dream to wipe down though!

You can buy much smaller pots if you want to test it.
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
Brill, thank you
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
@Ribena, stop being so sensible ;0) ha ha.
I do normally hate bare plaster on every room I’ve had done except this one.
See your point about patching in things though.

Do you think if I left the ceiling raw and painted the other walls that it would still look like an unpainted ceiling?
kikiamack
5 years ago
Sorry, another word of caution from me as well. We were convinced when we moved into a new build 20 years ago that the ceiling didn’t need painting, it would dry and stay white. Fast forward a few years and the shower above had leaked and the ceiling needed to be painted. The ceiling had kind of desiccated and painting it was a complete nightmare with bits of crumbly powder mixing with the paint. That was Artex and I don’t know how the composition is different to plaster, but never again!
Ribena Drinker
5 years ago
Not like me to be sensible....... :-D

Sorry - yep, I do think the ceiling will just look unpainted. :-/

I hate to put a downer on folks' plans and ideas, but personally, I think you'll be storing up a heap of heartache going down that route.
minnie101
5 years ago
Tani, I've looked at this Houzz tour again and noticed they have painted ceilings so that may be a consideration with a more finished look although that's what you specifically wanted to avoid and you'd need to be careful re the walls although a small roller would help. It is a very good point though re hanging art and I have also noticed most of theirs is propped, which may or not be a style choice!

i know it's not a look for everyone but it adds so much texture and warmth, works with the aesthetic plus is unique (or nearly!). I'm just wondering if you will regret it if you paint all over it... Yours looks unfinished now as you've got basically got an empty shell, it definitely doesn't look unfinished to me in this house.

I will shut up now, I think I have an unhealthy obsession with textured walls and the colour of setting plaster! I think Danielle's dead flat polyvine is what I'd test too. Funnily enough, there was another post this week wanting to seal and retain the plaster! They did ask what varnish they'd used but they're yet to respond, it would also be interesting to see how its fared practically 2 years on

https://www.houzz.co.uk/magazine/houzz-tour-a-converted-victorian-dairy-with-a-magical-courtyard-stsetivw-vs~115062014
User
5 years ago
I do like the look in the feature minnie101 posted, but that does have a painted ceiling. I would probably paint the ceiling - it'll immediately lift the space. Then perhaps live with plastered walls for a while and see how you feel. Isn't there a paint colour called setting plaster by farrow and ball? Would that give you the look you want and avoid the issues that others have mentioned?
User
5 years ago
Here, found a picture of setting plaster. Looks good. I also like their new colour, sulking room pink.
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
@Minnie - I know. I’ve started painting the ceiling and the kitchen end walls as they won’t be kept in the plaster colour as need to be more durable (but I wanted either brick or a darker wall this side anyway)

I might keep the unpainted plaster on the dining room side for now though and try that sealer once all the kitchen has been moved over as it’s being stored that side.

I’d even though about adding some gold leaf to give it a marbled effect! Would work if the dining table was that end with lots of hanging plants and wood. Not sure if we end up putting the sofa though so will wait and see :0)

Ps hating the white paint already! LOL. Keep telling myself it’s only a mist coat and I can always paint it a different colour once the kitchen is in and I can see what is going to work ;0)
minnie101
5 years ago
Oh no, it's not good that you hate it! Well "just" do the ceiling and the kitchen wall for now where the tiles/bricks will go and leave the rest until you've got the kitchen and some furniture in
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
I think it’s mostly because it’s blinding, ha ha. Having to wear sunglasses whilst I’m painting LOL
minnie101
5 years ago
Hi Tani, was just wondering how the kitchen installation is going?
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
Hi! Well the bare bones are in - managed to get an electrician to come this avo to hopefully prep the appliance sockets. Worktop has been templated yesterday so should be another week or so before it gets installed (eek)
We have been saving a bottle of Moët for when it goes on :0) he he.
Will take a pic later!
minnie101
5 years ago
That's good, are you loving it? Glad you managed to find an electrician. Lol, you need more than a bottle after this wait!
Tani H-S
Original Author
5 years ago
Ha ha, I know!!

The colour is not quite off black ie it looks blue in the sun and not just dark grey as I wanted, but it’s still nice. Just worried it will clash with the worktop in certain lights but it kind of past really caring now, LOL.
. Just a few manufacturing issues im waiting for the kitchen designer to come and look at which hopefully they can correct (paint comes off the edges when rubbed!!!) and I will be happier.
minnie101
5 years ago
That's annoying but at least you like it and I'm sure it won't clash.

oh, that sounds a bit odd with the paint, I hope you get it sorted
Ninni Noo
5 years ago
You're not stupid liking plastered walls :) they are becoming relatively popular at the moment and can look quite stunning especially with your semi industrial look.
HU-614744273
3 years ago
Tani H-S, Did you find a good solution to this? We're hopinh to do the same thing. Its in our bathroom so there'll be a bit of humidity about just for extra complication! Would really appreciate your advice.
Tani H-S
Original Author
3 years ago
Hi, no I ended up painting it 😕
Jules Stevens
3 years ago
Hi Tani H-S - I also want to leave my plaster un-painted. Did you try the decorators varnish? Did it not work? Why did you end up painting? Cheers, Jules
Tani H-S
Original Author
3 years ago
Hi Jules

I just needed to get something on the wall before the rad got fitted so I wimped out and just stuck some white emulsion on it.
I still want to paint it at some point but it will be much harder with the radiator in the way now, doh!
HU-614744273
3 years ago
I ended up using a sealant called SBR on the plaster. hopefully it’ll do the job.
theprofessionalnester
3 years ago
HU-614744273 did you find the svr made the plaster shiny? We are doing the same in our kitchen and it’s a nightmare to work out what to do!
Karine Marie Bedrossian
3 years ago
Can I ask which plaster you used to get that lovely colour?
Andrew
3 years ago
https://www.houzz.co.uk/-vs~109295006 might have some ideas for 'raw' plaster. I saw it in a Riad in Marakech and thought it looked really good. It may need to be planned for from the outset though.
Emmanuel Tiberghien
3 years ago
I m trying the Polyvine varnish on raw plaster and even with three coats if you apply a damp cloth a stain appears. Anyone had success here with polyvine or another sealant?
caseyb
3 years ago
Oh, I do hope that others chime in here! Our plaster is just starting to go up. The plasterer is doing a lovely job, and I'd love to find out more (everything!) about what is possible. (The plasterer himself did not have any suggestions.) Months ago I'd considered leaving the plaster bare with just a clear finish, rather than painting, but I let our architect talk me out of it. Now I'm back to considering it, and of course now, it's urgent!

There is the question of whether to treat (or 'not treat') all surfaces the same, or whether perhaps the ceilings should be painted (for brightness), and/or the bathrooms (for moisture protection).

Then there is the question of whether any treatment that leaves the plaster looking raw could eventually be painted (without an enormous amount of prep work involving mineral spirits, etc), should it prove necessary (like, the space doesn't get enough light, and it ends up looking gloomy?).

And then there is the question of what products can be used, and to what effect. I think I've seen that some 'clear' products might be tinted to affect the color. (Our plaster is standard 'white', nothing fancy, and probably whatever the standard product is that is used in the US.) I wonder if any of these tinted products can be layered on over a truly clear finish. I've seen recommendations for clear poly coatings, and for beeswax, and beeswax mixed with other wax, or waterborne wax, and they all sound great, but I don't know if any of them allow for a change-of-mind regarding above-mentioned tinting, or actual painting. Almost all of the information I've found is in reference to Venetian plaster, and I'm not sure how it translates to the ordinary sort.
minnie101
3 years ago
From what I read ( from memory ) it can be treated in the same way.

In terms of Emmanuels post, I don’t think the dead flat is as robust so Polyvine recommend 2 coats of gloss or satin and then a final top coat of dead flat.

in terms of a polished plaster etc finish, these are the instructions I was given for tadelakt (but I have only done it once) and this will actually waterproof it so not sure you need each step. It didn’t change the colour Btw.

allow plaster etc to fully dry.

1 coat hydrocalce wax applied with microfibe cloth. Buff off with new microfibre cloth.

Apply 2nd coat of same and buff with electric buffer (One used for polishing cars with lambs wool bonnet)

Dry 12 hours.

2 coats of cera wax. Buff each coat with electric buffer.

dry 12 hours.

1 coat paraffin wax and buff with electric buffer.

Dry 12 hours
Andie
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
I know this post is old so my info is going to be far too late but can’t believe none of you have heard of this…use watered down wall paper paste. Its easy to put on..use a brush/roller, can also paint on ceiling It is transparent, cheap and idefinitely works! If nothing else this may help someone else
Katie Duke
2 years ago
Likewise I'm late to the party but having just used Polyvine dead flat decorators varnish on my newly plastered wall I thought I would report my findings. I used a paint brush to apply varnish over the whole wall (having given it a light sanding first - does need to be light, the plaster will likely be a very thin skim so you don't want to go all the way through). The varnish goes on lovely and dried really quickly. Resulting finish is beautiful, really smooth and silky feeling. No discernable change to the colour. I'm really pleased with results and would certainly recommend the Polyvine varnish.

Comment below refers to 2 coats satin or gloss with a final coat of dead flat - this info is on the Polyvine website. I'm chancing it with x2 coats of dead flat because it's a bedroom wall, opposite side to the door and unlikely to get bashed about or scuffed.

Finally just as an FYI I did a test on a bit of hidden wall. Normal emulsion will paint over the Polyvine if you change your mind in future, but I think it'll take several coats. So if using expensive paint might be worth doing a primer coat/s of plain white or undercoat to cover over the varnish and provide a proper surface for final paint to adhere to.
HU-683109905
2 years ago
Did you find a solution for this? I’m wanting to have a room in my home bare plaster but not sure what I can use to seal it.
Katie Duke
2 years ago
Hiya I responded earlier in the thread. Polyvine decorators varnish in dead flat mart is what you want. This will seal the plaster and stop it being dusty. It dries very matt and gives a very smooth finish. It's an excellent product https://www.polyvine.com/index.php/en/decorators-varnish
Katie Duke
2 years ago
Looks weird as it goes on (first pic) but dries to something completely uniform - sorry this is as much of a close up as I have.
Anna Mylam
2 years ago
Hello, I've just bought satin and dead flat polyvine ... planning to use it to paint onto a raw plaster wall in a shop i have been refurbishing... I am going to attempt 2 layers of the satin and then finish with 1 of the polyvine... does this sound right? and how is it best to apply; paintbrush / roller? any guidance would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Katie Duke
2 years ago
The first time I used Polyvine I used a paintbrush (maybe 2" sort of size). The second time I used one of those painting pads which was probably about 10cm or so wide. Both brush and pad worked fine. As a personal preference I would probably use the pad when I do my next project (protecting painted wall behind dining table). The pad gives more coverage per dip so I think probably works out a bit quicker. You don't want to saturate the pad just coat the ends of the fibres. I'm not sure how well a roller would work, I think it may end up a bit wasteful? Don't forget for your very first coat you can thin the PV dvown abit with a little water. Good luck! Show us your before and afters!
Anna Mylam
2 years ago
Amazing, thanks a lot for the very helpful feedback. Will keep you posted!
Katie Duke
2 years ago
Ah just thought of something else. It dries very quickly so I think it's best to work methodically from one edge of the wall/room, don't start in middle and work outwards! To ensure even coverage need to almost work in overlapping stripes top to bottom. In my experience the end result is very even and you shouldn't see brush marks once dry.
HU-323893513
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Hi @Katie Duke, when you say it dries to something completely uniform, do you mean that the brush strokes of the varnish dry away? Or that any directional marks in the plaster also go away? As ideally we'd keep the texture and directional markings of the plaster beneath.

Thanks for your help!
Katie Duke
2 years ago
Yes, the brush marks don't appear visible and the finish of the plaster itself (including directional marks etc) remain visible.

A word of caution though I have also used Polyvine over painted walls (flat matt paint and flat matt polyvine) and on the painted surface I do see more brush marks. It's not terrible but (to my eye at least) you can see the application marks. I used the polyvine to add extra protection on the wall going up the stairs which is always subject to scuffs and knocks. At first I just took the Polyvine half way up the wall but it was very obvious where it stopped. I ended up just doing the whole wall with the Polyvine nd that looks a lot better and you don't particularly notice a difference between the trated wall and the other untreated ones. evident where it stopped and t
querqubus
last year
Hello, thank you for this thread. I had the hallway ceiling reskimmed a few years back and loved the look of unfinished plaster so much I left it there. Unsealed, but it was a ceiling. I am now doing an extension and renovation and I am planning to leave some feature walls in bare plaster, but adding pigments to change it’s colour, as I wouldn’t want pink walls everywhere. So far I have done some colour tests with titanium white (which mixed with the pink of the gypsum gives a warm creamy white) and yellow ochre. I will keep you posted on final results but I am super excited about it!
R R
3 months ago
Based on this thread, we used two to three coats of Polyvine dead flat on bare plaster on the ceiling; and two coats of satin + 1 of dead flat on the wall. Used a 6'' brush for the ceiling, it wasn't too drippy, which was good. With the satin, the paintbrush marks are definitely more noticeable, so would use a lighter coat in the future. But really happy with the end result. Not the best pic, but you can see the effect on the ceiling --
Rachel Roberts
2 months ago
Hi all. We’re soon to attempt leaving raw plaster walls in the new kitchen and living space/dining area. Will follow the above application tips but I was also wondering if people could advise how well the sealed raw walls have stood up in high use areas? Thanks!
Anna Mylam
2 months ago
Anna Mylam
2 months ago
Used in front of a busy restaurant space - holding up really well almost 2 years on and lovely and smooth to touch
Rachel Roberts
2 months ago
Oh brilliant! Thanks for sharing the pics too as it’s great to see what it looks like. I’d been considering painting the ceiling or some other walls white and thus helps me make a decision. 😊
Anna Mylam
2 months ago
Glad it's helped, I was and still am really pleased with how it turned out (copy effective too). If you see my comment above (made many months ago) in terms of number of coats etc, that it what I followed. And applied using a roller - good luck!!Glad it's helped, I was and still am really pleased with how it turned out. If you see my comment above (made many months ago) in terms of number of coats etc, that it what I followed. And applied with a roeller - good luck!

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